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Escapism With Birds

@yuutfa / yuutfa.tumblr.com

18+ / A person that writes and draws sometimes. / Expect writing and art resources, cute things, and a butt ton of Caster. Thank you for visiting and have a good day! Art Tag / Writing Tag / Creation Blog / What the heck is Caster?
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pixelghosts

I’ve been getting a lot of gross messages lately and they all complain about my cosplays just because of my race. Instead of taking it to heart, I put together some pictures of some of my favorite cosplays that I’ve done. I’m not cosplaying for “accuracy,” I’m doing it because it fun and I enjoy it. And even if I was doing it for said accuracy, my being black doesn’t hold me back from that. I’ll never understand people’s need to “critique” someone else but base it on a factor that they cannot change. That goes for skin color, race, body type whatever! Next time any of you want to message giving your opinion on the way someone looks naturally, shut your mouth! :) 💕

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mmarkcohenn

PSA

IF YOU ARE COSPLAYING A DISNEY PRINCESS AND YOU ARE GOING SOMEWHERE WHERE THERE ARE GOING TO BE KIDS THAT WILL COME UP TO TALK TO YOU

YOU!!!! CAN!!!! NOT!!!! BE!!!! ANTI!!!! SOCIAL!!!! TO!!!! THEM!!!!

FOR REAL, I JUST WATCHED A VIDEO OF A GIRL DRESSING UP AS ANNA AND SHE WENT TO HER LOCAL MALL

SHE WENT INTO THE DISNEY STORE

WHEN A LITTLE GIRL CAME UP TO HER AND TRIED TO TALK TO HER

THE COSPLAYER WALKED AWAY 

AND LOOKED AT THE LITTLE GIRL LIKE SHE WAS NUTS

THAT IS HORRIBLE

I USED TO DRESS UP AS SNOW WHITE FOR CHARITY EVENTS WITH CHILDREN

I CANNOT TELL YOU HOW AWKWARD IT WAS WHEN OUR ELSA DID NOT TALK TO CHILDREN

SHE WAS NOT INTERESTED IN TALKING OR BEING AROUND THE KIDS AND THAT MAKES THE KIDS UNCOMFORTABLE!!!

IF YOU ARE COSPLAYING A CHARACTER THAT IS POPULAR AMONG CHILDREN, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE BE NICE TO KIDS

TO THEM, THEY ARE ACTUALLY MEETING THIS CHARACTER THAT THEY LOVE OR KNOW

IT IS UP TO YOU TO NOT BE A DICK

You also gotta know that if you’re going somewhere where there will be children and you’re in a costume even slightly similar to a Disney character they will think you are that character. 

 My hair is dyed white and at last year’s Ren Fest I was dressed as a water nymph. So i was in all blue, with glittery blue heeled boots on. Personally, I would have never thought that I looked like Elsa. I had leggings on, not a dress. And no ice themed anything. But that didn’t stop the sweetest little princess from asking me if I was Elsa. 

 I’ll admit that I was thrown for a loop, since I thought I was a pretty convincing mermaid on land with my scale print leggings. But I’m not a dick so I quickly recovered and said I was her cousin. Kids are more than happy to accept that and she smiled then shyly ran back to her mom to tell her she met Elsa’s cousin. 

If you’re in a glittery costume of any sort, in a place where children will be, be prepared to be nice to them. Otherwise you’re just a jerk. No one likes jerks.

Don’t be a dick.

Seriously. If I go anywhere in ANY costume, no matter if I’m a princess, hero, or villain, I’m nice to the kids. They just wanna play!

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rah-bop

Bird Costume Tutorial Masterpost

Here are a collection of tutorials explaining how I made my Kenku Costume. If you have more questions please check my Kenku Costume FAQ!

This costume is my Dungeons and Dragons character, Rue, who is a Kenku (bird person.) The Kenku are a monster race that became playable in 5th edition.

The photos in this post were taken by D. Davalos (flickr, twitter, instagram) at PAX West 2016.

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Your new favorite cosplay tool: the hot knife

Let’s take a few minutes to talk about our new favorite tool for finishing fabric edges…. the hot knife!  For those who are unfamiliar with this product, a hot knife is similar in size to a soldering iron with changeable tips.  Once plugged in, the tips will heat up so that you can use the hot end to cut or heat various materials.  Hot knives are pretty cheap too - the below set will run you $22 on Amazon.com.

Many cosplayers already use hot knives to cut foam and other prop materials, but you can use a hot knife on fabric too!  So long as your fabric is made from unnatural material such as polyester, a hot knife will melt and slag the raw end of your fabric, turning it into a hard, plastic-like line.  However natural fabrics like cotton will not melt and slag - instead these will simply burn away if you try to light them on fire or use a hot knife.  To test your fiber and perform a burn test, follow these steps.

But why would I ever want to melt my fabric??

There’s a few reasons!

Edge finishing.  Is your fabric edge an odd shape, or something that can’t easily be rolled or serged?  Slagging or cutting with the hot knife prevents your fabric from fraying, and allows you to create whatever shape your design calls for.

Distressing.  We used the heck out of the hot knife for our Sakizou costumes, since it required so many raw and distressed edges.  Holes and rips can look a little strange if your fabric is the kind that frays easily - what looks great now may not look so hot in a day or two when threads are beginning to unravel.  Sealing the edges of your fabric with a hot knife guarantees that the edge will not fray, no matter how much you wear your costume.  We used the following methods while creating our Sakizou cosplays:

  • Slagging while cutting - on satin, I first traced out my distressed pattern while using chalk.  I then chose one of the tips that came to a point, and “cut” along that pattern with the hot knife.  The heat from the knife burned through the satin and sealed the edge in one go.  A heavy piece of cardboard should be placed under your work so that you do not accidentally cut or burn your table.  This method is great for weightier fabrics or ones that will not roll under the knife.
  • Slagging after cutting - on chiffon, the above steps were difficult to do since the fabric was so prone to sliding.  Instead I first cut the basic shape I wanted with scissors.  I then used a flat tip and ran the hot knife along all edges of the fabric to seal.  Be careful of the heat setting and how long you stay in one place while using this method, as light fabric can melt easily.

Some general hot knife tips:

  • Don’t over-heat your knife.  Test first to determine which temperature is best for your fabric; something too hot can melt away your fabric more than you intended.
  • Don’t leave your hot knife unattended or around animals/children.  It’s really hot!
  • As always, make sure you use your hot knife in a well-ventilated area since you are in essence melting plastic, and different polyesters can give off fumes.
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Tiki has these absurdly high thigh slits. The reference picture I’ve attached is actually one of the more tame examples. Tiki has anime proportions with mile-long legs, which means when proportioning Tiki’s dress for cosplay, one has to make the dress as short as possible (read: barely covers the butt) in order to show a lot of leg, which then requires the side vents to be even more dramatic to compensate.

Wild, right?

But here’s the point of this post: long has underwear been the bane of Kasumi (DOA) and Mai Shiranui (King of Fighters) and Slave Leia’s existences. Generally speaking (though not always, given alt. costumes and redesigns) these costumes do not permit visible underwear, which can be something of a problem for cosplayers. Dance tights were not always a thing. I’ve seen so much side-vag in my days, people. So much side-vag.

Anyhoo. We are a PG-13 sort of lot, and so we are making a custom thong for Kat’s Tiki costume, so that if the wind chooses to take the dress on the air, or Kat just, I don’t know, moves, the Voice of Naga will maintain some dignity or something.

In the end, Kat will have dance tights AND this custom underwear under her dress, for that seamless anime look.

And here’s how we did it, part one.

  1. “Take your swimsuit blocks” is a rather ridiculous sentence because realistically I know few people own these, so just take any of the following items: a pair of high-waisted underwear you don’t mind cutting up, an existing bikini bottom pattern, an existing underwear pattern, etc. Use this as a base to trace off the general shape on a spandex fabric for a mock-up. You don’t have to be perfect, but try to be neat. Remember: the front should curve in and the back shoulder curve out. If your back is curving in, you’re making a thong. (Which we will be cutting it down to, eventually, but for the purposes of drafting, we want to at least START with some decent booty coverage.)
  2. Extend the waist pretty high. It’s easier to cut down than add more, so just be generous. This here would easily go to Kat’s armpits, but that’s how we roll.
  3. Assemble the two pieces, front and back – you’ve now made some seriously ugly granny panties.
  4. Put on ugly granny panty mock-up. Take a piece of chalk (or some sort of appropriate marker) and draw out the line of where you want the edge to sit, front and back. Try not to giggle if you need a friend to help draw on your butt.
  5. Take off the panties and undo the crotch seam. Fold garment in half along the center front and center back lines so the garment is symmetrical; pin in place so it doesn’t shift around. See that line you drew? Cut it there.
  6. Try on again. Refine as needed. I changed the cut a bit between the photos and the final pattern.
  7. When satisfied, disassemble the pattern to create your hard copy. Draw it out cleanly and then pull your pattern pieces from that. You’ll notice I did the waistband entirely on paper; it’s easy as long as you know the measurement of where that sits.

I’ll do a part 2 on this if I remember to take pictures of the things I did so far lol.

- Jenn

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mangosirene

I get a lot of asks about undergarments for more revealing cosplays, and this is an excellent solution~!

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aicosu
Anonymous asked:

How the hell do you get so precise with got glue?

You mean hot glue?

I’ve had about 7 years of experience using hot glue as a detailing tool, so thats one thing. 

Honestly I could write a book of tricks with hot glue. 

But the key things Ive learned are…

-Let your gun sit for about 40 minutes before use. GET THAT SHIT HOT, the hotter the gun, the smoother and less clumpy the glue. 

-METAL NOZZLES ONLY. Like this:

NONE OF THAT PLASTIC CONE OF SAFETY BULLSHIT

CRAP.- Get gluesticks that are REALLY long. Dont get the mini shorts unless you have too. It saves you from getting that little gap of time where the glue stick cant be pushed anymore, and ends up pumping out dollops of a mess.  AND ALWAYS have one on hand, so when that does happens you can immediately push it along. 

-IGNORE THE LITTLE STRINGIE THINGS. Ignore them. Do all your detailing, riding, rivets, what have you. Let the strings happen. They will happen, let them. When your done and it all dries, just dab some duck tape or roll your hand or a brush over the detailing and pick up all the strings. They will just snap off. 

-WHEN YOU FUCK UP KEEP GOING. Line got too fat? Leaked over the edge? JUST KEEP GOING! Nothing you can do when the glue is still hot. Just let it dry. Honestly. The whole of your line or detail is more important than the fuck up. AND AFTER IT DRIES, just use an Xacto to go back and cut off the fuck up. Either cut it down to size or cut it off completely and redo that little area. 

-To make your edges look welded instead of all puffy or raised, while your glue is still hot take another stick and smear it through against the creases. Do another line and smear again. Bam, glued together and when its painted it looks like welded armor. 

-Faster is better. Taking your time means your squeezing slower, so the glue comes out slower. It dries pretty fast on itself, so it clumps as it goes down like that, making that rainwater effect. If you want smooth raising lines you gotta go fast! GO FAST! My trick is to lay down a scrap piece of cardboard or foam and squeeze out some practice lines like you would a paintbrush. Swipe a few time on the cardboard, swipe the armor. Back and forth, back and forth. It keeps the glue flowin. 

HAPPY HOT GLUING! 

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A lot of people don’t believe me when I say that I’ve only been sewing for a little over 3 years. Previous to that I had only really ever sewn plushies, pajama pants or pillows during Guide Guide workshops aka I could put fabric through a machine and sew in (sort of) straight lines but not much else. I had never used a clothing pattern before, I had never used anything other than a basic straight stitch, and I had never bought fabric. October 2012 was the first time I ever sewed any garments completely from scratch and those were my Fushimi from [K] vest and coat and now this October (2015) I will be competing at the Master’s level for cosplay craftsmanship. So I figured I’d give a short rundown of how I taught myself how to sew and how I improved.

1) I watched a lot of Project Runway (the earlier seasons… Annnndreeee, where is Annnndreee?). While this didn’t help much in actual sewing, it got me familiar with a whole lot of terminology and types of fabric and outfits. Plus it also showed me where people tended to take shortcuts and when those shortcuts tended to fail. 

2) I got a very basic sewing machine and I READ THE ENTIRE USER MANUAL. I started off on a Singer Simple which was a gift from my parents (who actually bought it 2 years earlier but never gave it to me thinking I’d never use it… HA!) and I went through every single English page of that user manual. I became familiar with all the parts of my machine, how to thread it, how to change bobbins, how to clean it, how to fix jams, all the different stitch types, and I practiced sewing a bunch of random stitches on scrap pieces of fabric just to see what they looked like and how they changed when I changed different tension settings.

3) I got a basic sewing book (from like 1965… it’d probably better to get an updated/current book) that acted as a glossary of sewing terms. I had no idea what 50% of the stitches I needed to use were called so this became very useful later when I bought my first pattern.

4) I bought my first patterns and chose something fairly simple to start off with which was a lined vest (followed by an immensely more difficult jacket). I went with Simiplicity patterns after doing a lot of googling for the most new-user-friendly patterns.

5) Then I FOLLOWED THE PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS. It seems like an obvious step but even now I sometimes skip a step and then later regret it. Everything the pattern said I needed, I bought. I bought the specific types of fabric, interfacing, thread, buttons, I did not deviate from their suggestions for the first trial run. Then I read through the pattern instructions, cut out all the corresponding pieces for my size and got to work. The key was to work slowly and re-read things as I went. I also used my sewing book and google to help better explain some of the instructions that were not 100% clear to me just starting out. I also looked up youtube video tutorials on how to iron seams, sew darts, properly clip curved edges, sew button holes, and finish inside seams. Research, research, research!

6) To re-iterate: TAKE YOUR TIME. Slow and steady wins the race. It took me probably a solid 4 days to sew a very simple vest that would probably take me maybe a couple hours now but damn it was one of the cleanest looking vests I had ever sewn. I made sure not to rush anything and gave myself lots of time.

7) I kept practicing. The more I sewed, the more familiar I became with how garments were put together and where I could change things to better fit my size or how to alter things to better fit the garment I was trying to create. I experimented whenever I could on scrap fabric to see what would and would not work for stitching and ironing.

3 years later and I can now draft my own patterns and sew dozens of different types of garments with dozens of fabric types. I would attribute 90% of my learning experience to taking it slow at first and researching as I went. I didn’t allow any guesswork on the first couple of projects I worked on because how would I ever learn if I didn’t look into how something was properly done? Google, youtube, tutorial blogs (wink wink), reference books, and pattern instructions are you friends, do not take them for granted. 

Pictured at the top on the left is the first Kirishiki vest I (rush) sewed in July 2012 without following instructions and trying to do it myself. The vest on the right is from December 2012 after I decided to take my time and follow instructions and actually learn while I was sewing. You can improve 100% just by taking your time, doing some research and following the instructions.

Bonus: What I bought for my sewing starter kit

  1. A green rotary/cutting mat. They can be really expensive but I have been using my large mat for 3 years straight and it works wonders at not only protecting the surface you are working on, but giving you a nice sturdy pinning and cutting surface that is self-healing and doesn’t get destroyed by pins and exacto knives.
  2. 1 large and 1 small pair of orange handled sewing scissors.
  3. A 6" x 24" clear sewing ruler.
  4. A pack of white/blue fabric pencils.
  5. A box of standard pins, plus a pin cushion.
  6. A pack of extra bobbins.
  7. A pack of standard sewing needles for hand-sewing.
  8. A pack of standard sewing needles for my machine.
  9. An iron and mini ironing board. 

Happy sewing!

-Heather

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