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Vince's needlework and occasional drawings

@vincentbriggs / vincentbriggs.tumblr.com

Vincent, Canada, he/him, I have an FAQ for historical sewing questions!! Side blog for the stuff I make, which is mostly 18th century menswear but I do sew some other things, and sometimes I draw things. My main blog is vinceaddams. Banner photo by Hailley Fayle.
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I just got a link to your video from Tom Scott newsletter. So if you get any influx that's probably from there. Also, those are two (three?) interests I never thought I'd see together...

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Oh my! I have no idea how such a giant came across my tiny little 17.2k channel in an already pretty small niche, but yay!! That would explain the comment I just got on this video.

I'm subscribed to his channel but not his newsletter, but it looks like I can read what he said about my waistcoat on this website in 2 days :)

Edit: Thank you to the people who put the newsletter excerpt in the comments!

(Also, for anyone new here, dinosaurs go here and my sewing & all other artwork goes on @vincentbriggs)

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I have finished my button video! It is 35 minutes long and I do 4 different buttons. Here’s a link to the accompanying blog post with more photos & links.

The thrilling sequel:

I also do 4 examples in this one, but they’re pretty simple so it’s only about 12 minutes. This one also has an accompanying blog post with links.

Oh, I meant to add this one, and forgot!

And a link to the blog post with all the reference images and such.

Reblogging again because a few people commented on the coat buttons in the previous post, and the first video shows how to make them! (It was my first time recording voiceover and of course I made the music too loud, so the audio isn’t the best, but I always type out the subtitles.)

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Hello! What's the reason we shouldn't use seam ripper for cutting buttonholes? Sorry this seems a traumatic subject but I'm curious!

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They're not the right tool for the job because the blades are a lot duller than a buttonhole cutter or a chisel, and you're going to end up with a more ragged edge, but more importantly you're dragging the blade sideways along the length of the buttonhole and are therefore in great danger of ripping past the end of where you want to cut, and possibly right through the edge of the garment. Sure maybe you could put a pin across the end, but then you're just going to dull the blade ten times faster.

Despicable practice all around, I hate it I hate it! Just get a cheap little chisel!!

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Made a hood to wear at home because my head was cold. The hood is just a big square folded in half and sewn part way into the middle in a Y shape to make sort of a pair of little darts, and then the other two edges sewn together and the remaining hole in the back gathered in somewhat uneven cartridge pleats, with the extra fullness being pleated into the neck.

The cape part is the rest of the fabric (which was a 1.3 m piece of cotton flannel from the thrift store) with the larger leftover rectangle forming the back and the smaller rectangle being cut in half mostly diagonally and added to the front.

It was a very quick project done almost entirely on machine, which is unusual for me. There are a few things I'd do differently next time - I'd make the hood a bit shorter so the front edge doesn't block my view so much, and I'd put the button loop right on top of the neck seam instead of sandwiching it inside the front edge seam of the hood. I'd have to cover the ends of the loop with a patch, which would be a good use for the neck hole cutout.

I think this pattern would work on a wide variety of sizes of fabric cut, as long as you cut the hood out first. Then the remaining piece could be cut into the cape portion and it might be very small or very large, and the two angled front pieces could be made to fit the edges on either side of the neck hole by adjusting the angle at which you cut that second rectangle apart.

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Hey there! I have a sort of random question. I just recently started working for an industrial sewing company(we make golf cart enclosures). The company recently went public and was bought by a man with a lot of money. He has asked us what we need to really streamline our process, like Lazer cutters and new machines. But we know nothing about those kind of machines. We sew on a couple of really old Pfaff fellas. So my question is, if you had carte blanche to buy an industrial machine, which would you pick?

Hope this is an okay place to ask this. I love your sewing! ❤️

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Hm, I do not think I'm the right person to ask about that!

I do have a lot of experience using industrial machines, but only the ones made for clothing. Industrial machines tend to be very specific - at my current job there's one that just does straight stitch, and one that just does blind stitch hemming.

Presumably the kind of machines used for outdoor coverings would be different ones, made to take much thicker thread and fabric? I think a business that makes similarly Large things would be a better place to ask.

I haven't really noticed any difference in the industrial machines I've used. The one at my current job are from the Reliable corporation, the ones at my previous job were Juki, and I don't remember what the ones at college were. All of them are good and sturdy and have never given me any trouble.

I hope you can find someone who knows more about it!

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vinceaddams

JEECHES

my friend you are a delight

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I don't have them anymore because they didn't fit very well, so I donated them to a small local theatre company. And I regret not doing yellow topstitching, I should have just gone all in and done it.

I have another remnant of denim in my stash, so perhaps someday I'll make better jeeches.

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@air3d3lalm3na replied to your post:

How is a good fit versus a bad fit determined in this sort and era of clothing?

​In this particular instance I made them too long and too loose at the knee. For comparison, here are my orange silk breeches, which fit me very well:

Here they are compared to my first ever pair of breeches, which were even worse.

I'd been overly concerned with the ability to bend my knee, but it turns out it didn't even make much of a difference in the range of motion. Your knee movement is still going to be restricted either way, it'll just look worse if you make them too long and loose.

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so i am newly in a wheelchair which has been a Massive gain in my ability to go out and about. but i realized that i have aprox 0 clothes that look Good while seated. its a completely different silhouette and i am at a loss as to what to do for it. do you have any suggestions for what could look good seated? preferably no skirts or dresses.

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Congrats on chair acquisition!!

Since you're sending this to me specifically I am working under the assumption that you mean to do some amount of sewing.

A high waisted silhouette definitely works best for sitting. I make all my pants with the waistband at my natural waist, and a bit of pleating or gathering at the back just like they did on 18th century breeches, and I've never noticed any particular discomfort from sitting in them. (I think high waisted pants are more comfortable in general, and that low rise jeans are evil.)

It's something I've never really thought about before, but sitting is a very legs-forward position, so perhaps a colourful or fancy stripe down the side would work well.

(I made this pair 10 years ago and they didn't fit well and are long gone, but I should do a better version someday...)

Or some other form of side seam decoration, like these fabulous button tabs.

(I don't know what the source for this mid 19th century fashion plate is.)

Cropped jackets would also be good. The first thing that comes to mind for me is the Carmagnole, which was a style worn by French revolutionaries. It's got a pretty similar cut to a regular 1790's coat, just shorter.

And there are other styles of short jacket, like this one from a few decades later.

I think it might be possible to get a similar effect from cutting down a thrifted corduroy jacket, depending on the pocket placement? It's not something I've done myself though.

A fancy little bolero could be a lot of fun too! I quite like these ones made by Marlowe Lune. Super easy to sew, and could be patterned by cutting down a bigger pattern that fits the torso.

They'd be a good thing to try if you have a smallish piece of fancy fabric, or a small bit trim to use, or want to try a small amount of embroidery.

There are lots of historical styles with sleeves too, and all sorts of decorations.

(Dunno the source for this one either, unfortunately, but the pin says 1880s reception dress. I think a little jacket like that would look good with a puffy shirt and pants.)

Short capes might be practical too, and the late 19th and early 20th century have tons of fancy capelets for inspiration, like this one.

I hope this is somehow helpful! I don't know if you're looking to sew things from scratch or to buy and alter stuff or what, and I have no personal experience using a wheelchair, but these are the best things I can think of for a suitable silhouette. Dramatic sleeve/shoulder puffs would also be shown off to great effect, if that's something you'd like to wear.

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Adisabledicon on IG has started sewing her own adaptive clothing and talks about specific patterns that she has used as a base for ideas!

Thank you!! Actual wheelchair users are infinitely more qualified to give advice on this than I am!

@sybilhallward also suggested https://izadaptive.com/

Hello! actual wheelchair user into historical fashion here!!! we don't have *much* overlap since i prefer skirts and dresses however i can still give a few tips!

having things sit or end at the waist is good advice, it make the silhouette nicer and importantly: does not put the bulk on your hips. Generally, i like to avoid bulk or seams at my hips because I've found that gets painful fast, and makes it hard to sit!

Additionally, if you sew for yourself, and you haven't done so already: Retake your measurements while sitting!!!!! I know i have to add a few inches to my waist and subtract a few from my inseam so that they look nice whil I'm in my chair. keep in mind your thighs will also be more compressed!

If you have a manual wheelchair, make certain to keep anything within two or three inches of your wrists well-fitted, especially to avoid them puffying out and getting Wheel Gunk on them.

Also, I would invest in things to secure clothing. Somehow, I find my clothes frequently need re-adjusted, and when your hands (or hand, for electric) is what keeps you moving... having to stop to re-adjust clothes can get frustrating! So, pins, clasps, ect!

If you do not have a tie-on pocket, I found making myself one was a very smart idea. Bernadette Banner has a video on making them, but I adjusted the pattern to be smaller, because again, bulk can quickly become Too Much when in a chair. The reason this pocket is a life saver is because I've found many pockets sit too high up close to my hip joint and too far to the side to be properly useful, because i just Cannot get my hands in, nor can I actually Store things in there. but a tie on pocket can be tied at the waist and shifted to sit further towards the front of my body!

Furthermore, here's something fun: no one will ever see the back of your waistband ever again. if something has pleats you need to take out, take them out from the back first, and you won't need to redo them because no one will see (and also pleats hurt to sit on).

Agreeing with Vincent that decorations along the front of pants will look very snazzy!!! side could be nice, but isn't as likely to be visible, though it varies person to person!

And, for any modern fashion you may or may not wear: i find shorter pants/trousers tend to look best if they hit at or below the knee. Especially if you have belly fat (not a bad thing!!!!!!) , your tummy will cover will cover the top few inches of your thighs making things look much shorter, and also you just don't wanna flash people from the front.

Another good thing for manual wheelchairs is you'll want to make certain you have flexibikity in your shoulder and upper arm, so ensuring you have a good fit on your arm scye is a must!!

also... depending on your height, avoid super tall hats (i.e. stovepipes.) people will be viewing you top-down, so a medium or short length hat might work best!!

also: Congratulations on the chair!!! I hope it serves you well for many years to come, and that you teo get to go on many amazing adventures together!!!!!

now, i believe i need to make myself a capelet for winter...

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I forgot to post about the backdrop I painted a few months ago!

It's made of a 9' x 12' canvas dropcloth, cut down to be about 9' x 8', which is much better than sewing it out of yardage. Both because it's cheaper, and because the dropcloth was woven 9 feet wide and has no seams.

I sewed a channel along the top so I could put a piece of wood through it and hang it from 3 nails. (The room it's in is not actually in my lease, but nobody's using it for anything besides storing a bit of furniture, so it's alright.)

The paint is flat white interior paint, mixed with some brown and black acrylic. I did 3 layers of trees in increasingly dark shades of greyish brown. I didn't use a brush for any of it, I painted the trunks with a narrow trim roller and used the edges of the roller for the branches. I covered up the floor with plastic before I laid it down to paint, and didn't get any paint on anything that wasn't mine.

My goal was to make it as neutral as possible so that it would look decent with lots of different clothes and not be distracting, and so that I could put a wide variety of .png frames in front of it. Since youtube videos are very wide there's still a lot of bare wall on either side if I'm zoomed all the way out, but it's very easy to cover up. I've only drawn the plain tree frame so far, but I mean to draw more in different styles for different projects.

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reblogged

so i am newly in a wheelchair which has been a Massive gain in my ability to go out and about. but i realized that i have aprox 0 clothes that look Good while seated. its a completely different silhouette and i am at a loss as to what to do for it. do you have any suggestions for what could look good seated? preferably no skirts or dresses.

Avatar

Congrats on chair acquisition!!

Since you're sending this to me specifically I am working under the assumption that you mean to do some amount of sewing.

A high waisted silhouette definitely works best for sitting. I make all my pants with the waistband at my natural waist, and a bit of pleating or gathering at the back just like they did on 18th century breeches, and I've never noticed any particular discomfort from sitting in them. (I think high waisted pants are more comfortable in general, and that low rise jeans are evil.)

It's something I've never really thought about before, but sitting is a very legs-forward position, so perhaps a colourful or fancy stripe down the side would work well.

(I made this pair 10 years ago and they didn't fit well and are long gone, but I should do a better version someday...)

Or some other form of side seam decoration, like these fabulous button tabs.

(I don't know what the source for this mid 19th century fashion plate is.)

Cropped jackets would also be good. The first thing that comes to mind for me is the Carmagnole, which was a style worn by French revolutionaries. It's got a pretty similar cut to a regular 1790's coat, just shorter.

And there are other styles of short jacket, like this one from a few decades later.

I think it might be possible to get a similar effect from cutting down a thrifted corduroy jacket, depending on the pocket placement? It's not something I've done myself though.

A fancy little bolero could be a lot of fun too! I quite like these ones made by Marlowe Lune. Super easy to sew, and could be patterned by cutting down a bigger pattern that fits the torso.

They'd be a good thing to try if you have a smallish piece of fancy fabric, or a small bit trim to use, or want to try a small amount of embroidery.

There are lots of historical styles with sleeves too, and all sorts of decorations.

(Dunno the source for this one either, unfortunately, but the pin says 1880s reception dress. I think a little jacket like that would look good with a puffy shirt and pants.)

Short capes might be practical too, and the late 19th and early 20th century have tons of fancy capelets for inspiration, like this one.

I hope this is somehow helpful! I don't know if you're looking to sew things from scratch or to buy and alter stuff or what, and I have no personal experience using a wheelchair, but these are the best things I can think of for a suitable silhouette. Dramatic sleeve/shoulder puffs would also be shown off to great effect, if that's something you'd like to wear.

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Adisabledicon on IG has started sewing her own adaptive clothing and talks about specific patterns that she has used as a base for ideas!

Thank you!! Actual wheelchair users are infinitely more qualified to give advice on this than I am!

@sybilhallward also suggested https://izadaptive.com/

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Hi! Sending this for the wheelchair user who contacted you: a couple of years ago I listened to a panel at an ADH conference from the founders of izadaptive.com - a brand of clothing made for wheelchair use. It's a bit pricey, but it could be worth looking into!

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Posting so that person can see it, thank you!

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so i am newly in a wheelchair which has been a Massive gain in my ability to go out and about. but i realized that i have aprox 0 clothes that look Good while seated. its a completely different silhouette and i am at a loss as to what to do for it. do you have any suggestions for what could look good seated? preferably no skirts or dresses.

Avatar

Edit: Check the notes for more people's input, including actual wheelchair users who know much more about what works than I could!

Congrats on chair acquisition!!

Since you're sending this to me specifically I am working under the assumption that you mean to do some amount of sewing.

A high waisted silhouette definitely works best for sitting. I make all my pants with the waistband at my natural waist, and a bit of pleating or gathering at the back just like they did on 18th century breeches, and I've never noticed any particular discomfort from sitting in them. (I think high waisted pants are more comfortable in general, and that low rise jeans are evil.)

It's something I've never really thought about before, but sitting is a very legs-forward position, so perhaps a colourful or fancy stripe down the side would work well.

(I made this pair 10 years ago and they didn't fit well and are long gone, but I should do a better version someday...)

Or some other form of side seam decoration, like these fabulous button tabs.

(I don't know what the source for this mid 19th century fashion plate is.)

Cropped jackets would also be good. The first thing that comes to mind for me is the Carmagnole, which was a style worn by French revolutionaries. It's got a pretty similar cut to a regular 1790's coat, just shorter.

And there are other styles of short jacket, like this one from a few decades later.

I think it might be possible to get a similar effect from cutting down a thrifted corduroy jacket, depending on the pocket placement? It's not something I've done myself though.

A fancy little bolero could be a lot of fun too! I quite like these ones made by Marlowe Lune. Super easy to sew, and could be patterned by cutting down a bigger pattern that fits the torso.

They'd be a good thing to try if you have a smallish piece of fancy fabric, or a small bit trim to use, or want to try a small amount of embroidery.

There are lots of historical styles with sleeves too, and all sorts of decorations.

(Dunno the source for this one either, unfortunately, but the pin says 1880s reception dress. I think a little jacket like that would look good with a puffy shirt and pants.)

Short capes might be practical too, and the late 19th and early 20th century have tons of fancy capelets for inspiration, like this one.

I hope this is somehow helpful! I don't know if you're looking to sew things from scratch or to buy and alter stuff or what, and I have no personal experience using a wheelchair, but these are the best things I can think of for a suitable silhouette. Dramatic sleeve/shoulder puffs would also be shown off to great effect, if that's something you'd like to wear.

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i just noticed the decor in the background of your fabulous red shirt photos and it is awesome, the feathers, the bottles, the cups... especially the hand with the finger (?) next to it. Is it wax? did you make it yourself?

i have the option to make a wax hand next week, before i thought it was one of the kids activities to be ignored, but now that i see yours i think about making one

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Nope, it's a hollow plastic mannequin hand!

I rescued it from the garbage at work, and I've been meaning to glue the finger back on and repaint it, but haven't yet.

One fun thing about it being broken is that you can blow across the hole (like a bottle) and it makes a sound.

Not to be confused with the intact hands of Mr. Fibreglass, who is also a mannequin I got from work when they replaced them all a couple years ago.

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