Since taking the helm at Louis Vuitton in 1997, the enigmatic and masterful Marc Jacobs has revitalized the revered label with artistic collaborations with the likes of Richard Prince, Takashia Murakami, and Stephen Sprouse. Each has been a stunning success, spawning reissues (due to overwhelming demand) as well as a sea of counterfeits. If history is prone to repeat itself, LV’s latest foray will prove so timely and mind-blowing that even the most discerning of fashion-minded art lovers will be left seeing spots.
“I am a big fan of Yayoi Kusama’s work,” Jacobs says of the Japanese artist, whose first retrospective travels from the Tate Modern in London to the Whitney in New York this week. “She took great pleasure in showing me a Louis Vuitton Speedy bag that she had hand-painted herself,” he says, recalling their first meeting at her studio in Tokyo in 2006.
Kusama often customizes her personal wardrobe to blend with her large-scale colorful paintings, and it is likely that fateful Speedy was no exception. The spirit behind her signature dress code is now being refracted through the LV lens—the manifestation of which hits stores in conjunction with the Whitney show and includes teeny polka-dot bikinis, cotton and clear plastic trench coats, bags shaped like her pumpkin sculptures, charms, and miniaudières that reflect the signature design aesthetic of the entire Kusama oeuvre.
An artist who considers herself a “dot lost among other dots,” Kusama says “emotion created by this collaboration will expand my polka dots everywhere.” Meaning? “Love forever.” The inescapable theme of infinity floods her work and finds its psychedelic way into the heart of even the most jaded of mainstream critics. Infinite and indispensible. Wear without end.