Streets...
Erdem Fall 2015 RTW
Because his muse was a nut, a woman fallen on hard times, trailing clouds of faded glamour, shreds of privilege, delusional notions of her own capabilities. A dream to work with, in other words. Just as Billy Wilder found his Norma Desmond, Moralioglu wove an inspiring fashion fantasia out of his broken muse.
Hood by Air Spring 2015 LFW
Institutional oppression isn't his thing. So it wasn't a total surprise that Oliver pointed to the chokers in his show—and the gussied-up crutches—as part of a commentary on the breakdown of machismo. A key theme of this show, he explained, was an interrogation of what it means to be a man. Hence the deconstructed blazers and fatigues, the riff on the three-piece suit, the very on-trend and very appealing reinterpretations of traditional shirting, for both girls and boys. And for people who refuse to identify with any one particular gender. This was a Hood by Air show, after all.