My fellow Asexuals, rise. Tag yourself if you too are a strange little harlequin with sexually ambiguous energy that walks the circus grounds-
I just really wanted to make myself a clown too before the month ended, my ace identity means a lot to me after years of questioning if it really was "me" or not and wondering "Do I fit the definition?"
Turns out, there was more than one definition for me to read up on and one day in 2021 I read the one that felt like *me* for the first time since I was 15 and didn't know the real size of the queer world. Funnily enough, ever since I figured myself out every year I've had one or more friends come out to me as ace too. It feels like I'm not alone anymore, I'm surrounded by people who know they can talk to me about this. I'm Ageosexual/Sex Repulsed and proud!
The most realistic end to Joker would be an army of clowns cornering him in some abandon building away from witnesses and beating him to death for breaking the code.
ok we need to go over Miniature Mardi Gras Jesters for a hot second here cause I've seen some misinformation
(please note that I am not a coulrologist, I’ve just grown up with the breed my entire life. My great-grandmother was gifted a pure bread Jeweled Mini Mardi Gras as a wedding present and the women on my mom’s side of the family has had at least three per household ever since)
As some of you know, the Mini Mardi Gras are a cross breed of French Miniature Porcelain Jesters, the Jeweled Pierrot, and the Miniature Spanish Flamenco. They were originally bred as companion clowns for the rich in New Orleans throughout its long history, but only really started getting their classic size when the Spanish brought with them the Miniature Spanish Flamenco after the Treaty of Paris in 1763. The breed wasn’t acknowledged until after 1840, and by then they had been cross bread with the now endangered Haitian Vodou which was said to have been brought over with the slave trade. This colorful history has created a small and highly intelligent breed of Jesters.
Mini Mardi Gras Jesters, as some of you know, imprint heavily on their owners. This is a by-product of being bred as a companion clown. Because of this many people seem to believe that they do not need a nest, or are happy living in households like a cat. This is incredibly wrong. Mini Mardi Gras are great household clowns and don’t need a large outdoors big top, but they do need a lot of vertical space. These Jesters love to climb, they love to explore, their breed to be taken with on social visits and to ride on people shoulders (and with the larger variants) on parade floats. Expecting your Mini Mardi Gras to be content with being underfoot is not only dangerous for your Jester ( because they are a porcelain breed and being stepped on can break bones) but because they will get bored and try to climb things they are not supposed to (and could fall and hurt themselves). Even if you only have one Mini Mardi Gras Jester in your house you MUST have vertical space for them to climb on, a Mini Clown Highway is incredibly important.
[a good example of a Mini Clown Highway]
Another thing I’ve heard people do is because Mini Mardi Gras do not need an outside tent they will expect their Jesters to be content inside all the time. This is also a misconception, as the Mini Mardi Gras want to be shown off and ride along and can get bored being inside all day. And whall its true you can not walk a Mini Mardi Gras like you would any other regular sized clown, Mini Mardi Gras do need to be walked. A thing my family likes to do is bring ours on errands. Mini Mardi Gras are a perfect purse or shoulder clowns, and love to be doted on by strangers. Our current family troop (including my personal service clown Peanut) loves to come with us on outings to wineries or farmers markets on weekends, and I will often take one or two with me on target or pharmacy runs. You have to remember though that these Jesters were breed to live in a much warmer and humid climate of the south, and if you end up getting a Mini Mardi Gras and live somewhere where it snows or the heat is very dry you are going to have to adjust the temperature of your house accordingly to your clown and only take them outside when the temperature won’t harm them.
Another thing I’ve seen people do is to think that the Mini Mardi Gras care content to live on a normal classic Jester diet. Whall Mini Mardi Gras do need wine and cheese as the main part of their diet, you will quickly find that they will turn up there nose at other foods such as hot dogs and peanuts. This is because the breed needs steady meals of King Cake and Beignets as the main part of their main diet. We even feed our Jesters gumbo to make sure they get all of the correct proteins they need (mostly during the winter or when they are sheading though, too much gumbo can lead to upset tummies and overweight clowns)
Now if you do end up getting more than one Mini Mardi Gras it is a good idea to give them their own room to nest in. Whall one in an apartment will be happy with having a nest in the corner of your bedroom and lots of climbing space, a troop needs their own room to play. Our basement is currently 20% office and 80% Mardi Gras all year round. Our troop is mainly of mixed breeds of Mini Mardi Gras and so need more room and some outside play space, having a troop of these Jesters will need a space of their own.
This is especially so if you get a rescue from a feral colony down south. Louisiana and Georgia have a large population of Mini Mardi Gras and Railroad Clown mix ferial colonies because of some owners in the 80s releasing there Mini Mardi Gras into the wild. These Jesters are invasive to the south and have been greatly aiding in the extinction of Rougarou and have seen a decline in the population of various swamp monsters throughout the south since their arrival of these feral colonies. There are lots of rescues you can support (im affiliated with Stray Clown Strut in Savannah, that’s where I got Peanut from) that rescue abandoned Giggles and partake in the Catch and Release programs to bring down these populations. Unfortunately, because of the amount of Railroad Clown in these Jesters, they need a lot more space than most people who keep Mini Mardi Gras mixes can provide as they do still need space to create their fires and larger model train sets and are not good for everyday pets
Oof! Sorry, with nursing school, I’ve been so busy, clowlings have been the last thing on my mind!!!
I bred larger breeds of clown- mostly American Big-Top Circus- so I can only really tell you about big breeds. Little breeds, like the Mardi Gras Porcelain Jester, I don’t have a ton of info about.
Big-Tops have a gestational period of 210 days, which is just about 29 weeks, or 7 months. As your female approaches her due date, you’ll need to get her nesting area ready.
This should be sufficient. A large inflated enclosure with netting and at least 2.5ft deep of “clown eggs” should do you just fine. These “eggs” can be bought at pretty much any reputable clowning store. The only quibble I have with this picture is that there aren’t very many colors of clown egg- but it could be this female chose to discard other colors.
Your female will begin to tend to her nesting area, discarding eggs she decides are not good enough, maybe sprinkling confetti around the area, or glitter. I’ve found that the relative level of whimsy exhibited by my females during this time varies wildly, so please don’t be alarmed if your female only manipulates the eggs and otherwise ignores the nesting area.
Once she’s birthed her young, they will instinctively hide within the clown eggs. Don’t worry if you don’t see them at all for the first week or so! This is normal behavior to ward against predators. Some clown owners choose to have breeding enclosures set up with glass encasing the clown eggs, ensuring they can see the activity within the eggs and getting the most accurate clown count they can.
Once the little ones peek out of hiding, you can see their markings! Momma will be busy feeding them- they live exclusively off of breast milk for three months, and then transition slowly over to cotton candy. Momma will introduce the candy slowly, first by simply leaving it in the enclosure with her young, and then eventually by bringing them candy when they attempt to latch to her breast.
You can also sex the clowns at this age. Since removing them to inspect their genitals will usually make mom mad at you, try the following:
Clowns with the Hat Sign (seen above) are males, and clowns with the Hair Sign (see below) are females. Those signs are named because they kind of look like they have a hat, or some hair! Super simple. As they mature, some clowns may lose or even swap their Hat or Hair Sign in favor of secondary sexual characteristics (most notably, females will develop some degree of breast tissue).
Be sure to keep your enclosure clean, and to observe your clownlings frequently for any signs of distress. These include: a lack of color, notable decrease in whimsy, decreased vocalizations, and not eating at least 4 times a day. Your simplest intervention is to offer Faygo or any other high sugar soda- they could just be thirsty! If your clownling persists with being “odd”, however, please do contact your clown doctor.
Mom should usually take very good care of her young, but if she seems disinterested, it may be necessary to bottle feed your clowns and assume care of the young. This could mean moving them into your private home until they’re old enough to run around and eat on their own (6 months, or so).
Baby clowns grow very, very fast. Faster than you’d expect. Don’t be worried if they seem to be growing overnight! It’s normal for clowns to develop rapidly- they didn’t want to be vulnerable for long in the wild. Soon enough, your new clowns will be juggling, unicycling, and face painting with the rest of them!
Lately, I’ve been seeing a lot of misinformation floating around about various breeds of scare clown. This is undoubtedly because of the movie ‘It’, featuring an untrained, rabid scare clown.
Anybody who says scare clowns are a newly developed and dangerous subset clearly hasn’t read into the history of their breeding. While scare breeds are dangerous to a native environment if allowed to roam or if mistreated, they can serve as valued members of a family when well trained.
Example: This lovely early breed of Crested Axehandler posing with its loving family. Note how it protectively hovers over the children, who are visibly comfortable with their pet. This is because Scarers were originally ‘nanny clowns’, their menacing appearance keeping potential harm-doers at bay.
Despite their name and striking looks, a cared-for scarer is a friendly, life-long partner. But laws have been passed to keep these harmless creatures from finding homes legally, and have been beaten and abused when found roaming on their own.
Please reblog this to raise awareness of the true nature of so-called ‘scary’ clowns.
1. A common misconception is that sad clown breeds come from a different breed being put into harsh environments. This is not true! Do not put your clown in harsh environments before breeding in hopes of getting a sad clown.
Rather, all sad clowns come from a common ancestor, the Pierrot Dellarte!
This is a prime example of a healthy Pierrot! Pierrot also happens to be the common ancestor for most mimes.
So, if you want a sadclown variety, your best bet is to breed your current clown with a mime or another sadclown.
2. It’s okay for your sadclown to have color! Many modern sadclowns have color nowadays due to the prevalencey of red clowns and the evergrowing popularity of rainbow clowns. If they start fading, however, do not hesitate to take them to a doctor.
3. Give your sadclown variety! Many sadclowns don’t take joy in the more rigorous clown activities. Instead, give them something creative to do.
It’s so tough going through the #clownpets tag because it’s filled with fish? And random fandom stuff? And all I’m trying to do is see how quickly I can introduce my young Fool to my mature Jester.
I know jesters are a pretty solitary breed, but it’s common knowledge that they do enjoy a young playmate as a sort of apprentice after they reach maturity.
I recently acquired a rescue that is a cross between a Anglio Fool and a French Juggler and he’s very happy with the toys and props I’ve provided but I know he’d love some guidance on the more delicate areas of Clowning Around that need to be taught and aren’t instinctual.
I’m just trying to see people’s advice on when I can start introducing him to my purebred Jester and the Jester’s territory (His small scale medieval court replica). Any thoughts or guidance?
sanctumangelus
I would suggest introducing your Fool before it reaches full maturity. I assume it has already been separated from its parents and is therefore probably of a good age to be introducing to your Jester!
To avoid having your Jester get territorial over their ‘court’ like they tend to be as a breed, I would suggest bringing your Fool in for very short visits while the Jester is actively clowning. This will hopefully have your Jester recognize the younger clown as an audience and not as direct competition for the space.
Slowly start leaving props or belongings that smell like your Fool in the Jester enclosure until there is familiarity and go from there. Longer visits until they both seem comfortable with eachother.
If you Jester displays any aggression outside of playful tousles it is time to pull your Fool out of there for a while and go more slowly. Jesters are quick to perceive others as threats to their court position and have been known to seriously hurt other clowns.
Clowns and Tricksters are two amazing creatures with unique histories. However, I’ve seen some worrying posts on here that seem to suggest that tricksters are merely a sub-species of clown. Tricksters are amazing individuals and nothing like clowns!! Heres a lil comparison between the two:
DIET
CLOWNS - Clowns need to have a high sugar diet, at least 6 cups a day. Some good sources of this are cotton candy and funnel cakes, or other carnival treats (an extra bonus is that carnival treats will make your clown feel more at home!)
TRICKSTERS - Tricksters, unlike clowns, act very aggressive with the presence of high levels of sugar in their systems. They prefer a fast-food based diet. Pizza and french fries are a staple in any tricksters diet!
HABITAT
CLOWNS - A clowns natural home is the circus, however this can differ based on what subspecies of clown they are. In general, you will need to pitch a tent and fill it with tools they need to clown.
TRICKSTERS - Tricksters have no real home. They were originally travellers, and so your trickster will be very antsy if its cooped up all day. Make sure to re-decorate your tricksters space often, and take it on plenty of walks!
APPEARANCE
CLOWNS - A healthy clown should have a bright red nose and lots of curly, coloured hair. Provide your clown with plenty of face makeup and costumes and they should be happy!
TRICKSTERS - Tricksters don’t wear costume makeup, but they are very fond of large, jewel-toned clothes. Their appearance can mimic jesters in many ways.
BEHAVIOR
CLOWNS - Clowns love to make people happy. They are entertainers at heart. Be careful though! Sometimes clowns will put the happiness of others over their own. Make sure to cheer your clown up regularly to avoid this.
TRICKSTERS - Tricksters love to trick others. Their tricks can range from harmless to disastrous, the severity depending on the trickster itself. Make sure to set up opportunities for your trickster to develop their own pranks, and encourage harmless ones!
Sometimes I see people confused about why their mimes don’t seem to lay after being bred.
Yall see, Mime eggs are invisible and take about a week to hatch. If you breed your mama while her eggs are in this state, she’ll reject her old clutch and they’ll die without her.
The babies can be invisible for at least a week but up to five after hatching before they become ghostly for another week. If you try and breed her now, she’ll attempt to kill the smaller male. That’s why you should never breed your mimes until at least seven weeks after the failed breeding. To make sure it failed.
If your mime trusts you, you may be able to ask her if she laid. She may not be able to talk but she can show you. She’ll lead you to an area and mime a box over a certain area many times. That’s where the eggs are.
Honestly I’ve had to foster so many injured daddies that were bred wrong and even some weak little ones that were abandoned. It makes me sad, so many wasted lives by people who didn’t understand mime biology.
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