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#sflag – @shefightslikeagirl on Tumblr

She Fights Like A Girl

@shefightslikeagirl / shefightslikeagirl.tumblr.com

This is an Emilie Autumn fansite / blog, providing up-to-date information and media from inside the walls of the Asylum. Please feel free to browse our archives, but beware: it's easier to get in than it is to get out...
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A preview of the Gallery I've been working on. It's very much still in progress.

This is nowhere near finished, but the goal is to make a full merchandise archive from the Emporium and other places/events.

TOURS & CONCERTS

Pages were added for each tour with dates, information, and videos. Photos to be added soon.

THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS

I've been toying with the page that documents the differences between each edition of the book. I think I can still go more in depth...

ARCHIVES - MISC.

There have also been various updates to the Newsletters and Journal Archives, but those are nowhere near complete.

The Archive is best viewed on desktop or mobile browser, NOT the Tumblr App! Enjoy!

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Anonymous asked:

You are absolutely not responsible for propping up an entire fandom on your own, that's exhausting and unfair and shouldn't be put on anyone's shoulders least of all yours. I've been a follower for a very long time and you have been nothing but fantastic. Worry about your own feelings in regards to the situation and make future decisions for yourself. Everyone else's emotional weight is not yours to carry, go take that nap.

Thank you. <3

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Anonymous asked:

How's your day going

I came into my inbox to answer another anon message dealing with a heavy topic and saw this message instead and... thank you. I really appreciate you asking.

It’s going ok, generally, but when I do EA things I’m just... I’m really tired. And torn. And trying to remain unbiased while feeling lots of ways about lots of different things. Trying not to burn any (imagined) bridges. Trying to decide what to do with this blog if there’s ever a resolution to the issue at hand. Trying to decide if being unbiased is worth it. And then I’m also trying to keep spirits up over on Instagram, too, and...

I need a nap.

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A lot of you liked the first and the third cover, and someone suggested blood. Not being that happy with the tear to show the wallpaper, I trashed it and put in some blood splatter instead. What do you all think about this one? Thank you all so much for your help! I’m still accepting letters. You can send in hand written note scans, text, or even fanart! We’ve got 12 letters so far :)

TBT - Letters from the Asylum - SFLAG Fan Project, 2013

Throwback to that one time a bunch of people sent letters, photos, and artwork in for me to give to EA personally at a VIP meet and greet. 

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Enchanted Living Magazine Giveaway! by She Fights Like A Girl & Self Quarantine Art

Welcome to an impromptu Quarantine / Milestone / Self Promo / Enchanted Living Magazine giveaway! Included in this giveaway is a copy of the Pre-Raphelite Issue of Enchanted Living, featuring Emilie Autumn and Veronica Varlow. I’m also including an item from my personal Etsy shop that I’ve started up while my work life is on pause. Winner will be provided with a code after the giveaway closes to pick any available item free of charge.

This is also a small thank you for (almost) 4,000 followers. We’re only three people away! Thank you to all of you for following along with me on this weird journey through Tumblr and the Asylum.

The Giveaway ~ Ends on 12:01AM, April 1, 2020. ~ One (1) contestant will be chosen at random from the post notes. ~ Winner will be announced within twenty-four hours.

Prizes ~ One (1) print copy of Enchanted Living Magazine* ~ One (1) coupon code for 100% off any item from Self Quarantine Art

Rules ~ Follow the blog. You must be a follower to be able to win. ~ Reblog this post. (Likes do not count.)

Notes ~ *The magazine will be drop-shipped to your location via the Enchanted Living website. The copy featured in the pictures is part of my personal collection. If the magazine sells out before this contest ends, the prize will be substituted with a digital copy. ~ If you like what you see in my Etsy shop, you can use code QUARANTINE10 for 10% off your normal purchase. Domestic shipping is already free! And don’t worry, the shop name is just dumb tongue-in-cheek, I don’t have the virus.

Everything Else ~ Have questions? Put them in SFLAG’s askbox. ~ International participation welcome. Please allow extra time for shipping outside the US. ~ See general contest and giveaway information/detailed rules here. ~ Please promote the contest outside of tumblr! Share it, talk about it, and give everyone a chance to participate.

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Regarding COVID-19

It feels like anyone with any sort of platform is making some sort of announcement now, so...

If any of you have been following for a long time, you know my place of work is shut down "through the end of the month" and possibly longer, so depending on what happens for employees, I may have some time off. Is there anything you want me to do with my unknown amount of freedom? Posts, content, etc. that you want to see. I can finish up the Costume series now and maybe do another short one if anyone wants.

Please send in your suggestions! For the love of God, please do, I'm going to be so bored...

COVID-19 and News Resources:

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Update:

Final Installment of the costuming series will go up next Thursday, or maybe the Thursday after that, due to me not having limited time to finish the graphics for the last article outside of work.

More Important Update:

Come 2020, SFLAG will likely be going silent for an extended period of time. A hiatus, if you will. But don't worry! We're not closing, and I intend to post if any significant EA news that comes about (the Faerie Magazine publication in the Spring, for example, or any Asylum Musical updates). But I'm honestly struggling to continue here with the general lack of interest in the fandom, or at least in my blog. The only involvement I've seen lately only comes around when I monetarily invest in a post (giveaways), which just isn't feasible for me to continue doing, and is just... well, disheartening. Content creation isn't easy, and it's even harder without an audience.

This blog started as a lyric archive and became my love letter to a fanspace that meant very much to me at the time. Despite all the drama we've seen, and even EA's cold shoulder regarding all things SFLAG (which I earned somewhat rightly, somewhat not), I'll always cherish this little hole I carved out for myself in the Asylum.

The askbox will always be open. The current giveaway will continue through the end.

I just want to say thank you to everyone who kept with me all this time. And even though I won't actively be making content, I'll be around. Pop in the askbox and say hi. Let me know what's on your mind, or ask me anything about the bygone days of the Opheliac Era. Whatever you like.

See you next (or next-next) Thursday!

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CORSETS AND STRIPED STOCKINGS: OUTFITTING THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS by She Fights Like A Girl

These articles are best viewed on desktop, but are mobile friendly. Please excuse any strange formatting on your phone browser or the Tumblr app.

PART V: AN ASYLUM MUSICAL [CONTINUED] See first post here.

The first Asylum Rags, worn during Gaslight and The Key, were the ones featured in the Fight Like A Girl music video (2014).

Reason to join the #flagtour2013 at The Troubadour in LA tonight: Because we will be wearing the filthy nightgowns used in the "Fight Like A Girl" video directed by @darrenbousman who will also be there tonight:)!!!  (x)

These costumes were designed to be the clothes that inmates of The Asylum for Wayward Victorian Girls wore during their internment. Emilie, as Emily-with-a-Y, also wore a key tied around her thigh with a ribbon for (the aptly named) The Key.

To finish out the show, the girls appeared in their finale look for One Foot in Front of the Other Foot, Mad Girl, and Thank God I’m Pretty. See them in their finale dance below!

Now, to close out this part of the series, there’s one more corset, a new mohawk, a music video, and certain faerie I need to talk about. 

First: The Fight Like A Girl music video.

Speaking strictly to costumes, the music video only debuted a few new ensembles. One appears to be a costume slated for the 2013 South American tour that never made it onstage, debuting here instead on an unnamed Bloody Crumpet / Inmate.

RIGHT: Busy in the costume shop, creating new magic for my S. American Plague Rats;)! twitpic.com/bcwhq5 what will you be wearing?? (x)

Below are some photos of other costumes from the video, for all the other boys and girls (and everyone otherwise undecided) featured on screen.

From left to right, up to down: Ulorin Vex, Veronica Varlow, Unknown Inmate, Emilie Autumn, Maggie Lally, Benjamin Michael Marsh, Craig Anton, Sarah Saviano, Unknown “Conjoined Inmates.” Costume Design by Emilie Autumn, Mildred Von Hildegard.

Read more about the FLAG music video here.

Second: The Asylum “Sparkle Heart” Corset and Mohawk v2 from the final Fight Like A Girl World Tour. 

The Sparkle Heart corset is another recycled costume, changed from its original iconic look to a new one.

Asylum Secrets: This corset pictured (the Opheliac corset) was not the first but I believe the second corset that I toured with as a primary costume piece. Years after its debut, it was reincarnated into something almost unrecognizable. Can you guess what very photographed piece it became? (I know I mentioned this somewhere in the past, but I don’t remember when or where, so let’s just pretend I’ve never said it before.) -W14A (x)
Yep. That’s the Opheliac corset. Full circle. From the drowned victim to the proud warrior she transformed. ~W14A (x)

The original mohawk was sold on eBay in May of 2013, after the Fight Like A Girl: North American Tour (2013) and the FLAG music video. A new mohawk debuted for the Fight Like A Girl World Tour (2013). This version featured a helmet-like design, presumably for easier removal and longevity as a headpiece.

Now, third and last: Moth.

Captain Maggots had scheduling conflicts with the last leg of the Fight Like A Girl World Tour, prompting the introduction of a new Bloody Crumpet. Known as Moth, or Anathema, Jill Evyln joined the Crumpets and took on the long-lost role of a faerie. Her costume featured two sets of wings (large and small), and she performed a fan dance in lieu of Maggot’s stilts and fire performances. 

Emilie crafted Moth’s wings as she had all her faerie wings in the past, teasing them on Flickr and Twitter with little to no context before the tour began.

And so here ends the tale of the Fight Like A Girl Tours. But that’s not to say the gates of the Asylum never opened again...

“And no one’s coming, Coming to take me home...” - Gaslight (2014)

Up Next... PART VI: THE ASYLUM EXPERIENCE

Remember to visit Part III and enter our giveaway! Ends 12/1/19.

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CORSETS AND STRIPED STOCKINGS: OUTFITTING THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS by She Fights Like A Girl

These articles are best viewed on desktop, but are mobile friendly. Please excuse any strange formatting on your phone browser or the Tumblr app.

This article was longer than intended and image-heavy, so it’s been split into two parts.

PART V: AN ASYLUM MUSICAL

“And if I end up with blood on my hands, Well, I know that you’ll understand ‘Cause I fight like a girl.” - Fight Like A Girl (2014)

And now we're back to the relatively recent past, when this blog was in its infancy and the fandom couldn't decide whether to stick with the forum or run rampant on Tumblr. Fight Like A Girl (the album) was still being recorded, but Emilie did a few live dates Down Under and decided to feature the title song from the unfinished album.

To my understanding, the Harvest Festival was another one of those concerts where the show was considerably downsized because of the cost of shipping props and set pieces. But where the South American tours hadn’t pulled back in the wardrobe department, the Harvest festival did. Emilie and the Crumpets performed in one costume for the entire set. But to make up for the lack of glam, EA debuted the first costume of the FLAG era.

This costume was worn for the cover art of Fight Like A Girl, and acted as the signature corset for the very first Fight Like A Girl World Tour (2012). 

“Asylum Secrets: All of my costumes over the years have been made to look as though someone had been murdered in them and come back from the dead to enact a fabulous revenge. To achieve this, I have employed techniques from melting fabrics with an industrial strength heat gun to spraying them with solutions that no human should ever breathe. In the case of the corset pictured, I burned it mercilessly with sticks of incense before painting the fabric to make it look moth-eaten.” - EA on the creation of the FLAG corset (June 25, 2018)

Speaking of the 2012 FLAG World Tour! While there were a lot of changes from The Door Tour and Harvest Festival, this tour is probably best remembered as a transition phase between eras. There were new costumes, but… the Rat Queen still introduced the show with 4 o’Clock. There were new set dressings, but… the shadow scrim was still main stage center. The new corset was mixed in with the Rat Queen ensemble and the structure of the show hadn’t changed terribly. New, but… kinda not?

Except for that Warrior Mohawk, of course.

Upper: WVC content / eBay listing photo. Lower: Making of the Warrior Mohawk from Emilie’s Flickr account.

This is the only tour where Emile wore a mohawk for the entirety(-slash-majority) of the show. Later concerts would see her removing it after the third song. There was some slight skepticism in the fandom with its debut, sparking discourse about everything from cultural appropriation to thematic relevance, but EA didn’t make much comment on the criticism.

“[The Warrior Mohawk] signified the transformation from victim to warrior. I feel that it is important for me to let go in order that I may go on to transform yet again and create new bits of wearable magic to surprise you with... This headpiece symbolized the birth of a new era in the Asylum…. This is the headdress of a tribal Queen…” - EA, 2012 eBay auction description.
“The Mohawk headdress represents the tribal, wild element of the sisterhood that formed during the imprisonment of the inmates, and shows that, once we escape and are on the rampage to take down our oppressors, we have indeed transformed from individual, helpless victims into a strong and beautifully terrifying tribal warriors.”  - EA for Natalie’s World, 2013 (x) (x)

Another costume that debuted on this tour was the MC of the Ophelia Gallery, who had his own brand-new number: Girls! Girls! Girls!

And as for its history...

(My best guess is that this photo originated in 2009, based on her hair.)

This character is a hint at the structure of the tour (and album) to come, where it would be less about the mad girls existing inside the Asylum and more about the story of how they got there, and what happened once they were interned. Allow me to stray from the costuming topic for just a moment…

A TANGENT: OF STAGE SHOWS AND ASYLUM CONTINUITY Spoiler filled ramblings of a long-time fan.

I’ve got a running theory that The Asylum for Wayward Victorian Girls, in all its forms, runs in parallel to the concerts. But they match each other in reverse. [Spoilers for the book to follow.]

Emilie’s first concert of the Opheliac brand was in a small venue in Chicago, alongside Lady Joo Hee. In The Asylum… book, Emily-with-a-y’s final days in the Asylum were spent with Sachiko (a character based on and formerly named Joo Hee). 

The Opheliac shows of 2007-2011 were all about the women in an Asylum singing songs and welcoming others home. Cannibals, ballerinas, pyrate captains, nymphomanics -- they all ran rampant with no apparent oversight except from Emilie herself. Rats crept and crawled onstage unbothered; toys, crumpets, and cupcakes were in abundance, often served alongside “tea,” and there isn’t a single cell door in sight.

Especially in the earliest days of the concerts, the set design had an emphasis on appearing hand-made -- not only because it was, but because it should be for these girls. This was the world EA branded for herself: a world of freedom, without judgement, earned by their own hands.

In The Asylum… book, after the Inmates take over and kill the doctors, this is very much what they do: impersonate medical professionals and welcome sick and not-so-sick girls home to protect them, nurture them, and give them the best life that the Victorian Age fails to do. They take over the Asylum and make it their own.

Then in the FLAG performances (2012-2014), the storytelling shifts. EA’s Asylum world is no longer loosely themed with inmates running amok, but adheres to a more rigid storytelling structure, detailing the struggles and despair of the girls locked up in The Asylum(-with-a-capital-T). It mirrors the bulk of the content in The Asylum… book. The carefree, whimsical stage dressings shift to bars -- a representation of the cells and gates in The Asylum. There might be a bear tied to a dreary grey harpsichord; you might even see a single rat scratching about. But they don’t have dominion here. There’s no freedom. Just the story of the girls trapped behind the bars.

And now we’re stalled on both sides of the street. We’ve met in the middle. The concerts started at the end of the book, and ended at the beginning. 

Ok, I’ll put my soapbox away. Let’s get back on track.

BACK TO BUSINESS

Where were we?

Oh, yes: Girls! Girls! Girls! and new costumes.

So let’s jump forward a little more, because there isn’t much else to say about Emilie’s costume style in the 2012 FLAG World Tour. Moving on to the 2013 Fight Like A Girl: North American Tour (and following European and Australian tours), a brand new show was brought to the stage. Full new stage set-up, new costumes, and a full new setlist. 

A costume I’ll be referring to as the “armored corset” replaced the moth-eaten FLAG ensemble in the opening number. Both Maggots and Veronica were given new costumes as well, replacing the costumes they had worn for years. 

Armored Corset, with varying amounts of sparkled (2013)
Maggie Lally; Captain Maggot / Captain Maggots
Veronica Varlow; The Naughty Veronica

The show design of this tour had Emilie in the armored corset with the mohawk for the two opening numbers, Fight Like A Girl and Time for Tea. The mohawk and the armored plates on her chest and hip were removed during the 4 o’Clock Reprise, leaving her without her armor for What Will I Remember? as the narrative moves back to the beginning of the story, before the “Uprising.”

On the subject of the corset: structurally, it was outfitted with snaps to attach the armor and allow for easy removal (see corset detail above, bottom right). The mohawk proved a more difficult challenge to remove, as it was securely clipped, pinned, and secured into EA’s hair. This ended up being corrected in the redesign that produced Mohawk 2.0.

Back to the show! By the time we get to Veronica’s Dominant fan dance, EA has removed the armor corset completely in the interim to prepare for the Girls! Girls! Girls! costume change. After Scavenger, the entire cast changes into Asylum Inmate Rags to perform Gaslight and The Key, and then changes back into full costume for the finale. Emilie wears the full FLAG ensemble from previous tours to close out the show, with varying headdresses. 

But I’m skipping over something important.

The Scavenger.

Inspired by Jim Henson’s The Dark Crystal, The Scavenger, a vulture-esque representation of Dr. Greavsely, appeared onstage for Scavenger. 

“This is the start of the original costume @maggotmagpie wears in our show, the one Greavesly wears in #AsylumMusical will be bonkers…” - EA on the Scavenger (February 7, 2016)
EA on Twitter/Twitpic 2012 (x)

The Scavenger was usually worn by Maggots as part of a stilt-walking performance, but if the venue couldn’t or wouldn’t allow for stunts onstage, Emilie would appear alone in the costume for the number. 

Scavenger has plenty of different “shows” (A show, B show, and C show for my theme park friends), with “A Show” being Captain Maggot on stilts.

Note: The Atlanta show featured here is a bit strange, as it uses the Stage Screen and the Asylum Bars during a tour that doesn’t feature the former. Emilie also isn’t in the normal costume for this number, using a personal scarf to cover her bloomers and bra.

“B Show” would be Emilie performing as the Scavenger, due to venue restrictions. This was actually the way Scavenger debuted, until Maggot’s first performance later in the tour. (See pictures and even more info here.)

“C Show” would be Moth’s performance in the final set of Fight Like A Girl tours, as seen below:

(There’s also “D Show,” (ha) which is this random dude performing as The Scavenger. I’ve yet to figure this out, but my guess is it was a technician stepping in at the last moment or a friend of EA from Oakland.)

Last, but not least, are the Asylum Rags. You’d think there wouldn’t be much to say here, but there is. Click on the continue link below to learn more about tattered costumes and the rest of the FLAG era, because Tumblr only allows 10 pictures per post.

Remember to visit Part III and enter our giveaway! Ends 12/1/19.

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CORSETS AND STRIPED STOCKINGS: OUTFITTING THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS by She Fights Like A Girl

These articles are best viewed on desktop, but are mobile friendly. Please excuse any strange formatting on your phone browser or the Tumblr app.

PART IV: WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS

“Why can I never go back to bed? Who's is the voice ringing in my head? Where is the sense in these desperate dreams? Why should I wake when I'm half past dead?” - 4 o’Clock (2007)

The Gate Tour, which featured a short set of European-exclusive dates in late 2008, was the first notable tone shift in the Opheliac tours. With Vecona’s departure from all things Asylum after The Plague Tour, new costumes were debuted and the Crumpet line-up changed. The Naughty Veronica, Captain Maggot, the Blessed Contessa, and Aprella became the main line-up through 2009 (with some appearances by Little Miss Sugarless).

Most notably, we see the introduction of the third white heart corset, as Vecona’s costumes had been auctioned to fans on eBay. 

EA Heart Corset / Third White Heart Corset, various sets, 2008-2011

More detail on this look later. 

Then there’s a one-tour-only appearance of The Gate “corset” (a possibly-pleather torso wrap that went over a corset).

And how could I forget? There’s also the Rat Queen herself!

While this particular costume has a deeper history than what I’ll talk about (which you can read about here), it’s most indicative of the tone shift in shows. “4 o’Clock” had been performed in almost every tour previously, but this was the first instance of a song being assigned a character. Not just Emilie singing it and the Crumpets playing along in their on-stage world, but the image of a rat crawling out of the Asylum; Emilie embodying a pivotal character from her book and letting the rats out to play. There’s structure here, matched with a more solid sort of storytelling.

The style of the Rat Queen changes from tour to tour. The mask-slash-headpiece gained more decorations, sparkles, and stones as tours went on, and the original corset with white stripes and a white heart (seen above) was later toned down to a grey-only design (seen below). Ear headbands from previous tours were used, as well as the rat tail; decorative sleeve parts were changed and remade between tours.

Emilie Autumn by Scott Legato (2011, right) and detail shots from 2012 eBay listing (left).
The Rat Queen and accessories through various tours (2008-2012)

The following tour was called “The Gate II,” as it almost immediately followed the former and didn’t need much distinction. Some pictures from that tour are featured above. There isn’t much notable change in costume design during this tour, but it is the beginning of what I’ll call SparkleGate, because everything that could go through a Bedazzler did.

Then, in late 2009, the Asylum as we knew it was turned upside down by a rather sudden shift in management. Emilie split with Trisol Records and thus ended a very large and lengthy chapter of her career, going on to re-release Opheliac under a new label, The End Records. This double disk re-release came complete with a new photo shoot by Don Scott, usually known as “The End Photoshoot,” or “Opheliac Industrial.”

The same outfit was featured in book readings preceding her next tour, Opheliac’s first North and South American tour, “The Key.”

The overall design concept becomes considerably more glam (see: SparkleGate) than steampunk-goth, while the set remained relatively the same as tours past. The Bloody Crumpets continued wearing costumes similar or the same as tours past. It’s not until Opheliac’s final tour, The Door, that we see the full sparkle of the Asylum’s glam phase.

The SparkleGlam Corset. Or, as it was more commonly referred to, the KinKats Ensemble. 

Again, the individual parts that make up this ensemble aren’t new. In typical EA style, this corset is a piece from former tours that was re-purposed and accosted with Swarovski crystals. 

This full ensemble made its debut in two parts: the KinKats photoshoot and the Medical Burlesque Performance. (See the whole burlesque performance here.) Fans who’ve been here for a while might remember this as the pasties and/or “GlitterTits” phase (roughly 2010 to 2011), when the fandom was in a constant turmoil over Twitter Rants and Playboy blurbs. 

By the time this ensemble it made its way off magazine covers and to stage, it had changed slightly in the bra, accessory, and wig department, and would continue to do so between tour legs (European, South and North American). But it was always the same general idea: pink, sparkly glam-rock. With really tall hats.

The rest of the stage costumes remained largely the same, featuring the Rat Queen (for the final time) and the white heart corset (#3). The Door Tour was advertised as the final tour for Opheliac and became something of a worldwide event, performed in separate legs across the world. By the official end of it, there was only one place left to go.

Australia.

Emilie was invited to perform in The Harvest Festival “Down Under” after The Door Tour had come to a close. The set ended up being a majority of Opheliac songs despite the record’s retirement from tour, but there was one new song that did debut:

Fight Like A Girl.

“It gives me strength to have somebody to fight for; I can never fight for myself, but, for others, I can kill.” -The Asylum for Wayward Victorian Girls (2009)

Up next... PART V: AN ASYLUM MUSICAL

Remember to visit Part III and enter our giveaway! Ends 12/1/19.

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CORSETS AND STRIPED STOCKINGS:  OUTFITTING THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS by She Fights Like A Girl 

These articles are best viewed on desktop, but are mobile friendly. Please excuse any strange formatting on your phone browser or the Tumblr app.

Note: The images in this post ended up being a lot bigger than any of the other sections, and it looks like Tumblr compressed them until they started to blur. See them in their full beauty here.

PART III: VECONA, SEAMSTRESS OF THE ASYLUM Featuring an exclusive interview with Vecona!

“I can’t tell you that because then I’d have to poison you, but I will say that, if a girl is born to be a Bloody Crumpet, we find each other, and she gets a cell in the Asylum.” - EA for VampireFreaks.com (2008)

Following the Double Door and WGN performances that debuted Opheliac, Emilie would go on to appear at Wave Gotik Treffen in Leipzig, Germany. It was the start of a summer festival tour spearheaded by her new record label, Trisol, and came with the introduction of three new Bloody Crumpets: the Lady Aprella, Little Lucina, and Captain Vecona.

Now, if you’ve come this far with me, you probably realize that everything I’ve been saying is almost entirely speculation, supported by whatever quotes I can find. Emilie doesn’t speak often on the subject of costuming, especially from the early days (mostly because no one really asks) and as I’m unable to barrage her with questions myself, I decided to reach out to the only other person who might give me the time of day.

Vecona.

If you aren't familiar with the original Pirate Captain of the Asylum, let me take a moment to introduce you to Captain Vecona, TeaKeeper (and seamstress!) of the Asylum.

Vecona was a Bloody Crumpet from 2007 to 2008, working with Emilie as early as 2006. She was the Captain of “Vecona’s Seamstress Navy” and was the acting Pirate Captain character for the live shows. She also designed and produced many costumes for Emilie during her tenure, lending her unique style to the world of The Asylum as we know it.

Vecona was kind enough to answer a few questions about these costumes, as well as the creative process behind her work. Her interview will make up the bulk of this article.

So! Before the summer festival tour of 2007, sometime in 2006, Vecona and Angst-im-Wald were brought on to design the Laced/Unlaced and 4 o’Clock EP photoshoot. 

[SFLAG:] I wanted to talk about the photo shoot for the 4 o’Clock EP, because it’s been a defining look for The Asylum world. How did this entire process play out? Were you part of the scenic design as well? [Vecona:] The photo shoot was planned and realized by Angst-im-Wald and myself. We both shared the same Tim Burton / Edward Gorey aesthetic and went for an black/white/gold backdrop that we build and painted ourselves and that I got the pleasure to decorate with decor I already had in my own home like the gold furniture, birds cage and clock.  Regarding the outfits, EA asked for striped bloomers and Victoria's dress in Tim Burton's movie “Corpse Bride” that I realized very close to the original design with the addition of a vintage lace yoke. Since there was no black/brown striped fabric available at the time I dyed everything beforehand. I sketched everything in advance and got her go for production via email. We met the first time at this photo shoot and it clicked, so the rest is history. 

4 o’Clock photoshoot by Angst-im-Wald; Vecona’s design sketches;  Vecona on set. [See higher quality images here]

Moving forward to the WGT performance in 2007 and the following festivals, the costume wardrobe ended up being a mix of EA's existing costumes and the Crumpet's personal wardrobes.

Emilie @ WGT (upper) and M’era Luna (lower) Festivals.  Featuring the “Opheliac Skirt” (both), Early Opheliac Heart Bloomers (upper), and VECONA “Sacred Heart” Corset (lower). 2007.
EA at various festivals, 2007

How much of the wardrobe that we saw on tours from 2007-2008 was crafted specifically for the show? How did things change between tours? For the very first show at Wave Gothik Treffen in Leipzig 2007 I brought what I already had in my costume wardrobe (Baroque Pirate). For the next tours I made several pieces that could be mixed and matched to provide a cohesive picture on stage especially for this purpose. So I worked with a specific color scheme for every “collection.” 2007 was mostly brown, gray, muddy brown, tea dyed steampunk inspired [and] 2008 [was] cream-white, blush pink and very boudoir. EA had very specific pieces in mind for herself like the “Hurt heart” corset I did or the victorian inspired dress for the photo shoot. Everything else I did on my own without any guidelines. This way I was happy and able to bring my brand to the show.

Emilie’s VECONA “Hurt Heart” Corset (Second White Heart Corset) VECONA Pink Pirate / Captain Vecona Costume, 2008

The stage design EA and I crafted together at my house within a few days before the start of each tour. It was really fun to paint and decorate tea sets, dolls and realizing the big shadow screens! 

These costumes have a historical root in the Victorian era, but exist in a fantasy world. Where did you start with your design process, and how did it evolve creatively? Usually have a color scheme I like to work with and collect all materials like fabrics, laces, trimmings and dye. Then I start making the basic design in a preferred silhouette like an underbust corset with a fishtail hoop skirt and let the fabrics speak to me during the process. It all comes together while working on the garment with a little help from sketches I did beforehand. Think about a painter who has the main outlay in mind at the beginning and adds elements until the final mood and story comes to life.  When the main pieces are finished I work on the accessories, like trimmed stockings, painted shoes, wigs and head pieces. Of course the collections got refined when I got to know everyone better and could match the costumes to each crumpet's personality. So Aprella's way to dance on pointe inspired my to make her “Broken Swan” ballerina tutu that she loved so much and wore every show. 

Aprella in "Broken Swan" (above) Veronica in Striped Longline Corset (below)

Which costume presented the biggest challenge to take from the page to the stage? Which costume are you most proud of, or are most fond of? The biggest costume challenge ever was not for the tour but a VECONA fashion show at the Gala Nocturna organized by Viona-Art in Antwerp. It was an opulent Octopus ballerina outfit with stuffed tentacles and tons of mother-of-pearl buttons. It was really tough to fight gravity with a wire construction within the piece and hours of hand sewing because it was impossible to handle that thing with a sewing machine! Unfortunately it was too huge to go on tour with us! I still own and treasure this one!

Vecona designs and costumes, various

So there you go! A little insight into the Asylum, its seamstresses, and the creative forces behind the striped walls we've become so familiar with. Vecona stayed with EA through The Plague Tour, departing from the Bloody Crumpets shortly before The Gate.

Be sure to check out Vecona's clothing line at Vecona Vintage, and if you'd like to purchase a piece of Asylum history, she's listed many of her pieces on her Etsy store! This includes bloomers, props, full costume ensembles, corsets, and jewelry.

But wait! There’s more!

Vecona kindly donated some small pieces of stage jewelry to give away! These unique, one-of-a-kind, hand made items will go home to a lucky follower who reblogs, likes, and comments/replies with their favorite EA or Bloody Crumpet memory down below! I’ve also included one VECONA brand necklace from my personal collection (not a stage item). Winner will be announced on December 1st, 2019. 

Up Next… PART IV: Wayward Victorian Girls

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CORSETS AND STRIPED STOCKINGS: OUTFITTING THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS by She Fights Like A Girl

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PART II: DROWNING OPHELIA

“Follow me and see how well I hide Worship me thus from a distance Trust me you don’t want to miss this First I’ll take the bluest vein I own Then I’ll make a tourniquet…” -Russian Bride (unreleased song, 2005)

Yes, I know. The closing lines of the last article were a tad dramatic. So I’ll attempt to bring myself back down to earth to talk about how the faerie turned into an Opheliac.

So. The end of 2004 into early 2005. If there’s anything to be said about EA’s style back then, it’s “Mall Goth.”

Don’t look at me like that, she said it herself.

One of the common things EA wore around this time (or at least posted on the internet) were tank tops with hand-written phrases. It’s not unique to this era - she did it during Enchant, too - but it is a great transition point to kick this article off on. From “Mall Goth,” to “Old School,” and “Cocky Von Murdertits,” we saw a continued trend of a DIY closet that made its way to a specific photoshoot.

2005’s “Early Opheliac” photoshoot by Paul Natkin.

Even though you can’t see it in the full photoshoot, “Are You Suffering?” was hand-written on one of the tank tops she wore for her first promotional images for Opheliac. Jewels were hand-sewn onto a bleeding, tea-stained heart on her chest. Ophelia rose and the Faerie Queene fell…

“Now, everybody knows that a faerie cannot die, for death is made of bone and flesh and blood and mortal things. But faeries are not flesh - they are made instead of wispy, weepy willows, and they live as long as they have got their wings…  One night, a faerie found a mortal walking near her lake, and he gave her quite a panic, and she gave him quite a start. And when the morning came and she crept home so quietly, ‘twas not a faerie soul could tell she’d given up her heart. Now, I know I needn’t tell you what it is to fall and fall and fall and fall until you’ve given up your life to one you love, and the only way that she could stay within his arms was to lose her charms, and laugh and cry and live and die as any mortal does... So! She flew to find her lover, and he took her undercover to a little room, as bride and groom, where they might share a bed. And before she had the chance to lift her knife and end her faerie life by cutting of her wings to live a mortal life instead, he had caught her up into his arms and said, ‘my dear, don’t be alarmed, but all the gentle kindness I have shown is at its end, but, why cry you so? It’s time you know my favourite game, to murder, maim, and tear the wings off winged things, my hand I humbly lend.’” -A short story from the Enchant re-release (2007)

This is the official death of Enchant. This ensemble, without a wing in sight, was featured on Emilie’s first television appearance and during the 2006 Opheliac release party at Chicago’s Double Door venue (below).

WGN performance (left, right); EA at The Double Door (center)

Enter Opheliac: bleeding hearts, water, and suicide; red on white, chipped black fingernail polish, and a perfect little heart painted on her cheek. Emilie’s hair moved from pink to red, often adorned with curls, and her makeup was more reminiscent to a porcelain doll than a faerie.  

“I never intended to be, but I am the Opheliac I’m talking about… I’m not talking about Shakespeare on this record, I’m talking about me… And the absolute terror I felt upon realizing in one blinding flash of English Breakfast tea-induced sobriety that I had become this archetype… That I was not special or untouchable or magical, that I was bleeding flesh and broken heart and i was being driven mad and I was letting it happen. I was letting it kill me.” -EA for Orkus Magazine No.3 (2006)

This is the style we see in Casey Mitchell’s “Opheliac” photoshoot, which brought plenty of iconic images onto the scene. We see repeated costumes from earlier days featured here, as well as some new items. 

This “classic” style became extremely consistent throughout all Opheliac eras, but here at the beginning we see it in its early form. Emilie spoke about the creation of the signature heart-and-lace top on Instagram in April 2019.

“I also have that costume folded in a bin 5 feet from me at this moment, and it has an interesting story all its own... It was made from the fabric of an old wedding dress purchased from a thrift store on Chicago’s south side for $5 when I had no money to shop for proper material. I largely hand-sewed it, finishing it in the green room of The Tonight Show, and I designed it with open armpits so that I wouldn’t be restricted when playing my violin.” (x)

Additionally, Emilie also costumed her Bloody Crumpets (at this time intended to be a backing band). 

Emilie Autumn, Lady Joo Hee, and Jacinda at the Double Door (2006)

This is also one of the only concerts Emilie wears a veil in, which I think is very sad, because it’s one of my favorite aesthetics from the era.

In the summer of 2006, shortly after the Double Door concert, Emilie would sign with Trisol Records and officially release Opheliac on September 1, 2006.

And so we press on forward to 2007, considered by most to be the start of the proper “Opheliac Era.” It would start with EA onstage for the first time at WGT in Germany, where she debuted alongside a group of three new Bloody Crumpets. And gasp! A certain pyrate captain doth appear on the horizon…

Next up… PART III: Vecona, Seamstress of the Asylum Featuring an exclusive interview with Vecona herself!

“I simply could not sit on this material any longer, and so I unleash upon YOU ALL, the few, the brave, and the bloomered… songs of women, water, and madness.” -EA’s Journal Entries (January 22, 2006)
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CORSETS AND STRIPED STOCKINGS:  OUTFITTING THE ASYLUM FOR WAYWARD VICTORIAN GIRLS by She Fights Like A Girl 

Welcome to a brand new series exploring the design and history of the costumes used throughout Emilie Autumn’s career! This is structured to be a general overview of how costumes were made and designed over the years, and how one style evolved into the next. But don’t scroll through too quickly! You never know what secrets you might find hidden within...

Feel free to drop me a line here with any questions or corrections. Please check the tags for any honorable mentions that helped me along my way, and visit the credits page linked at the bottom for my sources.

PART I: ENCHANT & THE FAERIE QUEENE

“If from the height of space you dare to fall, You’re sure to find the meaning of it all…” - The Enchant Puzzle

Let’s take a look back to the turn of the century: 2000 and 2001, when Emilie was a featured model for “Enchant Clothing and Costume.” There’s a lot of information around about this company and its origins available online, but in the interest of not digging up any graves, I’ll be restricting my coverage to a few times.

First: the Victorian Corset.

This is a single thread that spans across eras. It was there at the very beginning and kept on appearing well into the early Opheliac Era, even being featured on Emilie’s second poetry publication, Your Sugar Sits Untouched. 

It was one piece in an expansive wardrobe designed with Baroque, Rococo, and Victorian influence. The second signature item was the dress below, featured on one copy of the “Violin promo” (Emilie’s teenage classical demo album) and in the lost violin podcast from the Early Opheliac era. 

More on other Enchant Clothing & Costume items here.

Pushing on into the “Enchant Era,” we saw a full fledged faerie burst out onto the fantasy-pop-rock scene. Off stage, her style was more faerie-rock than victoriandustrial, matched with the bright pink hair her fandom would grow accustomed to for years. Onstage, she wore hand-made faerie ensembles, often matched with a pair of wings and sparkling accessories. 

As far as the production of these pieces, there isn’t much to say. A lot of her costumes were reportedly obtained via second-hand stores, either in fabric or clothing form, which she would then alter herself (as seen with one of the dresses above, notably worn on tour with Courney Love & The Chelsea).

However, there is something to say about how EA made her wings! She was featured on HGTV’s Crafter’s Coast to Coast, showcasing the way she made faerie wings and soaps. 

Shortly before 2013’s Fight Like A Girl World Tour, Emilie teased Moth’s faerie wings online with process photos - but we’ll talk about those later. 

Then, of course, there’s the Enchant Wings and the Faerie Queene herself, and all the prizes one might win from 2003′s “Enchant Puzzle.”

Enchant Wings, with detail shots from 2014 eBay auction.

These prizes remain unclaimed, but they are one of the final notes left behind from this era. Enchant was a love song to medieval design and fantasy folklore, brought to the modern era on the strings of a violin. 

But by the end of 2004, we were already starting to say goodbye to the Faerie Queene as Emilie began work on her new album, Opheliac, and her Shakespearian influences began to mix with industrial alt-rock. The heart under her eye appeared during her last Enchant concert in October 2004. During her time with Courtney Love & The Chelsea, she debuted an iconic white top on The Tonight Show (2004), and later appeared on WGN alongside Billy Corgan in some familiar striped stockings.

It was with this that the faerie wings were stored away and the fandom would have to turn their backs on the enchanted forests from whence they’d come, faced instead with the tall, jagged spikes of the gates of a place only known as “The Asylum.”

Next up… PART II: DROWNING OPHELIA

“I am all these things of course, but the faerie wings help to suspend all that for a moment and say, ‘for this short time, I am a being beyond limitation or self-consciousness or restriction, and you can be too.’”
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