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#panniers – @sartorialadventure on Tumblr
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Sartorial Adventure

@sartorialadventure / sartorialadventure.tumblr.com

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oldrags
Ballgown, 1780-85 France, Musée des Tissus de Lyon
This dress, also called “robe parée”, is a ball dress. The skirt is worn over a pannier which, early 1780, was less ample than the one used under the dress “à la française”. The decoration consists of appliqué painted flowers, gauze flounces and extremely refined embroideries. It exemplifies the dresses Rose Bertin, Marie-Antoinette’s dressmaker, used to create for the queen.
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Chemise, Stays, & Panniers

c.1760-1780

Throughout the eighteenth century, the silhouette of a woman’s dress was formed with a corset or a pannier. In order to push up the bust for a feminine outline, the [stays were] framed with pieces of whalebone. First appearing in the early eighteenth century, the pannier became a mandatory item for court dress up until the time of the French Revolution. As the skirt widened in the mid-eighteenth century, the pannier was modified and split into left and right halves. Such huge panniers frequently became the subject of caricatures.

Kyoto Costume Institute (AC337 77-12-51, AC7682 93-1-4, AC6289 89-4-6)

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lierdumoa

[Transcript] When making clothes is your main hobby, eventually you’re gonna get to a place where you have more clothes than is honestly reasonable or useful to you.

(I) swear this problem is probably ten times worse when you’re into costuming. The amount of stuff that I have that I made ’cause it sounded fun, but I’ve never actually worn it anywhere is, frankly, embarrassing.

But that’s actually kind of the great thing about tiktok.

Now when I make something excessively elaborate for literally no reason and with nowhere to wear it, I can just show you guys instead!

When I need to straighten out my layers I just: [jumps up and down]

Today the look is “18th century garden party” and the occasion is nothing.

Weirdly this is one of the cheapest big fancy costumes I’ve ever made. When I made it I was pretty well aware that I was probably never actually gonna end up wearing it anywhere, so it’s just made out of quilt cotton. I paid, I think, five or six dollars a yard, and then it’s about twenty yards to make something like this.

There’s a matching hat, by the way.

So lately, I’ve been trying not to think of my hobby in terms of, “Do I need this?” “Will I wear it?” Honestly, that’s really just not the point. I make stuff like this because I think it’s fun to make. And I feel like that should be enough. [/Transcript]

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• Wedding dress.

~ From the source: Wedding dress in silk from Nørre Vosborg. In 1766, the 24-year-old Mette Bagges Kjær married the merchant Peder Tang in Ringkjøbing Church dressed in the yellow-green silk dress. It is characteristic of the time and the bourgeois environment that the wedding dress was in colorful fabric. Then it could be used on festive occasions throughout life. Only the wealthiest at this time were married in a white wedding dress. According to the family tradition, Peder Tang gave his fiancé fabric to the wedding dress and money to buy jewelry. However, Mette thought that the dress was enough in itself, and used the money for silverware. The accompanying bridal shoes were of the same fabric as the dress. Mette Bagges Kjær did not use her beautiful dress many times. She died in a baby bed just under a year after the wedding.

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