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Sartorial Adventure

@sartorialadventure / sartorialadventure.tumblr.com

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disc80s

terps: Epinetron” (επίνητρον) is a ceramic thigh protector that women in Ancient Greece used while spinning wool on their thighs. Penelope is usually pictured with one so it is associated with an activity you do while waiting. For Ulysses to come back, for the crisis to end. [...] I made this epinetron during the lockdown and sculpting it on my thigh, working on top of it for hours, I felt that I replicated the work of the women before me. The “spinning women” as they were called by male archaeologists, who perceived them as unethical because they were working.

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kore-eleusis

A Greek Epinetron, a ceramic cover for the knees used by women so that their clothing would not be spoiled while weaving. Typically offered as a wedding gift, it was often taken to a woman's grave. 425-420 BC. National Museum, Athens.

The epinetron (Greek: ἐπίνητρον, pl.: epinetra, ἐπίνητρα; "distaff"); Beazley also called them onoi, sg.: onos) was a shape of Attic pottery worn on the thighs of women during the preparation of wool, not unlike a thimble for the thigh.[1] Decorated epinetra were placed on the graves of unmarried girls, or dedicated at temples of female deities.[citation needed]

Because of the strong association between wool-working and the Ancient Greek ideal of women and wives—as in the case of Penelope weaving in the Odyssey—it is a shape associated with the wedding.[2]

The theme of its decoration tended to be related to its use. The top surface was often incised to make it rough in order to rub the wool fibers. There was often a female head placed at the closed end, where the knee was covered. Epinetra were often decorated, sometimes depicting black figure Amazon women, as in the case of an epinetron painted by the Sappho painter between 500 and 490 BCE.[3]

The base of an epinetron from Athens, depicting a lion and a pegasus

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omgthatdress

ily, menswear guy

Clothing has denoted social class since... oh wait since forever. Like literally. Sumptuary laws, which often designate WHO is allowed to wear WHAT (styles, fabrics, colors, accessories) have been around since ancient times. Certain clothing has denoted whether you are in the royal court and what specific rank you have (like the colors of wonsam in Korea - which also has this fascinating history with enormous wigs and whether they're legal). Prostitutes in many medieval European cities had a particular "uniform" to make them immediately visually identifiable from "virtuous" women, and Jewish people in medieval Europe likewise have been forced to wear certain kinds of clothing and accessories so everybody knew they were Jewish (yes, like the Jewish star during the Holocaust). Women in England and France during the French Revolution cut their hair hella short to indicate their sympathy with the French aristocracy, who had all their hair cut off in preparation for execution at the guillotine. Women wearing trousers in various situations from the 19th century to the late 20th century could be a revolutionary political act. Black women in the 1960s wore their hair in an afro as an expression of pride in their heritage and culture. I wear t-shirts with trans-inclusive Pride flags - and lots of other US Americans wear Confederate flags - to advertise adherence to particular causes, political parties, and identities. Dress is inherently, universally, eternally, deeply intertwined with politics.

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Photo of five New York sisters from a family estate, names now sadly lost. A great example of daytime fashion in the teens - you can really see the loose fit in their walking suits that would evolve into the loose-fitting 1920s gowns in the next decade. Hemlines are a bit higher, and the lady in front is wearing spats over her boots. You can get a decent look at her bag. Some good views of 1910s hairstyles for Black American women.

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chic-a-gigot

L'Art et la mode, no. 41, vol. 11, 11 octobre 1890, Paris. Robe en velours violet évêque, formant par devant casaque dont le pan, coupé à mi-jupe, est orné d’une broderie et d’une frange de perles violet et or. Cette casaque s’ouvre sur une jupe de damas paille broché de plumes violettes, terminée dans le bas en créneaux sur un bord violet. Corsage croisé; manches en broché. Dessin de M. de Solar. Bibliothèque nationale de France

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