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SarahTheCoat

@sarahthecoat

mostly Sherlock. The New Semester my dreamwidth
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Fabric types and summer heat

The world is seeing record temperatures again. A lot of people find little comfort in their summer wardrobe these days, so it's important to be aware of how fabric types can influence your well-being in hot weather.

The following list of fabrics is by no means exhaustive, but it covers the basics.

Some of the fabrics mentioned below are expensive when bought new. You'll often find them for cheap in second-hand shops and on thrifting platforms though. I'm literally wearing a €5 linen underskirt, a €1 silk top, and a €7 silk summer dress right now, just to give an example.

General notes:

If you don't know where to start, try to stick to light-weight fabrics made of natural fibres. Look for light colours and open weaves.

You might be tempted to cover as little skin as possible in order to keep cool, but this leaves your skin vulnerable to sunburn. A thin layer of linen will often be more efficient at keeping you cool than leaving your skin bare.

Don't forget to wear sunscreen! Even if your skin type doesn't burn easily, it will still lower your chances of skin cancer. Look into sunscreens for children if you have sensory issues: they tend to be more sensory-friendly.

(Image source 1) [ID 1: a gray linen fabric with a tight weave.] / (Image source 2) [ID 2: a gray linen fabric with a loose weave.]

Polyester (to avoid):

Are your summer clothes making you ridiculously sweaty? Check the tag: you're probably wearing polyester.

Polyester is a synthetic fabric derived from petroleum: it's basically a plastic. It's strong, cheap, and stain resistant, which makes it a popular fabric. Even though a lot of summer clothes are made out of polyester, it's one of the worst fabrics to wear in summer.

Polyester is neither absorbent nor breathable, and captures heat. It traps sweat between your skin and your clothes, and it won't let you cool down. This leaves you feeling sticky and overheated. It can also cause static cling, which can be uncomfortable.

Not all synthetic fabrics are bad in summer: a lot of UV-blocking clothes are made of synthetics for example and can be a real life saver if you're sensitive to the sun. Try to avoid polyester if you can, though.

(Image source) [ID: close-up on a blue tightly woven polyester fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]

Cotton:

Cotton is a natural fibre that makes for a soft, durable, and breathable fabric. It allows air to circulate around your body which helps to keep you cool and get rid of sweat. It's a good basic choice.

Cotton has one downside: it's very absorbent, but takes a while to dry. If the weather's making you sweat excessively, the sweat can pool into the fabric of your cotton clothes. This will make them wet, resulting in visible sweat stains that can feel uncomfortable and will take a long time to dry.

If you can't stand how cotton feels, check out chambray weaves or bamboo textiles. They have similar properties to plain-weave cotton, but tend to be more sensory-friendly.

(Image source) [ID: close-up on a faded yellow tightly woven cotton fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]

Linen:

Linen is the absolute king of hot weather fabrics. It's strong, absorbent, dries quickly, and is very breathable. It cools you down, but won't make you feel sticky because any sweat it absorbs will evaporate fast.

I frequently layer multiple thin loose-fitting linen garments when it's hot. Loose layers allow for air to circulate between your clothes while protecting your skin from the sun. It almost functions as a wearable air-conditioner.

Note that linen is prone to wrinkling. If this bothers you, know that linen requires extra effort during laundry to avoid this.

(Image source) [ID: close-up on a gray woven linen fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]

Silk:

Silk is yet another natural fibre that makes for a strong, quick-drying, and pretty breathable fabric. It's soft and cool to the touch, which makes it a great sensory choice.

Silk is not as breathable as cotton or linen, but dries very quickly. This means it might make you sweat more than cotton or linen does, but once the fabric's moist it will dry faster.

Note that sweat stains on silk tend to be pretty visible. Silk's also prone to static cling.

(Image source) [ID: close-up on a light brown tightly woven silk fabric that folds into a swirl at its centre.]

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sarahthecoat

sweat is also corrosive to silk, so it's important to wash it promptly. the label may say dry clean only, but you can almost certainly at least hand wash and drip dry a silk garment, or zip it in a mesh bag and machine wash gentle (always drip dry).

i love my cotton sundresses and sleeveless tops for hot weather. the calico fabric is just crisp enough to stand a little away from my body, where a tshirt would drape limply agaisnt me. and linen is THE BEST! <3

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Do you have any recommendations for darning the underarm of a sweater so it isn't too tight (pulling up the side of the sweater when the arm is raised) or too loose (leading to bunching when the arm is down). Do you think darning on the bias (with the warp threads going diagonally) would help?

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Darning on the bias

That's a tricky balance to achieve, but darning on the bias would probably help. You could also try to patch the hole with a scrap of fabric that has the same weight and amount of stretch as the original sweater (or knit your own).

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sarahthecoat

yeah, add a little gusset between the sleeve and the body to lengthen the side/underarm seam line. if raising your arm pulls the whole side of the garment up, open that bit of the armscye at the underarm, and insert a little "melon shape", ie, the shape of the rind of a wedge of melon.

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I am attempting to darn a pair of jeans, a pair of holes down the leg worn through with the original threads still intact. should I remove the threads or should I just sew through them?

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(Image source) [ID: close-up on three parallel rips in a leg of a pair of blue jeans. The edges of the rips have a lot of loose fibers, and loose white threads run across the holes.]

Does the hole kind of look like this? With loose fuzz around its edges, and the original white threads still running through it?

The easiest way to get started on darning a hole like this is to clean it up first. Try to carefully cut away those white threads, and to remove the fuzz a bit if possible.

Tumblr-user Delicatefury has a great tutorial on darning jeans if you'd like to see how to tackle a hole like this.

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sarahthecoat

i love that people are patching jeans again! back when i was in school, patching jeans was a real art form, and definitely a cool factor.

nowadays, if i just want functional vs artistic, i will replace the front thigh/knee are, using the back of the legs of a pair of "parts jeans". slit open the seams of the parts jeans, and trim away the worn out seat, saving the good fabric. on the jeans to be renovated, just open the seam that isn't flat felled (usually this is the outseam) from just below the pocket to below the knee, for access. place the salvaged fabric so it will replace the worn thigh/knee area, and so the outseam edges line up (so you can close up that seam after the big patch is done) sew down the edges of the big patch EXCEPT along that outseam. trim away the worn fabric underneath (i like to serge or zig zag the patch first, and then sew it in place, and then serge off the old material). now close up the side seam, and enjoy your renovated jeans!

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