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Cos-Blog

@ruffleshuffle-blog

Hey, my name is Amy! In the cosplay community I go by embarrassing names like Spwinkles (on DeviantART) or Rosebud (on Cosplay.com, ACP) This blog is for cosplay--my costume updates, pictures, features, reblogs of others cosplays, and maybe a tutorial...
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kikicraft

I was recently commissioned to make a Huntress mask. I really enjoyed the process and thought it would be nice to share my findings with the internet! Enjoy! 1. Create your pattern. Use paper to draft a pattern of your mask. I find that folding a large piece of paper and drawing on one side is the most effective. You can cut out your pattern and unfold to test the mask. Repeat this as many times as necessary to achieve your perfect mask. 

2. Transfer pattern to foam. You know that cheapy foam paper you can find at Walmart or a craft stores? Use an xacto knife to carefully cut your mask out of foam.  3. Cut out your Worbla. You can skip this step if you are fine with a less sturdy mask. Basically you want to place your foam on the Worbla and trace 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger onto the Worbla. Then cut it out! (dont forget the eye holes!) *tip* if the worbla is too hard for you to cut— heat it up slightly before you cut it! 4. Fuse the Worbla and the Foam. Heat up the Worbla around the edges. then simply use your fingers to shape the Worbla around the foam. you can heat up the Worbla as you go. be careful not to heat up the foam too much because it will burn! 5. Details? Now is the time to add any battle damage (using a wood burner or heating up the Worbla and pressing random tools into it). or any details. Such as a trim boarder or rivets.  *tip* you can heat up and roll Worbla to make things like Screw heads. make sure to also heat up the Worbla section you’re applying the object to so it will stick! 6. Shape the mask to your face:  Heat up the Worbla side of your mask, and the Worbla trim-sides on the other side. heat up the foam side lightly— and then press the mask to your face or to a plaster mask or a model or something that can withstand minor heat. It will be slightly hot— you can use a paper towel or two in between the Worbla and your face if you’re chicken about it :) Hold the Worbla there until its cool. Looking into a mirror while shaping it might help you. 

7. Create a way to secure it: How will the mask attach to your face? Now is the time to make holes for ties or D-hooks to the sides for straps later on. You can heat up scraps of Worbla to attach things like D-hooks or metal loops. Remember the Worbla acts like glue but really only holds to itself. you need to heat up both pieces of Worbla to activate it!

8. Prepping for paint: once the mask is how you like it— it’s time to prep it for paint. Do you want a rough bumpy surface? then use spray primer on the mask and begin your paint job. If you want a smoother-finish— then you’ll have to use layers of Wood Glue or Gesso to prime the surface until it’s smooth. Make sure to wait until each layer is dry before applying the next layer. 

9. Paint: Use spray paint or acrylics or whatever at this point. Most types of paint will work. If your project is one solid color— consider spraying multiple light coats and sand between each coat. *tip* Once your paintjob is dry— use a large dry brush and a bit of black paint and lightly “dust” over your mask. You can even flick along the edges/rims of your mask to make it have more dimension.  *tip* A good way to match your mask to your costume AND get it done faster— is to simply cover it with the fabric you made your costume with ;) Don’t use hot glue for this as it will bubble up and not stick very well.  10. Finishing: Crystal Clear Enamel spray is a great way to seal and protect your paint job. Just spray it right over your mask. make sure your mask is dry before you spray or some colors may run. I recommend 2-4 coats.  Another good way to finish your mask is to glue some soft material such as felt to the inside of your mask. (unless you plan to adhere it with spirit gum! leave it as-is or use vinyl on the backside to allow the spirit gum to stick to your face better!) Add your straps and you’re done! HAPPY MASKING! Let me know if you have any questions through my facebook page!  Please like and share! For more: www.facebook.com/worldofkikicraft

Source: facebook.com
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**Tutorial: Making Stretch Boot Covers** See this tutorial here!

A lot of people have been talking about my boot covers in the last couple days, and although I felt like I never took enough pictures I think it was time to make this. I also have added some tips about stretch fabric in here!

Please note that the plastic wrap + tape body patterns is great for making anything that is skin tight, or even body forms! I use this process anytime I need to make a fosshape mold for a limb or even making my Ming Corset. It’s just a great process that’s cheap and effective overall. 

cosplay tutorial reblog

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I’ve had a surprising number of questions about the invisible shoes that I made for my Jack Frost costume.  So, by request, here’s a step-by-step tutorial!

Many popular costumes call for bare feet (Jack Frost, L, Toph, Medusa, Radical Edward and Inuyasha, to name a few) — but running around barefoot is unsafe, unsanitary and forbidden by many public health codes and venue policies. These “invisible” shoes will keep your feet safely off the floor without spoiling the barefooted look of your costume. Best of all, they’re easy to make and cost only a few dollars!

A great tutorial for all those barefoot Disney characters!

This would have been really handy for Toph xDD

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How to take your wig from gross to great!

This isn’t a new method at all, but instead my results using this tutorial.

While the before shot is pretty terrible photo quality to begin with, you can see the wig is basically a ratty, gross-looking mess.

  • Find a tank or bucket and empty a capful of fabric softener into it (more softener if your wig is longer).
  • Add enough water to submerge the wig, and make sure to flip it inside out before you put it in the water. Swish it around to make sure it’s saturated, and then let it soak for a few days. I left mine is for a little over two days, but I would suggest leaving it in closer for the five days the original tutorial suggests.
  • Lay the wig out on a towel to dry. I didn’t wash out the fabric softener, and when it was damp instead of dripping, I put it on a wig stand.
  • After it’s completely dry, brush through it with a wig brush, or at least a brush with wire teeth. Plastic teeth will create static and no one wants that.
  • If you need a wig brush, try checking out beauty stores. Failing that, you can usually find wire brushes at pet stores, and they work as well as any wig brush.
  • Spray lightly with dry shampoo or sprinkle with talcum powder. Brush your wig again after a few minutes to help disperse the powder and keep your wig from looking chalky. You may experience a small amount of shedding during the brushing process, but it shouldn’t be anything too severe.

And there you have it!

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firewolf826

Sometimes you end up cosplaying a character with a really crazy hairline, and you think “How am I going to make THAT?”

Maybe you’ve already learned about lace-front wigs and how they appear more natural-looking. Maybe you’ve even heard of wig ventilation, which is the method for individually adding hairs into the lace of a lace-front wig. If you’ve gotten that far, you’ve probably noticed you need special tools, called ventilating hooks/needles, and they can be costly and hard to acquire. Fear not! I am here to show you a few methods to ventilate hair with just normal supplies you can find at your craft and sewing store!

That’s right, you can ventilate hair with just a normal sewing needle!!!

Reblog for future reference, I’ve read about this before. Ahhhh I love lacefronts!

Now this is cool

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firewolf826

This seamless trim technique is a method I’ve been using for years to add custom trim to my costumes without any top-stitching at all. Similar in a way to bias tape, but with many key differences in implementation and results. No one taught me this technique, but now I’m teaching it to you! Please read through all the instructions below before asking any further questions, and happy trim-making! C:

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aicosu

LOOK AT THIS MAGIC!

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So on Friday I told you how to make superhero boots. (By the way, 1800 notes? Thanks!) Today I’m going to show you how to make custom thigh-highs (or socks in general.) We’ll just call it the sock weekend.

Here I’m making Tomoe Mami’s thigh-highs. (I’ve intentionally made them in brown, as I didn’t like the purple.) Do you know how hard it is to find thigh-highs in the right color, with that pinstripe? Not to mention, not everyone fits into those “one size fits most” socks; my thighs never co-operate with the things and they end up around my knees constantly. As a result I’ve taken to making my own.

You will need:

  • Standard sewing tools (measuring tape, scissors, pins, sewing machine.) I used a serger for much of it but it’s really not necessary at all.
  • Sufficient amount of a stretch fabric; the stretch will have to run around your leg at the very least. I used about 30”x45” and had plenty of scrap, so you should be safe with a yard.
  • Enough wide elastic to make bands that fit snugly around your thighs.

That’s really it.

Cut your fabric into rectangles, the widest enough to fit the widest point of your leg. I freehand this because you really don’t need that much of it. Put one rectangle aside and focus on the first sock. Sew up the length and across the bottom. You have essentially just made a large wine bag for your thigh.

Sexy.

Stick your foot in this Sexy Wine Bag. Start pinning it so that your wine bag clings to you more like a sock. Go down to your ankle; it’s way easier to do this in two parts. When you are pleased with the tightness, carefully take it off your leg without disturbing the pins. It’s usually necessary to make a few adjustments to the pins once you have it off, just so they’re laying flat/even. 

Sew up that fit you just made. You should end up with a sock that ends up with a club foot. (See picture. Laugh.)

Now do your foot. You may want to round it out over the toe so you don’t get little elf points. Doing the seam along the bottom of your foot is the absolute easiest, imho, because you get a better fit with less finicking, but you will also end up having the seam along the underside of your foot, which I know bothers some people. If this is weird to you, then do the seam along the side… you just might not have as good of a fit as you want without a lot of finicking if your fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch.

Carefully take it off, adjust the pins for neatness, and sew again.

Trace this finished sock against your other Sexy Wine Bag and sew that one, too. If you’re super into it, trace the sock off on paper, too, so that you have a pattern you can reuse next time without having to do any pinning/fitting. 

YOU HAVE SOCKS NOW :) 

But these socks don’t have finished top hems, are let’s be real, are liable to fall down if they’re left all on their own. You could just fold them over and hem ‘em, but I like elastic in there for support.

Put on your socks (inside out!), make your elastic bands, and slide the bands on overtop your socks. Fold the top edge of the sock down over the elastic band and pin it in place. Go all the way around your leg –– be careful doing this, as it can be tricky to pin against the underside of your thigh when you can’t really see what you’re doing, but it’s doable. When you’ve finished pinning, take it off –– it should look a little weird, as the fabric is no longer stretched. No big deal; sew it in place, making sure you stretch the fabric out as you sew it. I like to catch the needle along the edge of the elastic just so it doesn’t roll/do weird things inside the casing. 

And then voila. You have finished socks.

Go kill Witches.

- Jenn

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sparklepipsi

♥ SAILOR FUKU COSPLAY TUTORIAL ♥ I finally did it guys, I finished my Sailor Fuku tutorial *w*!! I’ve been meaning to do this for a long time, since my Sailor Moon costumes get the most construction questions by far ~ I hope this will help out some aspiring senshi cosplayers out there!! ♥ This is my first tutorial, but if it goes over well I might put together more so let me know if there’s anything else you’d like to see from me ~ :D You can view the complete tutorial pdf on DeviantArt, or you can download it directly from my website. Enjoy! ♥

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gamerevx

Because you like LOOKING AWESOME! XD

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batcosplay

Hooray! Here is my very first tutorial video! This video shows how I did my scallops on my Ciel (circus) costume. I remember having a hard time finding any information on how to do scallops so I hope this helps those of you who may have to do this for a costume you’re planning! 

I have two more tutorial videos lined up, one for pointed teeth and one for Tongue Tatoos.

Is there anything else I have done that you guys would like to see a tutorial video for?

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