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Art references and Resources

@referenceforartists / referenceforartists.tumblr.com

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What ARE Vanishing Points?

So I feel like a lot of confusion with drawing in perspective is because people are not taught the absolute basics properly? So let’s do that.

Let’s say we have a cube.

Now, a cube we know is made out of 6 squares or rectangles, and every edge is at a 90 degree angle.

so every opposite edge of a cube is exactly parallel, right?

but let’s say we draw a cube using only parallel lines:

this looks a little weird, you know? Like if i try think of this as an object in 3d space and i look at it for too long, the faces start to look really warped - with like the back looking bigger than the front as if its been made out of weird wonky trapeziums

so what’s going on here? if all those edges are exactly parallel, why does it look weird?

Now we know that the rails on a track are always going to be parallel, they have to be the same distance apart so the train can stay on the track yeah?

But we can very clearly see that these tracks are converging to a single point in the photo.

So what does this tell us, exactly? That our view of the world is naturally warped, and that lines that are physically parallel when drawn in perspective will converge to a single point.

Now, I could call this image “one point perspective” - but that’s not really true,

if these lines are also parallel, then they must also converge to a single point in perspective, right? so lets add another point

clip studio paint automatically adjusts the horizon line to fit the new points you add to your perspective…. notice how the horizon line actually fits the photo better now?

our new point is a very very long way away, so we don’t notice a lot of difference in the angle between lines, but the point that i’m trying to make here is:

Drawing with perspective guides is not about choosing one, two, three point perspective etc. those are just quick ways to set up a certain viewing angle

What you are doing when you use these guides is making your parallel lines converge to a point.

So, if you want to draw a big ol’ cube that’s aligned to be parallel with these railroad tracks, then you can do that with the same point as the tracks - because it’s parallel. It’s on the same axis!

but what if you want to draw a cube that’s rotated, and isn’t parallel to the tracks?

well that’s not too difficult to do if you know that every point represents one set of parallel lines.

If these lines aren’t parallel to the ones you already have, then clearly you just need new points.

We’re not planning to tilt this cube up into the air, or rotate it onto its side, so we’re going to leave the vertical axis alone, and just move our horizontal points to a different place on the horizon line

But speaking of the vertical axis - the only points that will be on your horizon line are the ones that are flat on the ground. But you can still have points that are not on the horizon line!

This is important to remember because if you’re trying to draw something like a slope or stairs, something that has an incline, it’s not going to be level with your horizon.

Let’s draw some stairs as an example.

This is actually pretty simple - first draw where your slope starts and ends by drawing a big L shape.

this will give you some parallel corners, which you can then connect to make a new point for your slope

And with this you can then find the centre and divide that up into equal parts to make your stairs (http://lesbianlinkle.tumblr.com/post/176704472820)

So lets go back to our original cube, with the knowledge that our parallel lines should all converge to a point and draw it again

well, doesn’t that look better!

but also, now you know how to make a cube lean against its buddy like this

because we just make new points for the new parallel lines

Anyway I hope that clears some things up, and makes perspective easier to understand!

Also if these tutorials have been helpful and you’d like to support me, I do have a patreon & a ko-fi you can donate to :^)

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gif example for the first 3:

another example of applying measuring:

I know poppin’ to be roughly 5 feet tall. I also know that, on average, the height of a room is at least 8 foot tall.

I also know that the pokémon centre has two levels to its base floor room, so I’m thinking it’s a bigger room than average but still a little less than two storeys tall. I decide to make it 12 feet tall, thats one and a half rooms. Considering the average size of pokemon is like, huge, it sounds about right to me.

So I measure that out:

then I add another floor on top, and that gives me the height of the building!

this is the same as measuring out the cubes, I just applied a number this time! the pokémon centre is about four poppin’s tall, or four cubes if you will

there’s all kinds of things you can do by using just a few lines to measure things out. I wanted to make sure hugh was taller so I measured that out too!

so when you’re drawing things like architecture instead of thinking of it as a big complex shape, break it down and think about the size and position of things - especially the edges - relative to each other, and you’ll find it much easier to draw.

It’s very time consuming, but if you’re patient you can draw anything no matter how complex :^)

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whiteraven90

Hello! :D Do you have any advice on drawing creatures at different angles? I struggle a lot with coming up with a pose and trying to draw it at another angle, and in your work your anatomy, shading/lighting, proportions and foreshortening are always just so perfect ;w; In particular Tau’s reference sheet, those greyscale headshots of him are so incredible that they look like 3D models :’) Thank you for your time!

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*starts sweating*

  • make a 3D model

When i know that i’m looking at a figure or an environment that i will draw a lot more and very regularly in the future, i make a 3D model. 

But most of the time i don’t use the model. It’s best to use it in specific situations, like when you are trying to get the hang of the design (the end goal of that is being able to draw it from memory alone with ease). Or when you make a reference sheet, because the accuracy should be top notch there. Just sculpting a model of it alone helps, because the knowledge you gain from sculpting the design will carry over to 2D, whether you like it or not, you really have no say in it, fortunately. :p

  • draw, fail, delete, draw, fail, delete, draw, fail, delete, until success 

In contrast with that, i don’t have a model for most of my designs, including these two. Most of the time what i like to do i’d call “brute-forcing” accuracy. That is… drawing it and deleting it over and over and over again, without help, until it looks right. I like to think of it as making my brain’s 3D software stronger.

  • observe & learn & memorize & draw relevant real life things 

Drawing from life/photo is to train your brain software too. You basically suggest to it, for example “this shading is correct in these lighting conditions on this material, code it into System32”. By this, while drawing from memory/imagination, you relegated the task of accurate shading to your subconscious and you can spend your active concentration on better things. 

(this example image is more like a joke, but if i ever draw Pegasus in a catbread pose again, i will have a better idea of what to do and what not to do - and i will certainly not be drawing him like this next time i use this pose)

  • construct and transform the figure using basic shapes

You can also use that tecnique everyone keeps recommending for everything that is basically “break the figure down into simple shapes like cylinders, orbs, cones, squares, etc and transform those shapes”. E.g.: don’t think of it as a bird’s wing, think of it as a sheet of paper. If the base shape looks ok after you draw it from a different angle, it will also look ok after you put the details back on it. Probably. Art is an art, not a science. The reason everybody keeps recommending this technique is because it’s really effective, when done right.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_(graphical) - and train your brain to make use of this thing too. 

(like this but with more effort)

  • get intimately familiar with your design

Practice/repetition/familiarity can’t (or maybe shouldn’t) be skipped, needless to say. If you already drew pigeon wings 4999 different ways, the 5000th will not be as hard to draw as if you have only drawn pigeon wings 50 times before. 

Also pays off to get familiar with your creature’s range of motions, behaviors, relative sizes of bodyparts, etc. Every new pose and angle for every different design you draw is more or less like uncharted land.

  • if it looks wrong, it isn’t necessarily wrong

Maybe this is a very niche scenario, i don’t know, but sometimes when one design looks terrible/wrong from another angle it’s because that is how it looks from another angle. It tends to happen when i couldn’t predict that the design will not look good from any other angle, or when my brain gets stuck on a belief (e.g. when i was like 8, i thought that bones can’t have a bent shape because they are rigid so if they bent they would break. I drew very… very straight limbs for a while). This is another reason for me to make a 3D model. It’s good for troubleshooting. 

  • embrace the struggle

I struggle a lot with coming up with a pose and trying to draw it at another angle” is how i feel too. More often than not. If you want to be varied and draw many kinds of Things, new things all the time, struggle will be riding shotgun in your car forever. Name your struggle. I’ll name mine Bob. Bob might be a douche canoe, but he is my douche canoe. Life is never dull when Bob’s around. I hope these tips will make your Bob more fun too.

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bonkalore

Trying to draw buildings

yo here’s a useful tip from your fellow art ho cynellis… use google sketchup to create a model of the room/building/town you’re trying to draw… then take a screenshot & use it as a reference! It’s simple & fun!

Sketchup is incredibly helpful. I can’t recommend it enough.

There’s a 3D model warehouse where you can download all kinds of stuff so you don’t have to build everything from scratch.

reblog to save a life

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bludragongal

This is an incomplete tutorial, and it drives me crazy every time I see it come around.

We live in a pretty great digital age and we have access to a ton of amazing tools that artists in past generations couldn’t even dream of, but a lot of people look at a cool trick and only learn half of the process of using it.

Here’s the missing part of this tutorial:

How do you populate your backgrounds?

Well, here’s the answer:

If the focus is the environment, you must show a person in relation to that environment.

The examples above are great because they show how to use the software itself, but each one just kind of “plops” the character in front of their finished product with no regard of the person’s relation to their environment.

How do you fix this?

Well, here’s the simplest solution:

This is a popular trick used by professional storyboard and comic artists alike when they’re quickly planning compositions. It’s simple and it requires you to do some planning before you sit down to crank out that polished, final version of your work, but it will be the difference between a background and an environment.

From Blacksad (artist: Juanjo Guarnido)

From Hellboy (Mike Mignola)

Even if your draftsmanship isn’t that great (like mine), people can be more immersed in the story you tell if you just make it feel like there is a world that exists completely separate from the one in which they currently reside – not just making a backdrop the characters stand in front of.

Your creations live in a unique world, and it is as much a character as any other member of the cast. Make it as believable as they are.

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shatterstag

Great comments and tutorials!

I’m a 3d artist and have been exploring the possibilities of using 3d as reference for 2d poses. I want to add a couple of tips and things!

Sketchup is very useful for environment references, and I assume it’s reasonably easy to learn. If you’re interested in going above and beyond, I highly recommend learning a proper 3d modeling program to help with art, especially because you can very easily populate a scene or location with characters!

Using 3ds Max I can pretty quickly construct an environment for reference. But going beyond that, I can also pose a pretty simple ‘CAT’ armature (known in 3d as a rig) straight into the scene, which can be totally customized, from various limbs, tails, wings, whatever, to proportions, and also can be modeled onto and expanded upon (for an example, you could 3d sculpt a head reference for your character and then attach it to the CAT rig, so you have a reference for complex face angles!)

The armature can also be posed incredibly easily. I know programs exist for stuff like this - Manga Studio, Design Doll - but posing characters in these programs is always an exercise in frustration and very fiddly imo. A simple 3d rig is impossibly easy to pose.

By creating an environment and dropping my character rig into it, I have an excellent point of reference when it comes to drawing the scene!

Not only that, but I can also view the scene from whatever angle I could ever want or need, including the character and their pose/position relative to the environment.

We can even quickly and easily expand this scene to include more characters!

Proper 3d modeling software is immensely powerful, and if you wanted to, you could model a complex environment that occurs regularly in your comic or illustration work (say, a castle interior, or an outdoor forest environment) and populate the scene with as many perspective-grounded characters as you need!

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askoursquad

reblogging to save a life

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Look at this amazing addition! This is fantastic!

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Anonymous asked:

I dont understand perspective at all can you help me? .-.

Omg, sorry for taking so long to respond. I saw this ask and was like, “*sweat nervously* whooboy perspective what do”

This is something I struggle so much on too, and online tutorials can’t help me.

So I’m going to point you to a book.

Perspective Made Easy by Ernest Norling

The writing style is very conversational and easy to read, and it takes you through the various parts of perspective step by step to give you a more intuitive understanding of it. And it has the added benefit of not cramming so much onto one page that your eyes glaze over.

Like, look at a few sample pages

I’m a huge fan of this book.

If you want something more advanced, I’d recommend Successful Drawing by Andrew Loomis

It’s not as easy of a read, and it does examples more than tutorials, but this book is exhaustive when it comes to perspective.

It teaches everything from one point and to point perspective to scaling interiors, placing figures, drawing inclines, curved surfaces, reflections and shadows - all in perspective.

Here are a few images from the book

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soren49

Receding objects in perspective.

Have you ever been trying to draw tiles on a wall or on the floor in perspective, but notice that after you’ve drawn them, they don’t look like they’re all the same shape or size?  Well here’s a tutorial on how to fix that. Your picture probably looks like this, right?

Well, i’m here to tell you how to fix that…Let’s start out with your basics.

The gray line is the horizon line, and the black dot is your horizon line. These are essential for the first steps of perspective. Without these, your perspective may turn out wonky and just not flattering to the eyes. Right now we’ll work in One point perspective.

Now let’s pretend we’ll be drawing a hallway. Draw a vertical line where the edge of the wall is.

Now, from the tips of the bottom and top of your wall, you’re going to need to draw a line extending all the way to the vanishing point. If you’re working in photoshop you could either use the line tool, or shift+click. If traditional, you’ll need to use a ruler.

Now that we have the wall that’s in perspective, it’s time to draw the rest of the lines. here I’ve drawn the wall facing us that’s closest, the ceiling, the floor line, and the end of the hallway. ASSUMING that you are working in one point perspective, all vertical lines are straight and parallel to each other, and all horizontal lines are straight and parallel to each other. 

Now here I have erased the lines that extended beyond the back wall, and found the center point of the edge of the left wall. From there, you draw an extended line just as before towards your vanishing point.

now make a vertical line where your first “tile” is. 

now this may be a little hard to explain. Now you’re going to draw a line coming from the corner of the wall, through the corner where your line meets the tile you just drew, and all the way to the ground line. 

You see where these two lines meet? you’re going to draw a vertical line to the ceiling from here.

Like so! 

Now rinse and repeat! you should have perfectly even spaced tiles now! And if you have tiles on the ceiling

Just draw horizontal lines connecting to the vertical lines!

Now just erase anyhing you don’t need and…viola! Perfect tiles in perspective!! I hope this helps!! :D

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Just curious on how you approach composition and perspective. I feel as if sometimes I think too hard, not really about what to draw but how to draw it and make it look interesting. The comic panels you have been doing are amazing. Any tips/references on improving my knowledge of composition and perspective? What do you think about as you lay your pencil on the drawing paper? what goes through your mind?

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*STANDARD DISCLAIMER* I’m not handing down life lessons or trying to assert that there’s a ‘correct way’ to draw. I’m just trying to make perspective more approachable for thems that want to tackle it.

Okay. Let’s do this.

1. Understand what perspective is and what it’s for. Stay away from rulers while you get comfortable.

Everyone struggles with perspective because 1. it’s not well or widely taught and 2. artists tend to see linear perspective as a set of rules rather than a set of tools.

Linear perspective is a TOOL we use to create and depict SPACE. That’s it. That’s all it is. Your goal is not to draw in ‘accurate linear perspective.’ Stay away from the ruler and precision for as long as you can. Your goal is to create the illusion of three-dimensional space on a two-dimensional surface. Perspective is just a tool to help you construct and correct that space.

2. Know in your bones that you can ONLY learn to draw in perspective through physical practice. There is no other way.

Grab some paper and draw with me. If you match me drawing for drawing you will be more fluent in linear perspective and spatial drawing by the end of this post. Unfortunately if you don’t, you won’t be.

3. Sketch around in rough perspective. NO RULERS.

So let’s make some simple space. let’s start with a two dimensional surface…

K. We have a flat, 2D surface. Let’s create some depth by putting a vanishing point in the middle, and having parallel lines converge towards it. Make a gridded plane inside that space.

Good. Let’s make that space meaningful by adding a dude and a road or something. (Again, parallel ‘depth lines’ will converge into the vanishing point along the horizon)

And now we have the rough illusion of some space. I didn’t use any rulers, and it’s not perfectly accurate, but we got our depth from that vanishing point right in the middle of the page. And since we have a little dude in there, we’ve got human scale, which allows us to gauge the size of the space we’ve created. Gives it meaning.

You need people or cars or some recognizable, human-scale THING in there as a frame of reference or your space won’t mean much to your viewer. Watch. We can make that same basic space a whole lot bigger like this:

Same vanishing point in the same place, completely different scale, and a totally different feeling of space. Cool, right?

3. Sketch around in rough perspective MORE. STAY LOOSE.

See what sort of spaces and feelings you can create with vanishing points and gridded planes on a post-it or something. Super small, super rough. Feel it out. Pick a vanishing point or lay out a grid in perspective, and MAKE SOME SPACE. Do it. Draw, I don’t know, a lady and her dog in a desert. I’ll do it, too.

Good job. LOOK AT YOU creating the illusion of space! This is how you’ll thumbnail and plan anything you want to draw in space. All of my drawings start this way. I think about how I want the viewer to feel and then play around with space and composition until I find something that works.

Once you have a sketch you like, and space that you feel, THEN you can take out the ruler and make it more accurate and convincing.

4. Draw environments from life.

I cannot stress this enough. Draw the world around you, try to draw the shapes and angles as you see them, and you will ‘get’ how and why perspective is used. Use something permanent so that you’ll move fast and commit. I usually use black prismacolor pencil.

You’ll learn or reinforce something with every drawing. I learned a lot about multiple vanishing points from this drawing:

Learned from the receding, winding space I tired to draw here:

Layered, interior spaces:

You get the idea.

Life drawing will also help you develop your own shorthand and language for depicting textures, materials, details, natural and architectural features, etc. Do it. Do it all the time. Go to pretty or interesting places just to draw them.

Take a second and just draw a quick sketch of whatever room you’re in.

5. Perspective in formal Illustration: apply what you’ve learned.

1. I always start with research. For this particular location I looked at Angkor Wat.

2. Once I had enough reference, I did a bunch of little thumbnail sketches with a very loose sense of space and picked the one I liked best.

3. Scanned the thumbnail and drew a little more clearly over it. Worked out the rough space before using formal perspective.

4. Reinforced the space with formal perspective. I dropped in pre-made vanishing points over my drawing. If I were drawing in real media here’s where I’d get out the ruler to sketch in some accurate space.

5. Drew the damn thing. Because I do my research, draw from life, and am comfortable drawing in perspective, I can wing it. I just sort of ‘build’ the ruins freehand in the space I’ve established, keeping it more or less accurate, experimenting and playing with details along the way. I erase a lot, too, both in PS and when drawing in pencil. Keeps it fun for me.

And that’s what I know about composition and perspective. If you want more formal instruction on perspective and it’s uses, you can use John Buscema’s How to Draw Comics the Marvel Way. Or If you want to get really intense about it, Andrew Loomis can help you.

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PERSPECTIVE & WARPED PERSPECTIVE TUTORIALS with Samples

Please consider REBLOG and not just like, cause you’re not only supporting me but help others with getting use to perspective drawing!

I’ve archived series of perspective & warped perspective tutorials that I made in the past with minor revisions and added samples. I believe some people have struggle with perspective probably because of the impression of complexity and the fancy terms that comes with it. I’ve met many artists that just didn’t want to deal with the all fancy terms like “3 point/4 point” perspective and walked away from it and I understand that feeling. Personally these terms are quite useless and that the important part of perspective drawing is really just capturing the dimension and getting use to it. (When I do perspective drawing I put very little consciousness in points & lines but towards how my brain is seeing the depth and dimension.)

When I first learned perspective drawing in elementary school art class, my teacher taught me the conventional method with ruler, lines and dots. While it provide accuracy, it tends to require alot of lines and wide space where your starting points existing way off the page and perhaps this might be the reason why some people find it tedious and hard to deal with. So I’m going to ditch using ruler and the fancy term and demonstrate them in much simpler approach.

I purposely build these tutorials in raw pencil rather than the nice looking digital tutorials because I want to show you that it’s not about the precision and accuracy that makes convincing perspective but a daily scribble and eye-balling. Treat them like any other drawing practice, doing tons of freehand and eye-balling to grasp the dimension in your head. I wont stop you from making a use of a ruler, however perspective drawing is a vital practice to improve your line work as well. (Personally when I use a ruler, my perspective looses the sense of dynamics and objects would look too uniform. Besides clean straight lines has no personality and can look dull at times.)

1 BOX - Method

  • The idea is that when drawing 2 squares with different size (having same or similar ratio) you have already managed to create an illusion of dimension. By connecting each corners with four lines you are dealing with perspective. The key to this practice is that you’re trying to place your consciousness on dimension and not towards drawing a nice looking box. Train your eye-balling by making use of the four extending lines from each corners to get the perspective line without the need of referencing the focal (center) point.

2 & 3 PLANE - Method (The lower portion of third image)

  • Basically it’s the reverse of conventional point based perspective. You’re not drawing from the point but towards the imaginary point. When you draw a square shape in an angle, you manage to create first step of illusion that suggest dimension, so this tutorial is trying to take advantage of that situation. (Tho it’s heavily dependent towards your EYE-BALLING SKILLS!)

4 FISH - EYE TUTORIAL

  • This is pseudo “Fish-Eye” tutorial that is trying to simulate fish-eye lens on a camera. The idea is that the object close to the center has fewer distortion and will cause more distortion as it gets further towards the edge of the lens (sphere). I believe that warped perspective requires a bit of confidence in handling normal perspective drawing. More so the sense in eye balling is needed, so get use the normal perspective drawing first and then start mixing warped perspective into your practice.

My 2 cent is that rather than using a big space on an empty page/canvas, draw a frame and then start drawing. (You can see me do that on few of my samples.) This tip apply to general drawing as well since “big empty canvas” can be a bit intimidating. By setting a frame or a border, it’s actually you’re first attempt on creating an illusion in a 2D space.

My final note is that even though you’re doing a freehand, a sloppy lines will break the illusion, so pay attention to where the line starts, how it flow and where it ends.

Support me on Patreon so I can create more artworks and tutorials! MY PATREON PAGE –> www.patreon.com/toshinho

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moatdd

Deluxe Draughtsmanship Exercise CheetSheet(TM donut steel all rights reserved lol no not really)

Draughtsmanship is the skill of making lines go where you want them to go. For that, body, eyes and mind must work together.

Some movements feel awkward and your pen won’t go in the direction you want it to. That’s a body problem. Exercises like the radial and (clockwise/counterclockwise) circular training will help you build muscle memory.

But round arcs and straight lines are of no use if they don’t land on target. For that, practice three-point targeted circle exercises, circle push and ellipse exercises.

Jumping the gap between 2D and 3D is going to be the hardest part. You have to train your eyes. The problem is that the page is flat and your eyes will see that. Eliminate all shadows with a well lit surface. Defocus your eyes, close one eye (or cover it) to defeat your depth perception so you can see INTO and draw INTO the page rather than ON the page. You have to push your lines AWAY from you or TOWARDS you.

Lastly, some of these exercises are meant to be DISRUPTIVE. They break routine and pattern and force you to keep your mind engaged instead of falling into stupid autopilot mode. Good art requires a certain amount of mental fortitude. These exercises are meant to provide you with a level of cognitive difficulty to strain your mind.

Look at your own abilities (or lack of them), pick one to strengthen, and then choose the exercise that targets that weakness. Practice until it becomes second nature and then move on to the next weakness.

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