A Little Sweet, a Little Sour

Tea-gown of pink silk satin by Russell and Allen, cut in the kimono style with lace trim and tassel at the back c.1908 - 1914. Photograph by John Chase. Chertsey Museum.

A Baby Learning How To Walk In A Wicker Frame As Mom Does Laundry. 1910′s

Blue Wool Dress, ca. 1910, Norwegian.

Slottsfjellsmuseet.

Kimono

Iida & Co./Takashimaya

c.1910

The MET

Here are some vintage photographs of Charlie Chaplin with a puppet doll of the Tramp in Hollywood, Ca., in 1917. Chaplin originated the Tramp character in the 1914 silent film, Kid Auto Races at Venice.

Man, what I wouldn't pay for those shoes! The suit fits him very nicely too, of course.

• Dress.

Designer/Maker: Jørgine Fjeld

Date: 1916

1912-1913 Evening gown

orange satin with overlays of shot pink and green charmeuse with black beaded braid trimmings and rhinestone buckle to waist

(Kerry Taylor Auctions)

Meiji period fashion was some of the best in the world, speaking purely from an aesthetic standpoint you can really see the collision of European and Japanese standards of beauty and how their broad agreement even in particulars (the similarity between Japanese and Gibson girl bouffants, the obi vs the corset, the obi knot vs the bustle, the mutual covetousness for exotic textiles, the feverish swapping of both art styles and subjects) combined and produced some of the most interesting cultural exchange we have this level of documentation for. Europeans were wearing kimono or adapting them into tea gowns, japanese were pairing lacy Edwardian blouses with skirt hakama and little button up boots. haori jackets with bowler hats and European style lapels. if steampunk was any good as an aesthetic it would steal wholesale from the copious records we have in both graphic arts and photography of how people were dressing in this milieu.

«The botany professor,» from Kkokei Shimbun, October 20, 1908. she's wearing a kimono blouse or haori, edwardian skirt or hakama, gibson girl bouffant, a lacy high-collar blouse with cravat and brooch, and a pocket watch with chain

1910-1930 (Taishō era, right after Meiji, which I should have included in my OP) men's haori with western lapels

I have a love for both kimonos and bustle dresses, so I love seeing how the two fashions influenced each other over this period.  And thanks to Pinterest, I have pictures!

Victorian tea gown that clearly started as a kimono.  It still has the long furisode sleeves, but now they’re gathered at the shoulder and turned around so that the long open side is facing the front instead of the back.  Similarly the back is taken in with curved seams to fit the torso and pleated below that for the skirt.

Woodblock of a woman in a a bustle dress made with colorful patterned fabrics and examples of how a woman could style her hair with it.

More prints to showcase hairstyles, two women wearing western wear and two women wearing kimonos.

This next one’s modern, but it involves hoopskirts so I’ll add it in because it makes me so happy.  There’s been different styles of wedding fashion that take kimonos and give them a more modern look.  Often this involves taking a kimono and then cutting and resewing it into a new dress.  Very pretty, but it can’t ever be worn like a traditional kimono again.  But now there’s another trend where the bride wears a hoopskirt with a white skirt, then you take the kimono and drape it on.  The back of the kimono covers the front of the dress, the long sleeves fall across the sides or the back, and you still wear an obi with it.  The result is pretty and the kimono itself doesn’t have to be altered at all.

And because you mentioned steampunk, I have to add in these two:

Personally I’m a big fan of Taisho Meisen kimono, which are what happen when the Japanese textile industry abruptly gets access to aniline dyes, new spinning and weaving technology, and the concept of Art Deco:

1915 Fashion model. From Mikki’s 1900-1919 History Resource, FB.

1918 Women working a stock market board and a ticker tape machine at the Waldorf Hotel. From My Vintage Dreams, FB.

Corset Cover | Abiti Antichi | 1912

A cordyceps infestation of the bust.

Evening Dress

1910s

Musée Galleria de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Day dress by Poiret ca. 1910

From Tessier-Sarou