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Amelie la Parapluie

@montmartre-parapluie / montmartre-parapluie.tumblr.com

The blog of a happy-go-lucky fashion history loving literature nerd. I love the 18th century, Turn: Washingtons Spies, Star Wars, superheroes, costuming and sewing... it's all good.
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MP Goes All Crafty- The "Advent" Robe Francaise Edition

Happy 2022 to all! And deepest apologies for being absent here on the interwebs for so long. I have been around - just super busy, with one thing or another, and that's kept me away from my computer for a while. To cap it all off, I had my first ever Christmas holiday break away from home with the family, which was both deeply fun and super weird to try for the first time!

Anyway - I have finally all but finished the burgundy chintz Robe Francaise (bar a little more trim on the overgown) - and I couldn't resist trying it all on in early December just to see how it looked. The colours were a teeny bit 'Christmassy' anyway, with the red, blue and white, and I do love the silhouette...

I hadn't made all the little accessories this gown needs at this point - ie, no lacy sleeve ruffles - and I still need a lace tucker for my stomacher to be properly, 18th century attired, but I was incredibly please with how it all came together with my powdered and styled wig and pinner cap - and this was just a quick try on! If I was wearing it to an event, I'd work harder to blend my own hair into the front to soften that hard 'wig line' .

It was also surprisingly easy to move in - even negotiating stairs wasn't too bad, which considering the trailing train could have been a recipe for disaster! And I LOVED the way the skirts fan out when you sit down. I felt very regal!

I, er, couldn't resist the opportunity to take a couple of silly ones. These are probably my '18th Naval Officers? Local women in your area want YOU!' dating profile pictures... XD

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Work In progress: The "Cheery In Chintz" Robe a la Francaise Project...

Hello again, friends!

With lockdown rules yo-yoing around in my area, not entirely sure if I'll get to wear this any time soon outside an impromptu photoshoot in my back garden - but what the hey, I'll share my plans any way!

There's a delightful exhibit on the history of 18th century Dutch Chintz going on display at the London Textile and Costume Museum later this year, organised by no less than the Fries Museum from Leeuwarden!

A bunch of my fellow 18th century costumers invited me along to attend in 18th century dress - ideally, of course, in chintz, to pay homage to the historic prints on show.

But after looking through my wardrobe...alas, I HAVE no floral cotton gowns to wear!

So yes, that's right, there's another project in the works...

This above delightful silk robe francaise from the Mint Museum has LONG been on my 'to make' list, because that rich red wine colour is just divine (and the talented @tockamybeloved has been really inspiring me with HER fantastic robe francaises from the American Duchess pattern. But I never thought I'd find a fabric that would come close, until i stumbled across this delightful Dutch Heritage reproduction cotton print:

Best yet, it IS an 18th century reproduction print, made by a Dutch company - so I'm honouring the historical Dutch prints by wearing a modern one. There's a really nice symmetry to that.

Not quite the same, and a tad busier (and cotton, not silk), but absolutely PERFECT for paying homage to the exhibition. Plus, cotton will be nice and cool if it's still warm when we plan to attend. If it's outrageously warm I may wear the chemise gown, but this is a nice compromise for if it's a little cooler.

We'll see how it goes - I'll post pictures as I travel along in the making process!

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Summer Sewing: the Chemise Gown Project

Or basically, what else can M-P possibly distract herself with?

Before the hot weather began here (we had an unusually cold May! )I’d been working on finishing a natural form plaid wool bustle gown that I’d had some issues with. It’s going great, but then... the HEAT arrived. Even thinking about working with thick fabric was bringing me out in a heat rash. But tucked away in my fabric stash were two sets of IKEA’s Matilda cotton voile curtains, and I’d been saving them for making a chemise gown at some point... so out they came!

I opted for using the Laughing Moon Chemise Gown pattern, although I changed the long sleeves to elbow length and added a ruffle. (I have pretty wide shoulders, so the big puff sleeves would have made me look like an American football player) I wanted quite a sleek look on the rest of the gown to contrast with the fluffy double ruffle at the neckline.

The all but finished chemise on the dummy, looking really quite lovely in the evening light!

( I should really have moved that hanger, though. Oops.)

And finally, I actually laced myself into the mere (light by 18th century standards, I suppose!) 3 layers of clothing for a quick photoshoot!

All in all, I'm very pleased with this! As reenactment events start opening up again, this is a great 'lighter' option for summer. I found it pretty comfortable to trot around in (although I may try a bigger rump pad next time! The 1780s are AAAALLLL about big butts)

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The 'What's M-P Been Up To’ Costuming Post...

Uh... otherwise known as the big, huge, “sorry the new fic chapter won’t be posted until next week” post. I have no excuses other than the sewing bug bit me and I’ve been ignoring my writing responsibilities in favour of making ‘ALL the pretty things’.

I finished the blue and silver silk jacket and the stomacher, and used my scraps to make a frou-frou neck ruffle and ribbon to make it just a little more formal...

This was really just a useful way of using up snippets, but it was quick and easy fun to make! It also means I can dress the jacket up or down, depending on whether it’s a Versailles ball or a relaxed promenade. I have another stomacher in the works using cream silk with blue trim, to mix up the look a little.

I also took the opportunity to also a) restyle my trusty 18th century wig...

and b) dress it up by making a lace pinner cap with detachable lappets following the pattern in the American Duchess Hair and Beauty book. It made up rather nicely, if I say so myself - I had some odds and ends of vintage lace I’d been saving to get a rich, authentic look...

So, er...sincere apologies to the people who are wondering when the heck I’ll update on the fic front. I’ll get on that and take a break from the madcap crafting shenanigans!

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