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#other peoples awesome sewing – @montmartre-parapluie on Tumblr
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Amelie la Parapluie

@montmartre-parapluie / montmartre-parapluie.tumblr.com

The blog of a happy-go-lucky fashion history loving literature nerd. I love the 18th century, Turn: Washingtons Spies, Star Wars, superheroes, costuming and sewing... it's all good.
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Pattern pieces drawn up from the muslin I draped then marked for the rough pattern, then stitched, took apart and laid out on pattern making fabric. 

I *hope* this works. 

There will be some changes on the back - I may make it lower, and the front curve depending on how I go about er, supporting myself. The plan is to put two rows of bones on either side of the front, and two on the diagonal of the front side pieces. Those front pieces will be lined. 

The sleeves are attached with ribbons to the bodice = grommets ahead. 

Now to cut it from muslin (again), stitch it up, do any fine tuning, then lay it on the silk. 

In the movie, the ladies were sans a traditional bra, and look like they are wearing cups? But not always? Ya. That’s not going to work for me. SO… instead of wearing a corset or stays underneath this bodice I’m going to splurge on a very pretty lacy bra to wear under the chemise. 

The chemise appears to be very thin swiss dot (for one of the dresses anyway). Staying away from cartridge pleating and simply gathering the skirt, because it is two layers - the swiss dot, and a simple cotton beneath that. 

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My 1880 seaside bustle dress is done!! ☆*: .。. o(≧▽≦)o .。.:*☆

I've started this project during the pandemic and it's finally done plus I already got to take it out for a spin! The pattern is from the book "Making Victorian Costumes for Women" by Heather Audin - projet 4 - soft bustle. I'm wearing a chemise and drawers from Truly Victorian TV106 and my corset is from @ateliersylphe ref. M. The bustle is the lobster tail by @izabelapriorattire I want to give a special thanks to @museunacionalsoaresdosreis for letting me visit their museum using my costume and taking me to closed rooms for an amazing mantle picture.

I also took pictures on the gardens of the Crystal Palace, which is always a lovely walk and breathtaking views 😊

oh WOW. This is just STUNNING, @missgreyunicorn! You should be very very proud of your gorgeous finished gown - it looks just the thing for a lady's promenade in formal gardens!

What gorgeous setting, too - the statue, the museum, the beautiful 19th century architecture - you look like a lady on the "Grand Tour" come to life! And the accessories you've chosen are lovely - PERFECTLY in keeping. I love how you've trimmed your hat and lovely little drawstring bag to match!

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With the Teal Dress 98% done and my (perpetual procrastination to pen for passionate persons procreated on the Iberian Peninsula) eagerness to sew not yet quenched, I present the inspiration for the Pink Gown. (which I promise to give a proper name). 

Inspired by Spring!  

The pink silk is named… Spanish Pink.  I looked at no fewer than 17 swatches before settling on this one. So many were ballet pale! Because this gown is huge there was a real chance of making me look like a walking piece of cotton candy. 

The top left are the fabrics I am using. The bottom right are the green swatches I had to pick from until I discovered in my fabric stash the green in the top pic. 

The top right pic is really close to what I will be trying to execute. And I LOVE all the roses on the front of the middle portrait. That might take more work than I’m willing to commit right now. 

I sewed the petticoat foundation in a lovely ecru named ‘macadamia’. Once the gown is stitched I will decide on the trims. 

If the muse continues to inspire - and give me a good reason! - I might ribbon embroider the design on the stomacher. (what. am. I. doing.?

Aaaaaaggghhh @tockamybeloved !!! This is a gorgeous, tempting teaser trailer for a delectable gown to come - I absolutely LOVE green and pink and it’s such a gorgeous 18th century colour combo put together - you’re going to look like a walking rosebud coming into flower!

And the inspiration pictures! Oh my word, you picked some gorgeous ones! although the thought of the flower trimming on that third reference picture put me into a nervous sweat

And you’re going to add some gorgeous ribbonwork embroidery too? HERE FOR IT! Here for all of it!

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Also working on this because - writing? What is that?  I need stays to go with my Spring dress, si?  Yes. That’s correct. Making stays is now officially easier than writing.  This took about 4 hours and I only have to finish the binding (by hand) and make the holes for the ties. 

The solid pink silk. Sigh. Dislike. It was supposed to have a hint of yellow to it. I put this up to my skin and in full daylight it is lighter than this picture and I would have looked (gasp!) nude!  No. 

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Some lovely things for future costumes have arrived

1st my lovely Regency repo earrings from Lady Detalle. Gold Plated bees with a beautiful pineapple cut lavender blue Alexandrite. They are so beautiful and when I saw them I had to have them. They are a pair of earring that when you wear them you just glow.

and more swatches came. I’m still waiting on  the silk fabric I have ordered but the swatches are tying me over. Plus it means I get to order more fabric.

some Bee fabric swatches for a Sleeveless Regency Spencer. the fabric is pretty pricey(and this was the cheaper option I could find) so I’m only going to make a small wardrobe item. So a cute little sleeveless Spencer like below would work perfectly. and any left over will be turned into a reticule and used for the bonnet.

image

I love the gold bees to match my gold earrings.

I picked out the lighter colors because I was inspired by a vest/waistcoat worn  by Benedict in Bridgerton on the show. It might be one of my favorite piece of costume after the pink Queen dress.

I wish I could find a really good picture of the whole waistcoat because it is so adorable. I know that they did it in a least two different colors but I like the lighter colors more.

I need to pick a color 

1. Blue

2. Gold

3. white

I think I’m leaning more to blue 1st and the white is a close second. I think I will be able to decide once I pick out fabric for a dress I’m wearing with the Spencer. 

I think I’m going to go with this fabric for a dress. I will also make a actual white Regency dress 

Now which bee fabric to choose with it

Side Note part of my brain is like these fabrics will clash and another part is “WHO CARES! If you like them do it”

Oh my goodness @sweetteakisses! You’re at it again with MORE wonderful costume plans! 

I LOVE the sleeveless spencer look - and your planned fabrics are just swoonworthy! The embroidered bees are perfection.

(And here Mama Bridgerton clearly agrees!)

The great thing is, it’s so hard to choose because they’d ALL go great with that delicious embroidered floral fabric in a gown. You’ve got the tones of the gold and the blue matching perfectly!  I really don’t think they’ll clash at all - and if you love it, go for it. 

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The robe a la française is one of my FAVORITE gown shapes, and I’ve wanted to do one for Belle for a long time. I was stuck on the color scheme and how to make it work until the lovely lady who will be wearing her found a beautiful blue and rose patterned dress. This is the result, and I love it so much. I can’t wait to see how it looks in real life. I’m struggling a little bit with the Beast’s design. The other costumes so far have been entirely works of fantasy, not historical- and as much as I LOVE 18th century women’s clothes is as much as I HATE 18th century menswear, so we might be cheating a little bit and ignoring historical accuracy. We’ll just have to see lol

Oh, this is lovely! @wayfaringseamstress!  I absolutely love how the dress design combines colour elements from all her outfits too - the gold trim against the blue and red, with the red sleeve ruffle trim? That is going to look spectacular!! (and honestly, something I really wish we’d got in the live-action movie. #LetBelleWearNice18thCenturyGowns!)

I’m sure whatever you design for the Beast will look absolutely stunning! That’s the nice thing about Disney-inspired outfits, so making it more fantasy-based is perfectly fine - it’s a wonderful playground for us historical costumers to dive into

Can’t wait to see how this progresses!

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It's so cold today! Apropos of nothing, here are some pictures from the last time it really snowed (snew?), when I accessorized my reproduction Emma spencer to be winter-appropriate.

@theladygruoch... I couldn’t scroll past this. *Looks back and forth between the movie gif and your wonderful jacket*

I am a huge card-carrying fan of piped Regency Spencer jackets, so seeing your wonderful screen-perfect recreation made my costumer heart-eyes light up like nobody’s business! 😍😍😍

it’s just a feast of really great design and texture. And dare I say it, I like yours better for its wintry setting. The soft pink really stands out against the wintry woodland with the snow on the ground, and the fur hat is a lovely touch.

(Plus I was immensely jealous once I spied the delightful American Duchess stockings and Regency boots)

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1730s robe volante based on this dress in the 1731 Declaration of Love by Jean-François de Troy, one of my favorite paintings and dresses. I love the aesthetics of the 1730s, although they get so little attention for being so fab. The volante is the ancestor of the iconic mid-century robe a la francaise, roughly differentiated from its later form with wide sleeves, broad pleats in front and back, and a closed front, but there's a lot of variation. My version is fitted through the sides, but it still obscures my figure enough to make me feel like a beautiful brocade mountain! This style makes you feel so dominant and powerful, taking up space and lugging piles of fabric everywhere. Manspreaders only wish they could get on this level.

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Chemise a la Golden Pimpernel

Costume inspired by Marguerite Blankley in the Scarlet Pimpernel(book)

“Always dressed in the very the latest vagary of fashion, Marguerite alone among the ladies  that night had  discarded the crossover fichu and broad-lapelled over-dress…She wore the short waisted Classical-shaped gown, which so soon was to become the approved mode in every country in Europe. It’s suited her graceful, regal figure to perfection, composed as it was of shimmering stuff which seemed a mass of rich gold embroidery.”

Finally done with this costume. I wanted to take pictures of it outside today but it is cold and raining which is a no for this lightweight silk gown. 

3 months of Embroidery: Learning, building a embroidery frame, and then working on the dress

2 months to whip up new set of undergarments: Chemise, Stays, Petticoat and two false rumps(1st was to large so had to make a smaller one)

1 month sewing the dress: fitting, mock up, alterations and final gown

1 hour making jewelry set

Time well spent because I’m simply in love with this gown.

Oh my.... *jaw drops*

@sweetteakisses​ I saw this cross my dashboard and my eyes went bigger than  saucers just drinking this in. This is fantastic. Absolutely the level of historical costuming I aspire to! I salute you, ma’am. You look absolutely stunning in 18th century dress!

And not only have you made some really gorgeous stays and 18th century underwear (I am so jealous of your lovely grommets! I’ve always been too scared to figure out how to use the hole punch for those) , but you’ve made a gold HAND-EMBROIDERED chemise a la reine?! 

That repeating pattern! The elegance of the floral design! The way you’ve used it on the delicate neckline ruffle as well as the hem!! ‘’shimmering stuff which seemed a mass of rich gold embroidery.” - I’d say that’s a perfect representation of Marguerite’s court gown! 

And... don’t even get me STARTED on how beautifully and elegantly you’ve accessorised it with the sash and the matching golden hair ribbons, with your  amazing jewellery-making skills too! I honestly thought your gorgeous collet necklace was one of those lovely (but expensive) reproductions Dames A La Mode or Sign Of the Gray Horse sell on Etsy, until I looked closer - and then my mind was blown!

This is GORGEOUS. And I REALLY admire how talented you are. (Hope I got that across)

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bustle era gown - work in progress

OH wow! That is absolutely breathtaking work! @missgreyunicorn. The sharp tailoring is just to die for! And the use of colour... I swear I’m looking at one of the boating dresses from a James Tissot painting...

really well done! I can’t wait to see how it progresses!!

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captainsigge

My first attempt at making a domed 3D model, this is supposed to be a button. (Without the shank because I'd add it later in the resin stage :P) Inspired by a Phillip V 1723 coin.

Why would I be making a button you ask. Well thank you for asking.😌 Because The Uniforms are bane of my existence of course.

Who gave you the right???

It would probably take at least 50ish buttons for the coat and I don't know about you but I'd rather not spend 100+ € on buttons. Not when I can make them myself. Would they be the same quality? Probably not the same as solid metal buttons but I do think resin can compete with some plastic ones. If only the coat didn't have so many buttons. :/

I now realize I haven't told you what I'm planning. Whoops. Okay, some of you may know I'm going to make a stay, which made me think of making some pirate shirts and pants aaaaannddd then I realized I had a nice thick wool fabric that could make a nice coat and that's how I want to also make a Salazar style coat. :D (Yes I am stealing the most renowned Pirate Hunter's coat for my Pirate Outfit and if that isn't the Ultimate Pirate Move then I don't know what to tell you 😜)

For the white "stripes" I'm most likely going to use a cotton twill tape (thank you @montmartre-parapluie) because I'm a little unsure where I could get my hands on this kind of trim. Never seen a pattern like it before so it might have been made specifically for the film. (Also why do I keep finding all these good photos of the bloody medals NOW and not when I was researching them???? Smh Google is a traitor)

I will not be making the uh shoulder thingys (sorry @acidyellowlava forgot what they were called again) and the medals since I don't want people to stare too much at me, just enough 😌💅✨ kidding kidding

I have ordered the pattern (thank you so much again @montmartre-parapluie I'd be lost without you) but not any cotton tape since I am slightly unsure about the width of them. I'm thinking that the widest is probably 40mm? But I could be wrong so I want to make the coat first and then eyeball the sizes of the different tapes. Same for the buttons. I believe they are 25mm (I doubt they are as large as 30mm but I could be wrong).

I have 3m of the black wool (1.5 m wide), which according to the pattern should be enough. But since I'm not exactly short I'm a little Suspicious 👀 However I could always order more but hopefully it won't come to that!

The first month of 2021 isn't over and I've already planned my whole year full😂 oh well, it's worth it! I'm probably going to make the coat last, hopefully I'll have gotten enough practice from the other stuff by then so that I can do it justice and make Salazar mad.😌

Enough rambling for now, hope you all are staying safe.❤️

*probably Salazar staring in disbelief as @captainsigge​ goes by in her identical, beautiful coat, stealing his look*

OMG though - THOSE BUTTONS! And putting your amazing resin-casting skills to glorious, nefarious costume use - that is sheer GENIUS, I am in AWE here. Just staring in delight imaging how freaking AWESOME this is going to look.

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The Autumn Dress

Apparently I didn’t post this one? Sigh.  Sorry if I’m boring anyone with the sewing posts. 

OMG check out @tockamybeloved and her awesome work! Just so you know.... I want this whole look, as well as your wonderful photoshoot prop game - I’m just about adequate at ‘standing awkwardly in my bedroom’ - that quilted Orange petticoat haunts my dreams with how awesome it looks!!!

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Before I begin with the task of stitching this silk I need a plan for the trim. I am set on not following the pattern for this because honestly the embroidered flowers are a strong statement and I think too much trim will cover up the beauty of the fabric. (also I don’t want to look like a copy of everyone else)

Let’s take a look at some artwork and designs from the period. I’m playing around with the design so the finished gown will probably not be specific to one decade or another. 

Inspiration One:  Princess Sophia Dorothea of Prussia by Antoine Pesne, 1734. I love how simple this dress is. The cuff sleeves instead of ruffles, the obvious lack of trim other than lace.

Inspiration Two:  Jean Francois De Troy: Declaration of Love, 1731. Again, simple, showing off the flowers rather than covering it in layers of ruffles. Cuff sleeves. 

Inspiration Three:  Manteau de robe à la française, milieu du XVIIIe siècle, via: HERE.  I LOVE the buttons! I spent hours going back and forth about how to do the stomacher. Should I make it solid with ribbons? Do I use a contrasting fabric? But then what color, since there are so many flowers to coordinate with?? I think I found my solution. I will make the stomacher the same fabric as the rest of the gown and have it button. Which means…. ugh. Covered buttons. With silk. At least I know what I’m getting myself into! 

I also like the trim here. Gathered but not full ruffles. The sleeves are gathered, and I have some gold lace I will be using. 

Inspiration Four:  Blue Silk Brocade Bodice, 1750-1770 

Still looking for a name to this creation and hoping I will be inspired while sewing. The silk dupioni is on order for the petticoat, and I will be finishing the teal stays while waiting for the rest of the fabric to arrive. 

I did already make the muslin mockup and last week I cut out the silk and pinned it to my dress form just to see how it will piece together. 

The lighting was weird for this picture. The only way to get a true vision of the teal is outside. 

Let me know what you think! 

*arrives late to the party with ‘Sewing Wreath of Triumph* clasped in one hand*

UMPH that COLOUR! I know I’m something of a fabric addict anyway, and don’t need morebut... good lord @tockamybeloved​, you have SUCH a good eye for colour - and this is STUNNING. 

I am LUSTING after this gown already, even in these early stages - and your historical references for inspiration are absolutely perfect. I love the simplicity of the robe francaise - and Sophia Dorothea’s portrait gown is uncannily similar!

I can’t wait to see how this progresses!

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oak1985

Tumblr, I finally got back to sewing after a loooooong hiatus thanks to my amazing wife who said, if you don’t want to work on the 2 patterns you’re stuck on, buy a new pattern. 😯

Pemberly Threads patterns are the easiest to follow that I’ve used yet! Next time I try this one I will cut the front bodice on the fold because I don’t like the seam line up front and will adjust the bodice width because Sam’s shoulders are not only indecorous but somewhat mechanical looking, so the off the shoulder just doesn’t work for her.

But overall I think Samantha looks beautiful in it. I’m really happy to be sewing again.

Samantha looks amazing

OMG I LOVE Pemberley Threads! Seriously, can’t recommend their historical patterns enough for dolls. They look GREAT, and I love the little accessory patterns they do too!

(UNF that pelerine collar... on my to-do list)

I have a small AGAT collection, so I make up the smaller stuff. Your Samantha looks absolutely  wonderful in 1830s gigot sleeves, @oak1985​! Really well done!

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