@montmartre-parapluie / montmartre-parapluie.tumblr.com
Pic heavy below the cut!
Hello again, friends!
With lockdown rules yo-yoing around in my area, not entirely sure if I'll get to wear this any time soon outside an impromptu photoshoot in my back garden - but what the hey, I'll share my plans any way!
There's a delightful exhibit on the history of 18th century Dutch Chintz going on display at the London Textile and Costume Museum later this year, organised by no less than the Fries Museum from Leeuwarden!
A bunch of my fellow 18th century costumers invited me along to attend in 18th century dress - ideally, of course, in chintz, to pay homage to the historic prints on show.
But after looking through my wardrobe...alas, I HAVE no floral cotton gowns to wear!
So yes, that's right, there's another project in the works...
This above delightful silk robe francaise from the Mint Museum has LONG been on my 'to make' list, because that rich red wine colour is just divine (and the talented @tockamybeloved has been really inspiring me with HER fantastic robe francaises from the American Duchess pattern. But I never thought I'd find a fabric that would come close, until i stumbled across this delightful Dutch Heritage reproduction cotton print:
Best yet, it IS an 18th century reproduction print, made by a Dutch company - so I'm honouring the historical Dutch prints by wearing a modern one. There's a really nice symmetry to that.
Not quite the same, and a tad busier (and cotton, not silk), but absolutely PERFECT for paying homage to the exhibition. Plus, cotton will be nice and cool if it's still warm when we plan to attend. If it's outrageously warm I may wear the chemise gown, but this is a nice compromise for if it's a little cooler.
We'll see how it goes - I'll post pictures as I travel along in the making process!
Well the cotton Trailing Blooms robe a l'anglaise is pretty much done(hemming to come). I’m going to make an detachable neck tuck later when I make the cap. I actually should make and wear fichu because the girls are out and about.
I’m still not sure if I want keep it with a white petticoat or make a color petticoat. If I am going to make a color I’m going to go with blue. But then I thought about making an apron to wear. I found this lovely lace table cloth of my Aunt and used it to see what it would look like. I’m loving it, it looks adorable with a little pretty apron. Then since I’m planning on wearing this mostly as a robe a l’anglaise retroussée I thought a lovely quilted petticoat(might do that for the winter). this might be the hardest petticoat dilemma I have ever had.
Oh this is wonderful, @sweetteakisses! I absolutely love the floral print you’ve used - and definitely a big YES to a blue petticoat to match! That will harmonise with the lovely blue satin sash and the muted blue in the print itself marvellously!
But I feel your dilemma. The print is so versatile that it would work with a lot of colours - which doesn’t make the choosing any easier for us seasmstresses! 😁 You could use a white or cream petticoat, or even a soft dusky pink/ peach - but honestly, I think your choice of blue is the right way to go.
Plus, coupled with that gorgeous lace tablecloth as a wonderful 1780s fancy apron? You’re going to look like such a wonderful 1780s spring fashion plate!!
Thank you for sharing your lovely work with us all here!
While waiting for my machine to be cleaned… off to sketch the next project!
With the Teal Dress 98% done and my (perpetual procrastination to pen for passionate persons procreated on the Iberian Peninsula) eagerness to sew not yet quenched, I present the inspiration for the Pink Gown. (which I promise to give a proper name).
Inspired by Spring!
The pink silk is named… Spanish Pink. I looked at no fewer than 17 swatches before settling on this one. So many were ballet pale! Because this gown is huge there was a real chance of making me look like a walking piece of cotton candy.
The top left are the fabrics I am using. The bottom right are the green swatches I had to pick from until I discovered in my fabric stash the green in the top pic.
The top right pic is really close to what I will be trying to execute. And I LOVE all the roses on the front of the middle portrait. That might take more work than I’m willing to commit right now.
I sewed the petticoat foundation in a lovely ecru named ‘macadamia’. Once the gown is stitched I will decide on the trims.
If the muse continues to inspire - and give me a good reason! - I might ribbon embroider the design on the stomacher. (what. am. I. doing.?)
Aaaaaaggghhh @tockamybeloved !!! This is a gorgeous, tempting teaser trailer for a delectable gown to come - I absolutely LOVE green and pink and it’s such a gorgeous 18th century colour combo put together - you’re going to look like a walking rosebud coming into flower!
And the inspiration pictures! Oh my word, you picked some gorgeous ones! although the thought of the flower trimming on that third reference picture put me into a nervous sweat
And you’re going to add some gorgeous ribbonwork embroidery too? HERE FOR IT! Here for all of it!
Hello again, people! I’m pleased to report that the accessory side of the Elizabeth Swann peach gown is now ALSO finished. That’s right, the last few little details have been finished on the matching game bergere hat!
it’s only a little thing, but I absolutely LOVE the hats I’ve made during this project. They’re just so decorative and ornate! You can really let your creativity run wild with them with trimmings, etc, they finish an outfit beautifully - and in this case Penny Rose really spoiled me with the source material to work from. I mean, look at this:
Elizabeth’s is a touch more nude than mine, but as the colours in my gown fabric were a little brighter, the brighter peach ribbon and bias binding suited better.
I.... honestly can’t believe I’ve reached the end of the Elizabeth Swann project, guys ! Lockdown tentatively begins to ease here in the UK soon (touch wood), and... I’ll almost be sad to finish, just because it’s been a project that kept me going and given me goals to reach for. It has definitely been the saving of my mental health during these weird, weird times, no exaggeration.
But I still have the Dead Man’s Chest wedding gown to attempt some time in the future - when I’m insane enough to try it, and that could probably take me into 2022 no problem. And the end of the Elizabeth Swann project certainly won’t mean the end of historical or 18th century sewing for me!
I’m thinking of taking some proper photos of the peach gown once the cherry blossom is out -as I lack a Port Royal fortress to pose decoratively in front of ;-)
in this time of the tumblr anklepocalypse I’ve never been prouder of my blog name
I nearly spat out my drink seeing this on my dash, @anklesalltheway. (You do have the best blog name)
Hello again, friends!
Welp, this is an incredibly weird feeling. Back when I started the Elizabeth Swann Project in early March 2020, I never thought I’d actually finish my insane goal of making all the pretty dresses in the first movie - but it’s done. And it’s a very surreal feeling staring at my wardrobe hoard.
Well, not DONE, per se. Strictly speaking, there should be a golden taffeta petticoat with a quilted hem to match this gown. But the brocade petticoat from the gold gown looked really good with this when making the over-gown - to the point I decided to re-use it - and it looks pretty nice as an ensemble!
Here we have the bodice half-way done, over my stays. One of the things that meant this was an easier job than the gold or plum gown was the trim - super simple level of trimming here - minimal braid around the waistline, neckline and sleeve edges. No frills or ruchings or pleated trim. the 18-20 decorative buttons were time-consuming but not terrible to sew.
The straw hat was another re-do. I simply retrimmed an old plain straw hat I had from my re-enacting days with some spare lace and re-arranged the artificial flowers. I’m still waiting on the ribbon for the ties.
Beneath the Surface:The Foundations
lurks a wonderful, ridonkulous piece of late 18th century foundation wear - the 1780s split rump. I’ve had my eye on this insane piece of underwear for a while now, because it gives the wonderful rounded curve of the overgown when you put on your petticoats. Here’s a fuzzy picture of mine.
I bought mine, very reasonably, from a wonderful UK Etsy seller called Perfect Little Parcel. Any UK-based historical costumers should definitely check her out - she makes really nice foundation garments!
I mean, look at it here in the American Duchess Dressmaking book:
I hesitate to use the words ‘dummy thicc’ , but - this is 18th century ass celebration at its finest, and it just gives a GREAT silhouette once all the petticoats and gown is over it.
The Shoes
I was tempted to order the American Duchess Ivory Kensingtons, but my UK supplier doesn’t stock them right now - and post Brexit ordering direct got a LOT more complicated. So, I improvised with some modern suede 18th century-(ish) shaped shoes, some glue and some rayon binding in approximately the right colour. They still need either buckles or a nice rosette, I think - especially on that right shoe where the ends of the binding show. But they’re comfy and they have the right look.
I’m honestly a little bit sad to finish up the project, it was so enjoyable! I learned a lot, and it’s kept me going through the lockdown blues. Having something to plan and research and work on has been really fun, even when I’ve cut things out wrong or driven pins into my fingers by accident. I now have a hell of a dress-up wardrobe to make use of.
Just the Victorian UFOs (Unfinished Projects) to work on now, I guess... and only 2 of them to go.
Many thanks for enjoying the Elizabeth Swann journey with me, everyone! As soon as the sun re-appears I’ll try for a photoshoot of me actually in the costume.
1st my lovely Regency repo earrings from Lady Detalle. Gold Plated bees with a beautiful pineapple cut lavender blue Alexandrite. They are so beautiful and when I saw them I had to have them. They are a pair of earring that when you wear them you just glow.
and more swatches came. I’m still waiting on the silk fabric I have ordered but the swatches are tying me over. Plus it means I get to order more fabric.
some Bee fabric swatches for a Sleeveless Regency Spencer. the fabric is pretty pricey(and this was the cheaper option I could find) so I’m only going to make a small wardrobe item. So a cute little sleeveless Spencer like below would work perfectly. and any left over will be turned into a reticule and used for the bonnet.
I love the gold bees to match my gold earrings.
I picked out the lighter colors because I was inspired by a vest/waistcoat worn by Benedict in Bridgerton on the show. It might be one of my favorite piece of costume after the pink Queen dress.
I wish I could find a really good picture of the whole waistcoat because it is so adorable. I know that they did it in a least two different colors but I like the lighter colors more.
I need to pick a color
1. Blue
2. Gold
3. white
I think I’m leaning more to blue 1st and the white is a close second. I think I will be able to decide once I pick out fabric for a dress I’m wearing with the Spencer.
I think I’m going to go with this fabric for a dress. I will also make a actual white Regency dress
Now which bee fabric to choose with it
Side Note part of my brain is like these fabrics will clash and another part is “WHO CARES! If you like them do it”
Oh my goodness @sweetteakisses! You’re at it again with MORE wonderful costume plans!
I LOVE the sleeveless spencer look - and your planned fabrics are just swoonworthy! The embroidered bees are perfection.
(And here Mama Bridgerton clearly agrees!)
The great thing is, it’s so hard to choose because they’d ALL go great with that delicious embroidered floral fabric in a gown. You’ve got the tones of the gold and the blue matching perfectly! I really don’t think they’ll clash at all - and if you love it, go for it.
Hey guys! I’m in something of a creative quandary at the moment. I have five craft projects I could be working on, and I kind of want to do them all ...at once. Which happens sometimes, but then it means I can’t do anything because I keep thinking of the other projects. Gaaaaah.
So, listing my current sewing and craft WIPS to help sort my bewildered brain out. Any input thankfully welcomed!
Option 1:
The Elizabeth Swann Project Peach Gown
Bodice is pinned together, pretty much ready for sewing. It’s currently sitting there reproachfully in the corner of my room with it’s unattached trimming draped around its neck..
Option 2:
The Plaid Bustle Gown
After finishing my 18th century plaid gown, I should really finish this Victorian bustle gown... but, I’m kinda sick of looking at this fabric right now. (and the pattern matching - GOD, the pattern matching! Also, although I love the look of the bustle era, the 18th century is so much my comfort area it feels odd stepping out of it (Sewing Questions: Can you cheat on the 18th century?) . This is currently in one of my project boxes as an Unfinished Fabric Object waiting for inspiration to strike. Something to finish for Autumn 2021, I think.
Option 3:
American Girl Doll Gowns
I really, REALLY want to have a go at making these. It all looks so great! The lappet cap! The removable stomachers! The little short jacket!
The bonus is as they’re smaller, they’re a more manageable project than full size gowns, and less time-consuming. Plus I can go fully accurate 18th century and pull out some of my extant patterns if I want! I’ve printed out the free pattern from AG Playthings & cut them out... and I have suitable fabric...
Sigh. But then again, I still have some other sewing projects planned for my A Girl for All Times....
Too many ideas rattling around in my head these days, guys.
And no idea which one I should carry on with!
Pic-heavy post below the cut
And... I can hardly believe it, my friends, but here it is! I’m moving on to planning the final Elizabeth Swann gown from Curse of the Black Pearl!
I have to say, I never thought I’d reach this point. I thought lockdown would be over way before I had a chance to actually finish anything.
But, for better or for worse, here I am! And plonking all my research photos here for future reference.
This gown was actually auctioned on a Propstore website a while back, so there’s plenty of photos.
The gown itself is a simple robe anglaise with fine lace ruffles at the hemline and sleeves, and some burgundy braid detail at the waist, neckline and cuffs. Despite the 25 tiny little wooden buttons down the front, those are for show - there’s no buttonholes, and I’m pretty sure I’ve caught sight of our old friend “hidden snap closures” in a couple of screenshots.
There also appears to be a quilted serpentine pattern on both the overgown...
More a ‘Hey, look how far I’ve come since my first try in 2018!’ post than anything else, but I took a bunch of pictures posing awkwardly in my bedroom and I’m going to dang well use them SOMEWHERE. And this is my favourite gown to date that ISN’T an Elizabeth Swann recreation, so... here I am again inflicting my creations on you all!
I have to say, I’m a LOT happier with the fit than when I first made this up. Granted, I was slanted more towards re-enactment then, so i had different goals in mind, but...I definitely needed time to develop my sewing skills before I could get it to the level I wanted. And having little accessories to make it look like its something I “wear”, like the fichu/neckerchief, cap and bodice ribbon really make it look SO much better.
Self-reminder for myself: keep making things and keep improving! It pays off in the long run!
Well, it only took two months after finishing, but I finally got together enough gumption to do a quick photo session with me actually WEARING the costume, as opposed to arranging it artistically on the dummy. And I have to say, I’m super pleased with how it turned out! The wig was a hesitant first cosplay wig but, but it was easy to style and close enough to my own hair colour - whilst being a nice nod to Keira Knightley’s hair in the film. Also wig glue =magic, people! had a try with that, and it’s so good!!!I didn’t have to worry about losing bobby pins or it falling off my head if I moved. I foresee more use for it in a more historical context... But, in the mean time, I can now dress appropriately should I be abducted by skeletal pirate horrors of nature. Drink up me hearties, yo ho! ☠️☠️☠️
