Yess, go @captainsigge​

*ahem*... lo siento Capitan @thepiratehunter​, but... the striped coat is VERY much admired by SEVERAL ladies I could name. Not only on your respected person, but as an item they desire for themselves.

You surely can’t mean to keep this WONDERFUL style all to yourself? Would it not pay homage to your prowess as a feared pirate-hunter if the admiring gentlewomen of the Caribbean and Spain attire themselves to honour you?

 If you will not permit us to ogle examine the coat, will you at least tell us the name of your tailor?

Yours sincerely,

a hardworking Seamstress 

My first attempt at making a domed 3D model, this is supposed to be a button. (Without the shank because I'd add it later in the resin stage :P) Inspired by a Phillip V 1723 coin.

Why would I be making a button you ask. Well thank you for asking.😌 Because The Uniforms are bane of my existence of course.

Who gave you the right???

It would probably take at least 50ish buttons for the coat and I don't know about you but I'd rather not spend 100+ € on buttons. Not when I can make them myself. Would they be the same quality? Probably not the same as solid metal buttons but I do think resin can compete with some plastic ones. If only the coat didn't have so many buttons. :/

I now realize I haven't told you what I'm planning. Whoops. Okay, some of you may know I'm going to make a stay, which made me think of making some pirate shirts and pants aaaaannddd then I realized I had a nice thick wool fabric that could make a nice coat and that's how I want to also make a Salazar style coat. :D (Yes I am stealing the most renowned Pirate Hunter's coat for my Pirate Outfit and if that isn't the Ultimate Pirate Move then I don't know what to tell you 😜)

For the white "stripes" I'm most likely going to use a cotton twill tape (thank you @montmartre-parapluie) because I'm a little unsure where I could get my hands on this kind of trim. Never seen a pattern like it before so it might have been made specifically for the film. (Also why do I keep finding all these good photos of the bloody medals NOW and not when I was researching them???? Smh Google is a traitor)

I will not be making the uh shoulder thingys (sorry @acidyellowlava forgot what they were called again) and the medals since I don't want people to stare too much at me, just enough 😌💅✨ kidding kidding

I have ordered the pattern (thank you so much again @montmartre-parapluie I'd be lost without you) but not any cotton tape since I am slightly unsure about the width of them. I'm thinking that the widest is probably 40mm? But I could be wrong so I want to make the coat first and then eyeball the sizes of the different tapes. Same for the buttons. I believe they are 25mm (I doubt they are as large as 30mm but I could be wrong).

I have 3m of the black wool (1.5 m wide), which according to the pattern should be enough. But since I'm not exactly short I'm a little Suspicious 👀 However I could always order more but hopefully it won't come to that!

The first month of 2021 isn't over and I've already planned my whole year full😂 oh well, it's worth it! I'm probably going to make the coat last, hopefully I'll have gotten enough practice from the other stuff by then so that I can do it justice and make Salazar mad.😌

Enough rambling for now, hope you all are staying safe.❤️

*probably Salazar staring in disbelief as @captainsigge​ goes by in her identical, beautiful coat, stealing his look*

OMG though - THOSE BUTTONS! And putting your amazing resin-casting skills to glorious, nefarious costume use - that is sheer GENIUS, I am in AWE here. Just staring in delight imaging how freaking AWESOME this is going to look.

18th century stay: Part 1 - Materials

Yup it is happening!😉

My eternal gratitude to @montmartre-parapluie @tockamybeloved and @oenothera5 who have already given me a lot of good advice and tips! It has helped me immensely.❤️

The pattern that I'm going to do is the Butterick 4254 A (thank you for the recommendation @montmartre-parapluie ), with a closed front and open back because I want to make lacing myself as difficult as possible :) for funsies. :))) I've already ordered the pattern but I haven't ordered the fabrics yet. However, I think I have finally figured out the look and found the best materials to bring it to life.

My first plan was to keep everything quite low-key and plain since I love the simplicity of natural linen, but then I got sick and had no energy to do anything but look at fabrics 😂 So that idea went out of the window quite quickly when I found this G. O. R. G. E. O. U. S. brocade (189gsm) at Sartor.cz.😍

I'm not really a pink type of person, I usually prefer burgundy red. But we can't always choose what we fall in love with and this reminds me of the whimsicality of fairytales. I mean is it just me who's seeing dragons and mermaids in the pattern? I don't even care if the colours of the fabric won't suit me because LOOK AT IT!!😍🤤 It's so beautiful that my complexion won't matter.

Did someone say...?

My idea is to use this brocade in the front panel piece so that it's kind of like a "stomacher" but wider. (We aren't really going for historical accuracy here anyways). I guess I could also sew on a piece of the brocade in a stomacher shape to create a "fake stomacher kind of effect"?🤔 I will have to think on it.

On the sides of the corset I'm putting this lovely light coral linen (198gsm).🧜‍♀️💗 (Complete coincidence but clearly the Norns want this corset too) Some corset coutil (280gsm) as interlining and natural coloured linen (116gsm) as lining.

Noooowwww for decorations...

Some pink cotton bias tape, double-faced 16mm cream satin ribbon (614), double-faced 3mm pink satin ribbon, a light gold 3mm cord and a rose pink 6mm flat cord.

If the cream ribbon is too large to tie the shoulder straps properly, I will fake it and add them above the "real shoulder strap ribbon" which would be the 3mm pink ribbon. The light gold cord is for lacing the stay and the flat cord is for strengthening the places where I've put the stay together. Also adds a bit of decoration.☺️

I think that was all.🤔 This will either work or be a complete mess but I've tried my best to match and contrast the colours with what I have. :)

Gonna order the fabrics tomorrow when my brain works. I want to go through everything again in my mind to ensure that I have everything. (I have not shown all materials here, e.g. 6mm boning, just the interesting ones.)

Until next time,

Sigge

Literally my face at tempting another person into historical costuming....

oh, @captainsigge , those FABRICS!! That pink silk damask! (AND you ordered from Sartor.cz?! JEALOUS. I’ve been lusting after their fabrics for YEARS, hoping they visit the UK for the re-enactment markets) You aren’t wrong- I started to look and I can absolutely see royal mermaids with ornate tails in there with the dragons. And that coral fabric will go beautifully! You’ve got a great eye for colour and what goes great together already. These stays are going to be STUNNING. ( and damn it, you’re making me side-eye my stays wondering if I can justify making another set in silk....

I can’t wait to see how this progresses!

I want a 18th century stay.

Why did my brain decide on this fixation? No idea, but I will put the blame squarely on @montmartre-parapluie and @tockamybeloved shoulders for creating such amazing works of art.😍 You've infested me with this obsession, I hope your happy 😜 I mean there's only so much a girl can take before she caves😂

I CAN'T MaKe A STAY god damn it! But my brain doesn't listen. So now I'm considering buying one, but I'm unsure how accurately one can make one from just my measurements without a fitting to make sure it fits.🤔

*Mutters* no brain we cannot make it ourselves, we have the attention span of a goldfish, it wouldn't get finished. Especially when we are not immediately good at it.😝

Brain™:

*sighs*

This is going to end with me making one isn't it?

JOIN USSSS, @captainsigge!!!! Join the international ranks of costume nerds!!

Although... seriously: whilst they look pretty, I LOATHE making stays with the fire of a thousand suns. @tockamybeloved is the magic seamstress who can whip them up over a weekend - I moan and whine and put off the process as long as possible, because the boning and the eyelet making and binding is so labour-intensive and boring for me. I think it may be down to temperament *sigh* I am no natural staymaker.

However, I know you’re already super talented with your gorgeous La Maria-themed plushies! 😍 So, thought I’d give you two options, being a shameless enabler:

1:Make it

If you’re willing to join us ranks of insane sewing people and make your own stays, I used Butterick pattern 4254!

I recommend it over the Simplicity American Duchess ‘Outlander’ stays, mostly because it made up very short on my freakishly long body..The Butterick pattern had a good fit, and great easy to follow instructions. It also gives you the option to have front or backlacing stays, which is nice - and on the whole, it’s a pretty accurate pattern made by mainstream pattern companies. I used it to make my Elizabeth Swann stays! Stays don’t use a lot of material, so you do ‘t need to buy lots of fabric the same way you would a dress. However, when it comes to boning, you’ll need a fair bit. Likewise on metal grommets (or, if you’re a weirdo like me, and prefer making them by hand, sore fingers from using an awl to punch holes through so much) Materials aren’t so bad - but timewise, stays can take a while!

2) Fake it!

IF you’re not striving for historical accuracy and want a fun nod to the 18th century with less boning/gnawing of fingernails, Butterick also does this corseted top that has the look of stays as well as the support, but with modern boning and simpler structure!

There’s no fiddly tabs at the bottom to bind, and it still has boning and lacing, just like a real corset, along with some pretty front/ back lacing options and decoration ideas.This would be a good place to start if full-blown 18th century stays are a bit scary, but you’d like something similar and awesome. Again, pretty okay in terms of materials and fabric to buy for this!

Option 3: Buy it.

The expensive option - but it’s a worthwhile investment if you’re intending to get some serious wear out of them!You can find stays ready-made or made to order on places like Etsy. Before I built up my sewing confidence I was lucky enough to find some stays there for about £95 - but that was about the cheapest price they go. Stays stand to be solidly in the £150- £500 range because of the work that goes into them with the boning. I actually ferreted around Etsy and found a seller from Finland who does stays - HistoricalVintageFI does some , although it’s a bit pricy at £205.

Okay, this turned out a LOT longer than I thought it would, but hope I’ve given you some possible ideas/starting points there! Feel free to hit me up on messages with any questions - I LOVE hearing about other people’s sewing projects and ideas!

In which the Lieutenant is uneasy, and it is made clear that the embajadora’s voyage will not be an easy one…

LOVED IT!!!😍😍 WOW, you have such a way with words it’s amazing like the way you describe the emotions is AMAZING. I could feel Lesaro’s dilemma so deeply. Btw you wrote his POV perfectly! You’re not hiding him somewhere are you?? Interrogating him so that you can write him so splendidly? I am getting slightly suspicious my dear😜🕵🏻‍♀️

Oooh can’t wait to see how the Captain will fuck it up next.🤣 Such a charmer. (That backstory/ flashback thou!😭 It hit me right in the feels so like I’d probably just hug that idiot man😭😭❤️) but the way he was charmed by her was sooooo sweet 🥺

Awesome chapter, you get the Sigge Stamp of Approval! 😉😂❤️

(This was basically my reaction to seeing this reblog/review, @captainsigge​!)

*shifty eyes as I stuff the Lieutenant in a wardrobe * 

“Quick, they’re on to us! You hide behind those dresses and stay there!”

I have a lot of love for conflicted Lesaro. He radiates such ‘tired Dad’ energy - he needs a hot drink and a hug and for Capitan not to make any impulsive, self- destructive decisions for once...

(HAH, good luck on that one!)

And obsessed, ‘furtive heart-eyeing the Senora’ Salazar is way too much fun to write, too, I had a crisis of conscience with the tragic flashback, because I don’t want to be George R R Martin - making characters suffer is mean! (but oh so full of DRAMA potential) But it’ll work out in the end. I have fluff planned for the man’s future...

Don't you just hate it when you got a perfect idea for a project and know how you could make it but you also know that you're not skilled enough to do it yet. :/

Of course the idea is now stuck in my head as my brain desperately tries to figure out how to make it, going through the whole procedure through every possible angle 😂🤦🏻‍♀️

(apologies for the obligatory Moomin GIF, but it was a sewing/crafting one and I couldn’t resist!) 

Awww! *hugs* If it’s any consolation I get EXACTLY the same thing with my costume-making, @captainsigge​! It’s like a fire in my brain: unless I make it and PLAN it and THINK about it, it won’t go away - even if it requires X, Y & Z knowledge I don’t actually have yet.  Don’t worry, you’ll figure it out!

And I’m quite sure Plushie!Lesaro understands completely (let’s be honest - as long as you haven’t abandoned him with his newfound humanity in a watery crevasse to pursue Vengeance! forsaken him forever, I think you ‘re good.He applauds all the effort you’ve put in on his behalf!