In pursuit of making this recipe as written, I had to source short ribs at short notice. (My grocery store doesn't typically stock them.) I was a little nervous, because I don't have a car and wasn't sure if maybe I'd have to leave the city---
----only to discover there is a legitimate full-service butcher about a 10 minute bike ride from my apartment. It's been there for about 75 years; I've biked past before but never gone in. Waiting for my order to be prepared, I was delighted to wander through the aisles of various frozen meats, sausages and ravioli, prepared foods, and more flavors of mustard than I've seen in recent memory.
But the part that amazes me is just how incredibly busy it was. There was a line at the deli counter, where people could order sandwiches. There were lines at the meat counters themselves---yes, counters plural!---and the general hubbub was often broken by the butchers calling out numbers since you had to take a ticket to be helped. They have a pick up window, which I know because one of the employees carried over two turkeys, one under each arm, slid open the window and bellowed TWO TURKEYS FOR MARY. (I don't know why he yelled, Mary was right there, but it was evocative.)
I can't say for certain why that busy scene struck me. Maybe because it feels like something out of time, a throwback to when grocers focused on dry goods and the freezer aisle was new, a novelty. I've felt it before---I still remember picking up an order from a real bakery, and being a little awed that they did nothing all day but bake, that that was enough to power a busy, thriving location. Or the bakery where I took my sourdough class, the place where I get my knives sharpened, the store where they grind coffee and spices, or even that magic shop I wandered into once by accident. I think it's good to be reminded sometimes that some people do incredibly niche things, and they're there if you want them.
According to the founder's obituary, there were 25 butcher shops in the neighborhood when this place opened; now, it's the only one. But you know what? The sausage is delicious all the same.