Spotlight: Daimonji’s Sakkō Outfit With the excitement of Katsuna’s erikae comes a look at the outfit that Daimonji has been using for its girls for well over a decade. From top to bottom we have: Silver and Gold Pine Daikin/Daikan Kanzashi Worn by Katsune and Katsuna in the series of images as Katsuru was photographed during The Kitano Odori and Katsuya wore the outfit for the Kitano Odori as well. Pine is a symbol of endurance and strength and shows a commitment to the life of a geiko. Gold Karabana Darari Obi Daimonji’s most formal obi, it features karabana (imaginary/fantasy flowers) in both rounds and diamonds. It’s very chic with an arabesque look to it that’s accented by real silver and gold threads in the obi. Dusty Pink Iromontsuki Hikizuri It’s a bit hard to see in some of the images, but this kimono is an iromontsuki; that is, a formal colored kimono bearing the kamon of the okiya. Its motifs are a very unique spring orchid with bamboo, lattice, and clouds. Breaking down the motifs further: Spring Orchids - Shunran (春蘭) Among the first flowers to bloom in the spring, they often accompany peonies and are usually accents to a kimono instead of the main motif. While the other motifs are impressive, it is plain to see that the orchids are what make this piece unique as they’re in the spotlight and not the background. They represent femininity and elegance, hence why they’re often paired with the masculine peony. Bamboo Leaves - Sasa (笹) As talked about before in the “What’s In a Motif?” series, bamboo represents fresh growth and it flows both from the ground with the orchids and up the lattice. It’s interesting to note that only the bamboo leaves are present and not the stalks too - this serves to both keep the focus on the orchids and provide a way for the viewer’s eyes to travel upward. Lattice - Kōshi (格子) This one is a bit more self explanatory as the lattice serves as a guide with which plants will grow. Its main purpose is to provide support for the future, both literally and metaphorically for the maiko wearing this piece. Clouds - Kumo (雲) You may look at this piece and wonder where the clouds are, but it turns out that they’re the entire bottom hem of the hikizuri! The clouds give the piece a dream like quality and provide a lovely maroon contrast to the hikizuri’s dusty pink. Images are courtesy of Caitlin Downey (Katsuya), Onihide (Katsuru), KWC Photo (Katsune), and Fragrantolive11 (Katsuna).
Furisode. Mid to late Meiji period (1880-1911), Japan. The Kimono Gallery. A chirimen (crepe) silk furisode featuring yuzen-dyeing, silk and metallic thread highlights. Five mon. The peacock is associated with the Japanese goddesses of mercy. In the Buddhist tradition, the peacock’s ability to eat poisonous snakes can be understood as a symbol of the transmutation of evil into good. It is also considered the representation of true beauty. The green peacock is said to have been introduced into Japan in the year 1680. As the flower of summer, the peony has always been regarded as a symbol of magnificent wealth, fortune and prosperity to the extent that it is sometimes known as the ‘king of flowers”. The peony has a lush, full, and beautiful bloom suggesting luxury and opulence and has become an emblem of regal power in Japan. Rich in color and beauty, the peony was regarded as the flower of riches and honor, associated with aristocracy and prosperity. The peony is the rose without thorns, and so embodies romance and love, and is regarded as an omen of good fortune and a happy marriage as well. The depiction of a phoenix or peacock among flowering peonies is a decorative motif that dates to at least the eighth century in China. In Japan, Ando Hiroshige (1797-1858), the foremost woodblock artist of his day, specialized in scenes of birds and flowers: the peacock with peonies was a favorite subject for Hiroshige. Hiroshige’s art was very popular among the wealthy of Japan during the 19th century, and likely inspired the extraordinary artwork on this furisode. The conjunction of the auspicious peacock and peony motifs enhances the furisode’s function and is an indication of the gender and high status of its wearer.
While scrolling a friend’s page I saw this entry for a furisode whose description started out nice, but then just got progressively worse the longer it went on. I’m not talking about its spelling or grammar, but rather how they described this kimono. For people who apparently sell kimono for a living you’d think they’d know what they were looking at, but this isn’t the first time I’ve seen one of their entries randomly come across my dash that was riddled with errors. So, what are we really looking at here? The first thing that caught my attention was the mention of “peacocks” on this piece. I’m not sure how you manage to think that a nightingale is somehow a large peacock as one is very large and showy and the other is small and sparrow-like. Secondly was the peony information. The only part they got right was by stating that peonies have the nickname of the “king of flowers,” with everything else being just absolutely wrong. Peonies are a spring symbol as that’s when they bloom. Nightingales are also a spring motif, and both the peony and nightingale are associated with the month of March. The other giveaway that this wasn’t a summer kimono was that it’s made from thick chirimen silk. The Japanese are very particular when it comes to coordinating with the seasons, so it would be ridiculous to find supposed summer patterns on an all season (October to May) kimono. The final issue is that they never even addressed the other plant with the peony, which speaks to their lack of understanding or laziness. The small wispy flowers with the long leaves growing with the peonies are spring orchids which, as the name suggests, blooms in the early spring at the exact same time as the peonies. Ukiyo-e didn’t influence kimono design as it was actually seen as an art form for the lower classes (re: the incredibly rich but low ranking merchant class) and to have something resembling a woodblock print on your kimono was admitting that you were a member of a lower class. Since it’s not black (the highest formality) this means that it was once owned by a wealthy family who was of a higher class and could afford multiple furisode. The age is also an issue as the padded hems of the Meiji are absent and instead features the ryōzuma patterns that were popular in the Early Taisho (1912-1926). So, tl;dr: The small birds are nightingales, not peacocks, peonies are a spring motif (as are nightingales), the small plants that were ignored are spring orchids, making this a spring kimono from the Taisho Period (1912-1926) due to the ryōzuma pattern.