What’s In a Kimono? Part 4
Today’s entry is bringing it back to actual kimono, but with an interesting piece that’s unique in more ways than one!
Name: Yugiri (遊戯蜊) - Game of Shells Type: Furisode (振袖) Time Period: Taisho (1912-1926) Age: Antique (90 - 104 Years old) Condition: Excellent - No Fading, Tears, or Stains Material: Silk Motif(s): Kai Awase (Shell Matching Game), Hiōgi (Cypress Fan), Maple Leaves, Orange Blossoms, Cherry Blossoms, Wisteria, Plum Blossoms, Chrysanthemums, Peonies Execution and Technique: Rinzu, Expert Painterly Skills Value: $400 - 500 USD This is a furisode (振袖), a type of kimono traditionally worn by unmarried women. Its name literally translates to “swinging sleeves” as the long sleeves were said to attract the attention of a suitor (I am not kidding). For the most part, furisode have been a type of formal wear as they’re often expensive to make and incredibly elaborate in their designs. So, a girl would traditionally own 3 different furisode in her life. The first would be when she’s 3 years old and celebrates her first Shichigosan (七五三), the day where boys who are 3 and 5 years old and girls who are 3 and 7 years old visit their local shrine to receive blessings of protection and fortune. The small furisode worn by 3 year old girls is called Mitsumi (三つ身), which literally translates as “3 year old wear.” Due to cost a family will usually commission a furisode that a girl will be able to wear for both her 3 year old visit and her 7 year old visit (and any formal occasions in between). To allow for a 3 year old to wear an outfit that would fit a 7 year old tucks were added to the shoulders, sleeves, and waist that would be let out as the girl grew. Maiko today still wear kimono with tucks on both their shoulders and sleeves as a sign that they are still young girls. The second furisode would be for when the girl was of age to be formally introduced to society as available to marry. The age of this is debatable, but it was likely around 13 or 14 years old. The third would then be for her wedding, which she would traditionally cut the sleeves from afterwards and wear as a married woman. This is why the most formal kimono for women are called tomesode (留袖), as it translates to “fastened/cut sleeves.” As furisode were formal wear they were almost always crested with kamon to proudly show what family they belonged to. With that basic information out of the way, you may see how this particular furisode doesn’t match with what I’ve laid out. Its size is more indicative of someone around 10 years old; too large for a 7 year old yet too small for a teenager. Also, it has no kamon. So, what’s up with that? Well, this furisode was commissioned by and worn by a girl from a very affluent family. How can you tell this? Well, here’s some of the reasons why: -As mentioned, its size. If a family could own more than 3 furisode then they were well off. -To also have one that doesn’t have crests, that is, this piece is not of the absolute highest formality, shows that this family owned many furisode and that their children frequented many formal occasions. -It’s made with the same techniques as the highest quality furisode (unique rinzu, master dyeing skills, exceptional yuzen), which almost makes you wonder why crests weren’t added ^^; -Its motifs, the kai awase and cypress fan, were common items used by the highest ranking noble women during the height of Japanese culture, the Heian Period (794-1185). Kai Awase (貝合わせ) is a game played with shells that is akin to the English game “Memory.” The shells are all decorated with various motifs, usually flowers, animals, paintings, or people, and each shell has an identical matching shell that you need to find by flipping them over individually. When playing by yourself you’re supposed to match all of the shells with the fewest amount of moves possible. To have owned a set of shells for kai awase meant that the family was not only rich, but that its children were well educated. To play kai awase means that a person is highly educated and a connoisseur of the arts. The Hiōgi (檜扇) is a fan that Heian noblewomen held at all times. To show one’s face, specifically the mouth, was seen as uncouth and by hiding one’s face below the eyes allowed for an element of refinement and mystery. Brides will sometimes hold one during their wedding ceremonies, but they are incredibly expensive to buy (or even rent) as cypress trees take a long time to reach maturity and are considered a wood that purifies the spirit, which then puts them in high demand for various Shinto rituals. The rinzu on this piece is in the shape of kasumi (霞), a cloud-like haze. This hearkens to the Heian Period known as a “dream of the perfect society” and gives the piece an ethereal feel. The flowers and plants featured on this piece shows that this was meant to be worn between October and May and is very much a multi-season piece. The flowers are representative of the following seasons: Fall: Red Maple Leaves (紅葉), Chrysanthemums (菊) Winter: Plum Blossoms (梅), Orange Blossoms (立花) Spring: Cherry Blossoms (桜), Peonies (牡丹), Wisteria (藤), Green Maple Leaves (楓) The condition is unusually well preserved in that it shows absolutely no signs of aging and it’s possible that it was worn only once and then held in storage for many years. When I bought this piece the seller’s photographers weren’t too great and I actually thought that this was a haori, but upon receiving it I was surprised to find that my haori was a beautiful and unique furisode. The price reflects its incredible condition and amazing quality. It is truly unique and I hope that you can all look forward to more pieces that are exceptions in their make or material.