Kanzashi of The Month: March - Daffodils

Nearly two years ago I made what I thought would be my last kanzashi series entry, but then Kazurasei sucks me right back in with a motif that they've never posted before and thus, I never got a chance to cover before. So, here we are, once again, with another kanzashi motif! As always, kanzashi are courtesy of Kazurasei.

Image is courtesy of Kazurasei. Suisen (水仙) - Daffodil One of the rarer motifs, daffodils have some interesting symbolism. Their scientific name, Narcissus, is an ode to the Greek nymph of the same name who fell so in love with his own reflection that he eventually turned into a flower that drooped down towards water to eternally watch himself. Even its Japanese name, Suisen, translates to "Water Hermit," alluding to its Greek origins. Like its origin story, daffodils grow on upright stems but flower outward, slightly drooping, and can be found growing wild in fields, marshes, or near water. They're a perennial bulb, so they come back year after year, but don't need to be dug up like other bulbs as they're extremely cold hardy. They're praised worldwide as being heralds of spring as they're among the first flowers to bloom once the weather begins to warm. Since they're a bulb they're often grown inside and given as gifts to wish others a happy spring before the perennial kind bloom outside.

Image courtesy of Onihide-san. When it comes to maiko, daffodils are only worn by senior maiko, like Ichifuku (市福) of Masunoya (桝之矢) in Pontocho (pictured above). Single flowers or bunches of three are the most commonly seen, but in rare cases, like above, you'll see a cluster of them!

Kanzashi of The Month: January - 2023′s Design

On The Twelfth Day Of Fun I present... this year’s kanzashi! Thank you to everyone who’s been following along with the features this year! If I didn’t get to your ask during TTDOF then please know that I still may have it kicking around and will get to it eventually. For now, let’s look at what 2023′s bringing us!

Image courtesy of Shigemori.  Sensu (扇子) - Folding Fans Matsu (松) - Pine Kangiku (寒菊) - Winter Chrysanthemum This year’s kanzashi has a nice, classic look to it with shiny folding fans accented with bright green pine! It’s cute to notice that the plum blossoms on the middle of the fans cover each color that plum blossoms bloom in (white, pink, and red) and don’t repeat. The pine makes a very bold and masculine statement to balance out the very feminine folding fans and plum blossoms, giving it a yin yang feel. As usual, we have kangiku acting as a base, with pink and white being used for senior maiko, like Fukusono above. 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei.  2023 just happens to be the Year of The Rabbit in the Asian zodiac! Known for being the luckiest of the twelve animals, rabbits are also blessed with intellect and charm. In Japanese mythology it is said that a rabbit resides on the moon pounding mochi (rice cakes). There’s an interesting story of how the rabbit got on the moon in the first place: One day the king of the gods came through the forest disguised as a beggar. Various animals all came to offer the beggar something to eat, but the rabbit could only provide grass. In an act of self sacrifice, the rabbit threw itself onto a fire to cook itself for the beggar. The king, recognizing the rabbit’s sacrifice, placed the rabbit on the moon for all to see and thus the rabbit now lives on the moon ^^

What’s That Thing? Part 28

On The Eighth Day Of Fun I present... another ask! I’ve been holding onto this one for MONTHS because I’ve loved it SO much! So, let’s get to it! Anonymous asked: “What are some unique kanzashi? If possible can you please attach the pictures.”   YES. YES I CAN!

Image courtesy of Kaden. I love this take on a June kanzashi! It features weeping willow hiding a stunning egret on a bed of summer asters on top of a flowing river! Egrets are a common sight along the rivers of Kyoto in the summer and their feathers are used in the katsuyama pieces for the annual Gion Matsuri kanzashi ^^ 

Image courtesy of Sakuratefutefu. This piece was worn by Toshinana (とし七菜) of Komaya (駒屋) in Miyagawa Cho. It’s an awesome take on flashy fireworks! Usually fireworks are made from mizuhiki cords, but these ones are made from tsumami silk with rhinestone accents. 

Image courtesy of Sagane Narumi.  This pincushion flower is truly unique! Not only have I not seen another one like it, but its bright and shiny center just draws your eyes right to it. This was worn in September when the purple hues are just perfect for the season! 

Image courtesy of Nagayoshi Gofukuten. This chestnut kanzashi has been worn by generations of Arai maiko as it was made by one of the preeminent kanzashi makers of Tokyo. It’s so realistic that you’d swear that Mameroku was wearing freshly cracked chestnuts! 

Image courtesy of Hikocd. This interesting one is a hollyhock, as can be divined by the very standout leaves. Symbols of the Tokugawa family for centuries, the hollyhock is still a revered plant for medicinal purposes ^^ 

Spotlight: Alternative January Kanzashi While the yearly kanzashi are always in the spotlight, it’s important not to forget the kanzashi that the maiko of Kamishichiken and Gion Higashi wear too. Often featuring the same design elements as the other kagai, they’re unique in that they don’t need to feature kangiku as a base. They still use the same motifs that the other kagai pull from, but they feature them in unique combinations. The kanzashi above feature the following motifs: Kanzashi #1 Cranes (鶴), Pine (松), and Plum Blossoms (梅) Kanzashi #2 Folding Fans (扇子) and Pine (松) Kanzashi #3 Battledores (羽子板), Pine Needles (松葉), and Plum Blossoms (梅) Kanzashi #4 Bobbins (糸巻), Plum Blossoms (梅), and Pine (松) Kanzashi #5 Plum Blossoms (梅), Pine Needles (松葉), and Pine (松) Kanzashi #6 Cranes (鶴) and Pine (松) All images are courtesy of Gion Dteel Product [1] [2].

Kanzashi of The Month: January - 2020′s Design

On The Ninth Day of Fun I present... a new look at a new kanzashi! Since Kazurasei uploaded images of the actual 2020 design and not just a replacement like last year we can take a good look at what this year has in store! As always, all kanzashi are courtesy of Kazurasei.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei.  Ume (梅) - Plum Blossoms Matsuba (松葉) - Pine Needles Ezogiku (蝦夷菊) - Chinese Asters To be honest, Kazurasei knocked the symbolism out of the park this time around! Last year we were treated to large clumps of pine, which are symbols of growth and masculinity, that hinted at the coming change in emperors. This year we see the remnants of the pine left behind in the form of pine needles to remind us of this change. In their stead we see the pine replaced with large plum blossoms, a symbol of hope and rebirth. Like last year the main symbols are set on a base of colored cords to make them “pop” a bit more over the other motifs. To keep things classy the pine needles all feature a rhinestone as an accent and the asters all have rose gold colored pearls for centers!

Image courtesy of Tomoko of Maiko Theatre. The symbols also make sense when looking at the current Asian zodiac too! This year is the Year of The Rat, which is the first animal in the zodiac and is a return to the start of the cycle. More specifically, 2020 is the year of the metal rat, which is is considered a strong, masculine symbol that pairs well with the clever rodent ^^

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. This all pairs well with the dove maezashi traditionally worn for the first two weeks of the month. Usually the dove is always accompanied by a plum blossom, but last year they also featured pine to match with the main maiko kanzashi. This year they simply feature plum blossoms, but accented with flower buds to match the main kanzashi too! The kushi in the background is perfect for the season as it not only compliments the red in the of the plum but brings to mind green pine. Maiko would wear that kushi with their casual outfits during the day or possibly by senior maiko in districts where the monthly kanzashi is only worn for the first two weeks, such as Pontocho ^^

Kanzashi of The Month: July - Gion Matsuri 2019′s Design

Back in March at the “end” of the series I had stated: “If different motifs come up in the future that I haven’t covered then I may do another one of these.” Well, it has! Kazurasei has uploaded this year’s Gion Matsuri design, so let’s take a look at this sparkling beauty! As always, all kanzashi are courtesy of Kazurasei. 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Tonbo (蜻蛉) - Dragonflies Tsuyu Shiba (露柴) - Dew On Grass Tessen (鉄線) - Clematis Like January’s New Year’s kanzashi, a new design is chosen each year for the extremely important Gion Matsuri (祇園祭). It is one of the three major festivals of Japan and takes place each year from July 1st to 31st. During this time the great spirits who are enshrined at Yasaka Shrine come out from their home and enjoy their time among the common people. However, it is July 10th to 24th that are considered the most important days of the festival for geimaiko as these are the most animated of days. Beginning on the 10th the great Yamaboko (山鉾) parade floats that will house the spirits are re-assembled in preparation for their ceremonial rides in the great parade held on the 17th. The three nights leading up to the great parade are known as Yoi-Yoi-Yoi-Yama (宵々々山), Yoi-Yoi-Yama (宵々山), and Yoi-Yama (宵山), in which many outdoor festivals and beer gardens can be enjoyed in the streets in and around Gion. Maiko and geiko are often seen serving tourists at these beer gardens and accompanying guests to enjoy the revelry. The entire event culminates with the Hanagasa Junko (花笠巡行), the second major parade that the geimaiko will personally take part in on July 24th. Each year the kagai sets of Gion Kobu/Miyagawa Cho and Pontocho/Gion Higashi will take turns riding in special floats during the parade and then dancing on the stage at Yasaka Shrine at the end of it. These dedication dances are always seen as a great honor to the women who are chosen to perform as most only get one opportunity to do so.

Image courtesy of Kenshin Kido. Like with the January kanzashi the same rules when it comes to who will be wearing them are followed; Gion Kobu and Miyagawa Cho will wear the new design each year while it remains optional in Pontocho and Gion Higashi and avoided altogether in Kamishichiken. In the areas where it’s optional the maiko there will often wear kanzashi that display general summer designs, sometimes even showcasing annual designs from year’s past. A list of general summer motifs found on maiko kanzashi can be viewed here. The kanzashi will, however, always feature clematis as a base, just as January will have the Chinese asters for theirs. Clematis are easily distinguished from other flowers due to their unique make up that consists of six evenly spaced petals; when it comes to kanzashi the majority of flowers have either four or five. For the yearly design each main motif will have different colors depending on seniority. Junior maiko will wear dragonflies with darker colored bodies, such as a brilliant red. In contrast, senior maiko, like Koeri (小衿) of Hiroshimaya (廣島屋) in Gion Kobu (above), will wear dragonflies with pink bodies. Junior maiko wear darker or more striking colors to show that they are still young and inexperienced while the more subdued colors of the senior maiko are indicators of their maturity. Each design will, however, feature a single addition that has remained constant for decades: egret feathers! The elegant white birds are often found along the shores of the many rivers that intersect Kyoto during the summer, and the tradition of their swaying feathers being part of the Gion Matsuri kanzashi has existed for over a century. Where they were once hunted for their feathers today they are ethically sourced and farmed so as to not deplete the native egret population. 

Kanzashi of The Month: March - Canola Blossoms and Butterflies

It’s finally here! The final month in the kanzashi calendar! When I started this almost a year ago I never thought that it would be as popular as it’s turned out to be, so it makes me really happy to know that everyone’s enjoyed it so much! If different motifs come up in the future that I haven’t covered then I may do another one of these. Otherwise, thanks for coming along for the ride! As always, all kanzashi are courtesy of Kazurasei.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Nanohaha (菜の花) - Canola Blossoms Chō (蝶) - Butterflies March is the month where almost every kagai is practicing diligently for the upcoming spring odori season, so everyone is rushing around and making sure that they’re keeping up with everything that’s going on. This month goes by like a blur, but thankfully its main motifs do not!  Depending on how you want to translate them, nanohana can either be called Canola Blossoms or Rape Blossoms in English. Technically rape blossoms are “more” correct as they are the wild variety of the plant, but canola blossoms are the hybridized form that we more commonly know the plant to be. I personally prefer using canola blossoms as some people may feel uncomfortable hearing the term “rape blossoms”; that, and canola were hybridized here in Canada (go team!). These flowers are known to be the first of the wildflowers to bloom along the sides of roads and in the countryside. Their bright color is a sign that the snow is gone and that everything is coming back to life again.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. At the same time, butterflies that pupated and remained in their cocoons over the winter are finally emerging as adults, and one of their first sources of food is the canola blossom! The butterflies that emerge first as adults are a common species known as the cabbage white butterfly; like its name, it can be found abundantly around leafy greens and vegetable gardens throughout the spring and summer. Just like butterflies searching for nectar you can also enjoy munching on this plant; the flowers, stems, and leaves can all be eaten as salad greens! You can usually find this plant as part of a salad bowl or even on its own at your local nursery if you’ve ever wanted to try it for yourself. Otherwise, you may even have it growing wild near you! The underside of the silver butterflies on this kanzashi are coated with a pink paper so that they reflect well. This is done for two specific reasons: 1) The reflection of the pink paper off the wings of the silver butterflies makes it appear as though the’re really fluttering while a maiko moves with this kanzashi in her hair. 2) The pink contrasts well with the green leaves in the kanzashi, so your eyes will automatically be drawn to it.

Image courtesy of Sapporo Koume. When it comes to maiko you can see canola worn by all ranks, but are the most popular with junior maiko due to their small blossoms. The flowers, while mainly yellow, are often accompanied by white or pink blossoms in the same shape as a way to show other wild flowers growing among them and to add a nice contrast with the butterflies. As can be seen with Koume (小梅) of Sapporo (above), the white blossoms and pink buds mixed in with the yellow flowers just screams spring! When the shidare is taken away as a maiko becomes more senior, like with Toshinana (とし七菜) of Komaya (駒屋) in Miyagawa Cho (below), the butterflies become the true focus as their sparkle and shine look like real fluttering butterflies. Since silver and gold butterflies play an important part in April’s motifs these smaller versions act as a sort of precursor to the larger ones that we’ll see in the coming months ^^

Image courtesy of Oya Oya Photo.

Kanzashi of The Month: February - Plum Blossoms

It’s another one of those entries where a single motif is synonymous with the month for its importance. As usual, all kanzashi are from Kazurasei. 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Ume (梅) - Plum Blossoms Although a member of the Shōchikubai AKA The Three Friends of Winter, plum blossoms are the de facto symbol of the start of spring as they are among the first flowers to bloom in the new year. In Japan the beginning of spring and the traditional start of the new year is called Setsubun (節分), which takes place from February 2nd to 4th. During this time the first plum blossoms begin to bloom while practically every other tree or bush is barren. Their colors, ranging from white to pink to red, are a welcome sight in an otherwise bland winter landscape.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. The simple style of plum blossoms makes them a classic motif that’s even added to casual kanzashi worn by ordinary people that can be worn year round. Their silk count is quite low compared to other kanzashi as well since a single plum blossom requires only five pieces of silk. It’s also unique in that it “doubles” itself when making larger blooms; that is, a medium sized kanzashi, like the one above, will have two flowers acting as one while a large sized kanzashi, like the one below, can have four flowers acting as one! This is done in order to mimic real plum blossoms as larger sized blossoms will have more petals. It’s also done to differentiate them from cherry blossoms as the two can sometimes look nearly identical.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Another important feature of plum kanzashi are the additions of small branches with red buds. This is meant to mimic real plum blossoms as they bloom profusely on old branches instead of new sprouts like most other flowering frees. Plum blossoms also bloom in stages, so once the first flowers have finished blooming the second set will be at their peak. Sometimes a golden branch is added, which makes the flowers appear as though they’re blooming directly on said branch and adds an extra bit of color.

Image courtesy of Shinnosuke164. When it comes to maiko there are two public events that they can wear these to. The first is the dedication dances at Yasaka Shrine or Kitano Tenmangu for Setsubun, like Masayo (満彩代) of Kanoya (叶家) in Gion Higashi (below). The second is the annual plum blossom festival Baikasai (梅花祭) hosted by the maiko and geiko of Kamishichiken at Kitano Tenmangu on February 25th. It’s a very large event where guests are served tea outdoors so that they can admire the hundreds of plum trees that the shrine is famous for. Maiko, like Ichikoma (市こま) of Ichi (市) in Kamishichiken (above), tend to be the ones who present the tea to the customers as the geiko (and sometimes senior maiko) are the ones who prepare the tea since they have the most experience. By serving the tea this allows for the junior maiko to work on their manners in front of customers and gives them a chance to interact with many people from different backgrounds.

Image courtesy of Melissa Chase. Like the majority of other kanzashi, plum blossoms also follow the rules of seniority, with juniors wearing small blossoms and shidare, new seniors or seniors with middle to high seniority wearing three blossoms, and the most senior wearing a single large bloom. While plum blossom kanzashi are very beautiful and generally loved by all, they are sadly worn for the least amount of time since February is the shortest month of the year. To make up for this these kanzashi make a bold yet elegant statement, especially the large ones worn by senior maiko like Kanako (叶子) of Kawahisa (川久) in Miyagawa Cho (below).

Image courtesy of Kawahisa Okiya and Ochaya.

Kanzashi of The Month: Forgotten Motifs

On The Eleventh Day Of Fun I present... something unique! Over the past 9 months I’ve featured a great amount of kanzashi, but there have been some that have gone under the radar as they’re either very rare or there were limited pictures available. So, instead of each getting their own feature they’ll be displayed here! As always, all kanzashi are courtesy of Kazurasei.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Tsuyu Shiba (露柴) - Dewy Grass Months: June, July, and August This is a very elegant design, but sadly remains quite rare. It features grass in the shape of crescent moons accented by dew made of rhinestones. The grass is made in an almost identical way to the pampas grass kanzashi that I featured earlier. The thin silk used is incredibly iridescent and reflects like real water. Its simplistic design lends well to senior maiko, who are sometimes spotted either wearing this set as is or with the small addition of another motif, like carnations. Here you can see Mameryū (まめ柳) of Tama (多麻) in Gion Kobu wearing the full set in July below:

 Image courtesy of Peter MacIntosh.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Gekka Bijin (月下美人) - Queen of The Night Months: July and August This is an extremely unique motif and one that’s only recently become popular with senior maiko. The Queen of The Night, known as Beauty Under The Moon in Japanese, is a type of cactus flower that blooms only at night. It resembles a water lily but can be differentiated by its pointed petals. The flowers are known for their enchanting fragrance too, which makes it a perfect metaphor for maiko and geiko! You can see how ethereal it looks under the moonlight, just like with Toshiemi (とし恵美) of Komaya (駒屋) in Miyagawa Cho below:

Image courtesy of Toshimana.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Tsubaki (椿) - Camellia Months: February and March What look at the creations of Kazurasei would be complete without its signature symbol!? Kazurasei is known for its camellia oil and many of their products have a picture of a camellia on it. Camellias are an interesting flower as they’re one of the first plants to bloom during the new year, often when there’s still snow on the ground. However, it’s not usually considered a herald of spring like plum blossoms are, but rather a symbol of endurance during the winter; this is because camellia blossoms don’t actually have a scent and thus do not attract animals and insects from afar. The oil that can be harvested from the plant does produce a pleasant smell though. Maiko often add camellia oil to their hair as it gives it a nice sheen and the scent hides the fact that their hair is only washed and set once each week. Since maiko are synonymous with this product it’s no surprise that Mamehana (豆はな) of Ninben (亻) in Gion Kobu below actually did some promotional work for Kazurasei while wearing camellia kanzashi ^^!

Image courtesy of Little Valley Jewels.

Kanzashi of The Month: January - 2019′s Design

On The Ninth Day Of Fun I present... something a bit different? Last year I covered the meaning and history behind the New Year’s kanzashi that are prominent features in three of the five kagai. So this year, we’ll be looking specifically at the design for 2019 and the meaning behind it. As always, all kanzashi are from Kazurasei. 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Matsu (松) - Pine Ezogiku (蝦夷菊) - Chinese Asters I am going to completely admit that I find 2019′s design to be a bit lacklustre compared to recent years. It’s very, very traditional, which isn’t a bad thing, but there have been such unique additions, like 2018′s bases for the plum blossoms, the pearl centers for the ezogiku in 2017, the adorable cranes for 2016, and I could go on. The gold wire that the pine sits on, along with the addition of small pieces of mizuhiki on each pine “petal” and the metallic thread used to wrap the pine needles, does make it very shiny though. The other issue that I have is that the actual design doesn’t have pine needles, but is rather just large clumps of pine. It also looks very similar to the 2012, which is identical to the one seen above but with yellow centers of the ezogiku. You could also make a case for the colors of the pine being slightly different as the senior pine in 2012 were green and 2019′s are orange and pink, but the junior versions for both years are still red and green. For comparison’s sake, here’s the 2012 version:

Image courtesy of Risha Soul. And here’s 2019:

Image courtesy of Tetsuto JP. However, I digress as the symbols were almost certainly chosen for their auspicious nature and hope for the coming year. Back in 2012 Japan was going through some rough financial times, so hoping for strength, which is what pine symbolizes, makes perfect sense. In 2019 we’ll see the abdication of the emperor and a new era for the first time in 31 years, so pine, also being a symbol of masculinity, makes a great deal of sense here too. Pine is emphasized so much that it’s even appearing with the rice, dove, and plum blossom maezashi that all maiko and geiko wear, as seen below.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Since 2019 is also The Year of The Pig/Boar in the traditional Asian zodiac the pine makes a great deal of sense here too. In Japanese this year is actually called “The Year of The Boar” as they do not use the term “pig” since pigs are not native to Japan, but they sure do have plenty of wild boar! Not only are wild boars traditionally found in forests, but 2019 is the year of the Earth/Wood Boar. In the traditional Asian zodiac all signs correspond with one of five elements: water, fire, air, earth, and metal. However, you’ll sometimes see people translate earth as “wood” or metal as “earth” and things can get confusing really quickly. The symbol for earth during this time is “土,” which is the same in Japanese as it means “dirt,” but since that can get confusing the “earth” is sometimes swapped for “wood.” What’s more confusing is that the kanji for tree “木” looks like an upside down version of “土.” So, a woody motif for a woody year along with a woodland creature actually makes the symbolism pretty on point in the end ^^ 

Kanzashi of The Month: December - Maneki and Mochibana

On The Second Day Of Fun I present... the monthly kanzashi feature! I was hoping that Kazurasei would upload a new image for 2018, but they haven’t yet and the month is almost over, so we’ll have to make due! You may have noticed that this is the only title to use the Japanese terms instead of the English ones; this is because both maneki and mochibana do not exist in the West, and adding their full names would make the title extremely long ^^; As always, all kanzashi are from Kazurasei.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Maneki (招き) - Kabuki Sign Boards Mochibana (餅花) - Pounded Rice Cakes For the final month of the year the karyukai celebrates what is actually the beginning of the kabuki year! During the first week of December the maiko and geiko of each kagai visit the Minamiza Theatre and watch the inaugural performances. Afterwards, all of the maiko will go backstage and ask their favorite actors to sign the maneki on their kanzashi. To explain what a maneki is, let’s look at an image: 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. The plates proudly display the names of the actors who are active at that location. The larger the board, the more important/senior the actor. Maneki are a part of a maiko’s kanzashi due to the close bond that the karyukai shares with kabuki; both were part of the same entertainment districts during the Edo Period and many still share the same art teachers. The actors sign the kanzashi in black if they usually act as male characters on stage while others will sign the kanzashi in red if they usually act as female characters. The ones who take on the roles of female characters are known as Onnagata (女形), which means “The Form of a Woman,” and are considered some of the best in their field for convincingly portraying women while on stage, even though they’re biologically male. 

Image courtesy of Kyoto Foodie. Mochibana, the other main motif, is a bit different. In areas where there’s a great deal of snow and long winters, like up in Hokkaido, people would decorate branches with small rice balls in pink and white to bring some color to the otherwise dull winter. Mochibana literally means “Pounded Rice Cake Flowers,” where pink ones are meant to represent peach blossoms while the white ones are supposed to be orange blossoms. The bare branches of trees, usually willow for their graceful weeping shape, would be decorated around New Year’s and would be taken down after Girl’s Day on March 3rd. The colors of the mochibana are chosen deliberately as peach and orange blossoms are popular motifs for Girl’s Day celebrations.

Image courtesy of Onihide-san. Going back to the maiko themselves, the overall themes and colors change drastically depending on their seniority. For senior maiko, like Ayano (彩乃) of Fukushima (福嶋) in Gion Kobu above, her maneki and mochibana are flanked by pine and bamboo leaves on a green trellis. The gold and green are simple and speak of her high level of maturity. The only part that breaks the mould are Tanzaku (短冊), which are paper wish strips that are often tied to decorative tree branches, like the mochibana ones and the bamboo ones for Tanabata. These papers act almost like bira to catch the eye of an onlooker. 

Image courtesy of Onihide-san. In comparison, the junior maiko’s kanzashi is a burst of color and activity, as seen above on Fumino (章乃) of Fukushima (福嶋) in Gion Kobu! The maneki almost seem lost among the red and green branches of the mochibana and the abundance of playful motifs that are meant to bring good luck. Although it may take some concentration, the motifs on the junior maiko’s kanzashi are as follows: Fuku Warai (福笑い) - A Japanese “Pin The Tail on The Donkey,” but is done with faces instead of a donkey’s rear. Hagoita (羽子板) - Battledores traditionally used for playing at New Year’s that’s similar to badminton. They always feature plum blossoms.  Hamaya (破魔矢) - Demon dispelling arrows that keep bad luck away. Koban (小判) - An old style of gold coin to bring financial success. Maneki Neko (招き猫) - “Lucky Cat” or “Beckoning Cat” that is meant to invite fortune. Osu Ushi No Me (雄牛の目) - A bull’s eye, likely added as a way to remember what one’s goals are and to shoot for them.  Saikoro (骰子) - Dice, which represent luck. Tai (鯛) - Sea bream, a lucky fish eaten during auspicious occasions and celebrations to wish for strength and success.   Tanzaku (短冊) - Papers with wishes for the future on them. With so many motifs meant to bring the wearer good luck it’s no wonder that they’re worn at the end of the year as they’re not meant to bring immediate success, but rather success in the coming year. You can’t rush good things ^^ 

Modern Maezashi Motifs

Also known as, You TOO Can Wear What Maiko Do! This was suggested by a reader not too long ago, and I really liked the idea as being a jewellery dealer has allowed me to be able to search for items that most people don’t know where to look for. Not only will I be showing you the pieces in detail, but I’ll also show where you can purchase them for yourselves! To begin with, the majority of maezashi worn by maiko are actually brooches that are worn as hair ornaments with the aid of a tool called a “Kanzashi Converter.” It looks like this:

The image, along with said item, can be found on Rakuten from seller Shugale at the low price of 174 yen (approximately $1.54 USD)! You can also buy it from the same seller in silver for the same price here. If you’d rather use an English based website then Chirimen Bunny on Etsy sells them for $3.50 USD. This may seem a bit confusing that maiko are using brooches instead of actual kanzashi, but the trend is due to two major factors: taste and price. There are far more brooches available than kanzashi, so customizing one’s look is easier with a piece that can be used in multiple ways rather than one with a single usage. However, price is easily the biggest factor though, as these brooches can be purchased for relatively little money. So, even a maiko with minimal spending money can pick up a cute new brooch to use as a maezashi at any time! With that said, let’s take a look at a few stand out pieces ^^

The Lion

Worn By: Yuriha (ゆり葉) of Tama (多麻) in Gion Kobu Motif: Lion Jumping Through a Flaming Hoop Brand: Palnart Poc Material: Brass and Enamel Price: ¥ 3,240 / $28.72 USD Buy It Here  Image of Yuriha courtesy of Ktellusastory. Image of the lion brooch courtesy of Own P. This one is among the most expensive as it’s made by a Japanese designer in Japan, which is very rare nowadays! The vast majority of brooches have been made in China for almost two decades now, so the price reflects its Japanese origins. I personally don’t know much about Palnart Poc, but they have some very cute and interesting pieces! This piece features a gold colored lion created in brass jumping through fire that’s been colored with enamel. Due to its Japanese origins I could only find it being sold on Rakuten, but all sellers across the platform were selling it for the same price. You can also buy a matching ring and earrings too! Lions are powerful animals, but this brooch makes them seem less deadly as it’s meant to mimic a circus lion jumping through a ringmaster’s hoop at a playful circus. In most countries animals are slowly being banned from circuses, especially large and exotic ones, but lions are still legal to be owned by them in Japan, albeit not without some controversy. However, I don’t think that the designer had this in mind when creating this set and instead opted for a beloved past time of Japanese children everywhere of going to see a circus with their family.        

The Peacock

Worn By: Ichiyū (市結) of Katsumi (勝見) in Pontocho Motif: Peacock Brand: Unknown/None Material: Silver Metal, Abalone Shell, and Rhinestones Price: $4.29 USD Buy It Here Image of Ichiyū courtesy of Kuumill. Image of the peacock brooch courtesy of Ali Market. Remember how I spoke above about mass produced pieces from China? Well, this is definitely one of them. I had to go on Ebay to find the exact one as trends from China change so quickly and this piece is already a few years old. With that said, it’s just a cute little brooch in the shape of a stylized peacock. The feathers are abalone shell pieces that give the piece both color and shine. You may have noticed that Ichiyū’s is slightly different, and it is, but it doesn’t seem to be for negative reasons. On Ichiyū’s one of the abalone shell pieces has been swapped out with a mother of pearl piece, and this was either due to a manufacturing defect or a fix not long after she got it. Peafowl are the beloved animals of the goddess Kannon, who is the Bodhisattva of mercy and compassion, as their unique skill of being able to attack and eat snakes makes them valuable stewards. Their plumage is also unrivaled and glamorous, just like the maiko themselves.  

The Owl

Worn By: Fukune (ふく音) of Kawayoshi (河よ志) in Miyagawa Cho Motif: Owl Brand: Unknown/None Material: Gold Plated Metal and Rhinestones Price: $1.59 USD Buy It Here Image of Fukune courtesy of Yasukosora. Image of owl brooch courtesy of Rhao. This is another mass produced Chinese piece and is still actively being made, hence why the price is so extremely low! This one features two owls, likely a parent and child, on a branch with flowers. Rhinestones are added both to the owls and the flowers to make the piece really pop. The centers of the owls use a special coated stone called “moon glow” that makes it very reflective, almost like a star sapphire. Oddly enough this piece is a knock off of a piece made by the famous designer Napier. Most Chinese produced brooches are actually made with the moulds used for the original brooches that are purchased from the original companies, sometimes with small details changed so as not to be exact replicas. So, while technically this isn’t trying to duplicate the original exactly it’s still close enough to be considered a knockoff as it is not an original design. In this case, the small cluster of rhinestones on the left side that form a flower were just originally a couple of rhinestones that had no distinct shape, which is a very minor change. For those of you who are interested in seeing the original product that it was based on you can check it out here. Owls are symbols of wisdom, so it only makes sense for a maiko to want to gain a bit of that wisdom for themselves ^^ 

The Flower

Worn By: Fukutama (ふく珠) of Shigemori (しげ森) in Miyagawa Cho Motif: Flower Brand: Unknown/None Material: Rhodium Plated Metal and Rhinestones Price: $4.00 USD Buy It Here Image of Fukutama courtesy of My Kyoto Photo (Patosan) Image of Flower Brooch courtesy of LorrieChristine I admit, I had a hard time describing what shape this piece was, but my best guess is a flower with six petals. It probably took me the longest out of all of these examples to find for sale as it’s so abstract and can be described in so many ways. But, besides that, it’s very striking and it’s super shiny, so I can see why a maiko would love it! That it features only a single colored rhinestone lends well to Fukutama’s seniority, so it really is a perfect fit for a senior maiko who’s close to the end of her apprenticeship. 

Bonus: The Swan

Worn by: Satsuki (紗月) of Tsurui (つる居) in Gion Kobu Motif: Swan Brand: Unknown/None Material: Silver Metal with Rhinestones and Faux Pearls Image of Satsuki courtesy of Yasu. Image of Swan Brooch is from a now deactivated Ebay account. This one you can’t go out and buy since the design hasn’t been produced in a while, but it just goes to show that maiko love cute brooches. So, if you can’t go out and buy this then why did I add it to this list? Well, I gifted that exact brooch to Satsuki back in 2013, and she wore it for quite a while! Through a mutual friend she had signed some photographs for a charity auction and this was one of the gifts that I gave her as a thanks. I heard that she liked pink, so I made sure to find her a gift that included it ^^

Kanzashi of The Month: October - Chrysanthemums

I don’t like cold weather, but October features one of my favorite flowers, so it gets a pass in my book (also, Halloween candy). This is going to be the most image heavy feature yet as Kazurasei has provided ample examples over the past year!

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Kiku (菊) - Chrysanthemum What isn’t there to love about such a beautiful and versatile flower!? Whether wild or cultivated, the chrysanthemum can vary in size from that of a nickel all the way to ones that are larger than your hand! Chrysanthemums are actually part a mega family of plants, which include many different types of chrysanthemums, dahlias, asters, daisies, dandelions, marigolds, echinacea (cone flowers), zinnias, and sunflowers. This family, Asteraceae, is the second largest flower family in the world, dwarfed only by the orchids. With that said, what makes a chrysanthemum different from its other family members? A chrysanthemum is a flower native to Asia and parts of northern Europe whose petals tend to be positioned in rows and do not overlap while in the row. Common chrysanthemums are known for their thin, pointed petals and multitude of colors. Fancy Chrysanthemums, also known as Show Chrysanthemums, have been cultivated in China since at least 1,500 BCE.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Each year the Chrysanthemum Festival (Kiku Matsuri - 菊祭) is held on the ninth day of the ninth month, so it can be held on the Gregorian calendar date of September 9th, but is most often celebrated on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, which places it between October and November when the chrysanthemums are actually in bloom. Chrysanthemum shows are popular both within Japan and outside of it, and it’s likely that there’s a show near you each autumn! According to the National Chrysanthemum Society of America, there are thirteen recognized categories of fancy chrysanthemums, each with their own unique characteristics and shapes.  

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. In Japan, the chrysanthemum holds a special status as one of two official flowers, the other being cherry blossoms. However, its prestige has been established for a much longer time, as far back as 650 CE or possibly earlier, as the symbol of the elites. The emperor would give gifts of these special flowers as honored treasures, and soon the elites strove to grow the biggest, brightest, and most unique blooms. Eventually the emperor would officially adopt the sixteen petal chrysanthemum as his personal kamon in the 12th century. It is said that the sixteen petal chrysanthemum resembles the rays of the sun, which is fitting as the emperor is a descendant of the sun goddess Amaterasu. Even today, only the emperor can use the sixteen petal chrysanthemum as his kamon. Other members of the royal family, whether past or present, were given variations of the chrysanthemum to use as their kamon.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. When it comes to kanzashi, chrysanthemums can be equally varied in its design and structure. The traditional chrysanthemum petal shape is thin and pointed and is folded in the same way as many leaves. Small chrysanthemums usually contain between eight and ten petals each and are often clustered together. Medium sized chrysanthemums, typically found in groups of three, contain around 100 petals each. The large, single chrysanthemums that are most often worn by senior maiko can contain a whopping 250 petals or more! The spider chrysanthemums, known as Rangiku (乱菊) (below), are made with rounded petals that are twisted with techniques that require a great amount of skill. Since the petals are often thicker there aren’t as many needed for a kanzashi. Medium sized rangiku, like the one below, have an average of fifty petals while the large, single rangiku contain approximately 125.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Chrysanthemums have some of the most varied rules when it comes to all kanzashi. Both junior and senior maiko can wear the medium sized ones in groups of three, like Satsuki (紗月) of Tsurui (つる居) in Gion Kobu (below). She was still a junior maiko when this was taken, but she looked quite mature, so I can see why her okasan allowed her to use it.

Image courtesy of GMK48. Small chrysanthemums worn in bunches are also popular and can be worn by the most junior and the most senior maiko. Tsuruha (つる葉) of Tama (多麻) in Gion Kobu (below) was a senior maiko in her last year of apprenticeship when she wore this semi-shidare piece. Its bright colors and unique design make it just as suitable for a junior as it does a senior!

Image courtesy of a friend who wishes to remain anonymous. Round petal chrysanthemums that are not rangiku tend to be the most rare as they resemble plum blossoms to some extent and can be confused for them if you don’t take a second to get a good look. The piece that Umehisa (梅比沙) of Umeno (梅乃) in Kamishichiken (below) is wearing combines the rounded petal chrysanthemums with the pointed petal variety, which seems almost reminiscent of summer clematis. What distinguishes them from clematis are their petal counts: both the round and pointed chrysanthemums have seven petals, with their eighth slot being taken up by a pointed leaf. Plum blossoms feature only five petals while clematis have six.

Image courtesy of a friend who wishes to remain anonymous. I actually own the katsuyama piece of the set above, which you can see in a bit more detail here:

Image courtesy of myself. Although the other pieces are iconic, none is more so than the single, large chrysanthemum kanzashi. Once again, it can be worn by the most junior or the most senior of maiko, but the juniors will have the addition of a tassel in lieu of shidare. Very senior maiko, like Kanako (叶子) of Kawahisa (川久) in Miyagawa Cho (below) often wear this massive bloom with a kushi instead of a katsuyama piece so that the chrysanthemum will be the focal point of the entire outfit.

Image courtesy of Balbo42. Finally, we can see the elegance that is the rangiku. They follow the same rules as the other sizes of chrysanthemums, so senior maiko Mameryū (まめ柳) of Tama (多麻) (below) looks natural with her cluster of three rangiku. In order to show off her senior status a bit more she is wearing a kushi instead of katsuyama; this is an excellent idea as it highlights her lovely kanzashi that has been used by many maiko in her okiya and her seniority as she will become a geiko next month ^^

Image courtesy of Exclusive Kyoto.

What’s That Thing? Part 18

I’m back from a weekend vacation, so it’s time for a feature! There’s many questions that I’ve been saving for features and it’s time to whittle away at that very long list ^^; @karyukai-is-life asked: “Umehina's kanzashi for August was different from most! Could you tell us a bit about it?” Yes! I also really like the design, so let’s take an in-depth look!

Image courtesy of Chitaka45. The most interesting part is easily the Fireworks (花火 - Hanabi) that we can see in red, yellow, and pink. They’re very sparkly as each of the fourteen “bursts” feature a very reflective and shiny aurora borealis coated rhinestone! Between the bursts we can see green Grass (柴 - Shiba) with Dew (露 - Tsuyu) in the form of MORE sparkly rhinestones! These motifs sit on a bed of pink and blue Summer Asters (都忘れ - Miyako Wasure). Overall it’s just really, really sparkly and shines just like real fireworks!  However, it must be noted that Umehina was not the first Umeno maiko to wear this specific kanzashi. Umechie wore this kanzashi for the first time in 2016 ^^

Image courtesy of Kyoto Insider.

Kanzashi of The Month: September - Bell Flowers and Bush Clover

And here I thought that the titles couldn’t get longer after the last one, but it appears I was mistaken! This is another combination entry as both examples display both motifs. As usual, all kanzashi are from Kazurasei.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Kikyō (桔梗) - Bell Flowers Hagi (萩) - Bush Clover Although September is still quite hot for the majority of Japan, the full moon is considered the border between summer and autumn, with this time represented by a group of plants collectively known as “The Seven Friends of Autumn” (Aki No Nanakusa - 秋の七草). Just like Shōchikubai (Pine, Bamboo, and Plum) is also known as “The Three Friends of Winter” and ushers in the spring, these seven usher in the opposite. Among their ranks include: Kuzu (葛) - Arrowroot Fujibakama (藤袴) - Thoroughwort Ominaeshi (女郎花) - Patrina Nadeshiko (撫子) - Carnations Obana/Susuki (尾花/薄) - Pampas Grass Kikyō (桔梗) - Bell Flower Hagi (萩) - Bush Clover What may seem confusing at first is that they’re all valid symbols of summer in their own right! You can often see all seven of those motifs on summer kimono and obi, but just like the previous motifs some fit better into specific months than others (we’ve already seen Pampas Grass in August and Carnations in June). Bell flowers, like most of their summer compatriots, can be seen in either purple, pink, or white on kanzashi. The most popular color for bell flowers is overwhelmingly purple, as the sight of a flower blooming in such a cool color is seen as a signal of autumn’s cooling weather that will drive away the oppressive summer heat! Purple just also happens to be the most popular color for the plant itself if you went out to purchase one for yourself.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Bush clover, on the other hand, isn’t a bold plant, so it’s often paired with bell flowers to celebrate the end of summer. As can be surmised from its name, bush clover grows wild like a bush and is usually found in shades of pink, white, or somewhere in between. Oddly enough, the bush clover actually isn’t a member of the clover family, but rather the pea bush family! It’s called a clover because its leaves are often clustered in groups of three and are rounded like that of a wild clover. You may also remember the song Hagi Kikyō (萩桔梗 - Bush Clover and Bell Flowers) that was covered in a previous spotlight. Since bell flowers and bush clovers are representative of the changing of seasons we can better understand the often cryptic words and appreciate the song to a much wider extent ^^

Image courtesy of Onihide. When it comes to maiko, bell flowers tend to follow the rules of juniors and seniors; that is, juniors wear clusters of small blooms while seniors wear large blooms in groups of three or just one singular bloom, like with Ayano (彩乃) of Fukushima (福嶋) in Gion Kobu above. Junior maiko can wear a single bell flower if a tassel is attached to show their lower status and this combination can be seen a few times each year. Bush clover, on the other hand, is mostly used as an accent for senior maiko or a full motif for junior maiko. Bush clover tends to look best on junior maiko as the blooms of the bush clover tend to have an overall wispy effect, so they already look like the shidare that the most junior maiko often wear, like Katsue (佳つ江) of Odamoto (小田本) in Gion Kobu below. In many cases people often mistake shidare bush clover for May’s wisteria as the colors and style are very similar! However, Wisteria will either present as just one long shidare piece or will have arching blooms at the top of the kanzashi while the shidare hanging underneath the bush clover will have the small, clover-like leaves in a mass at the top and no arching blossoms.

Image courtesy of Masahiro.

Kanzashi of The Month: July/August/September - Dragonflies

A multi-month motif and one that isn’t a flower!? You bet! It’s time to delve into one of the most unique kanzashi motifs of them all, direct from Kazurasei.

Image courtesy of Kazurasei.

Tonbo (蜻蛉) - Dragonflies

A quintessential summer motif if there ever was one, dragonflies are a staple of summer anywhere in Japan. The first sightings take place around Children’s Day on May 5th and they continue to buzz around until late October. For the most part dragonflies die after they mate, but their lives up until that point are fascinating. Dragonfly eggs are deposited into a water source directly from the mating parents, who will then usually end up as a snack for a nearby bird or small mammal. From there, the eggs hatch into small nymphs that can’t breathe oxygen and will spend their remaining time in this stage completely underwater. For a flying insect this may be odd, but its nymph stage is particularly contrasting compared to its adult form.

While living and growing as a nymph the young soon-to-be dragonflies are actually vicious carnivores who are pretty high up on the aquatic food chain; they’ll eat anything they can get their hands on, including tadpoles, small fish, and other insects, such as their own siblings! This stage can last anywhere from a few months to a few years, which is the longest stage of their life. Once they’ve grown enough and eaten their fill they’ll climb out of the water onto a reed or blade of grass and undergo their final transformation into an adult. This is usually done at night to avoid predators and only takes a few hours to complete. From there, the newly minted adult dragonfly continues the life cycle of finding a mate and laying eggs of their own. 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei.

After finally becoming adults, dragonflies tend to stay close to environments that mimic the one they grew up in; that is, bodies of water surrounded by grass. They use the water as both a place to show off their mating moves and where they will eventually mate. The grass gives them safe places to live and rest between flights. This stage of their lives in the shortest, and can last from a few weeks to a few months. Their fleeting beauty is reminiscent of spring’s cherry blossoms in that it reminds us of our mortality.

 Dragonflies come in many shapes and sizes, which can range from as small as one inch (2.5cm) all the way up to six inches (15.25cm). They are sometimes confused with their closely related cousin, the damselfly as their looks are nearly identical. To tell them apart you simply need to look at their wings: damselflies can fold their wings together like butterflies whereas dragonflies can only fan their wings out to the sides of their bodies, just like moths.

Image courtesy of Self Unemployed.

As a very versatile kanzashi motif the ways in which the dragonflies are constructed can be versatile as well. They can be constructed like the examples above with metallic fabric over wire with and threaded bodies or even with tsumami techniques. Dragonflies can be worn by maiko of all ranks, with the most junior wearing clusters of small insects while seniors can wear them in groups of three, like the first example, or as a single lone unit. Most commonly, dragonflies are mounted on shining grass, with swirls of water being a common addition. Like other summer motifs, such as August’s susuki, dragonflies are known for their brilliant shine! You can’t help but be enchanted by Fukumi (ふく美) of Horiyae (堀八重) in Miyagawa Cho as her playful dragonflies are as animated as her smile ^^

Kanzashi of The Month: August - Pampas Grass

I’ve been waiting for Kazurasei to finally upload an image with just this motif, and they finally did a few days ago! It’ll become clear soon as to why I wanted to show this motif alone. As always, all kanzashi are from Kazurasei. 

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Susuki (薄) - Pampas Grass One of the only summer motifs that stays strictly within the month it represents, pampas grass is a unique and stand out motif! For starters, it’s one of the only monthly kanzashi motifs that does not depict any flowers. Yes, it has a very shiny center that is filled with rhinestones, but those are there for a separate reason: pampas grass has fluffy, silvery-pink tufts in real life and looks absolutely dazzling when it catches the sun’s rays, especially when covered in dew. The rhinestones are present to show that concentrated reflection. Like the center, the outside “petals” are also made from very reflective and iridescent fabric, with more traditional designs featuring silver paper! As is apparent by this point, it does not feature the usual tsumami (pinched silk) techniques that non-summer motifs often do and cannot be found in alternate tsumami form like some of the others have.  

Image courtesy of Kazurasei. Being a grass, it can also grow pretty much anywhere, with entire fields being filled with the ethereal plant. You can buy and grow your own from almost any nursery nearby as they’re quite hardy and easy to take care of (side note: the Japanese pampas grass is actually considered a dangerous invasive species in California, so please make sure that you take proper care of the plant and do not toss it into the wild). The second image shows a bit more of where the pampas grass can grow and why its known for its sparkle. As you may have surmised from the inclusion of dew and now dragonflies (hint: the next motif), pampas grass can be found growing wild along the shores of rivers and ponds. Their silvery tips reflect the water and provide a stunning display with the dragonflies that mate during this time who are as iridescent as the grass, which makes the combination seems almost magical!   

Image courtesy of Maiko Club/Geisha Japan. When being worn the kanzashi seems completely different as its blue shine brings to mind cool rivers and its spread “petals” like those of fireworks. Like with Ryōka (涼香) of Sakaemasa (栄政) in Gion Higashi (above), you can’t help but stop and stare when a maiko wears this kanzashi! Whether in one large burst or smaller bursts (like the example with the dragonflies) it’s extremely popular with maiko of all ranks for its sparkle and shine!