One last Malta-related post to bore you all before I finally move on to other topics:
A favorite pastime of mine when I have the chance to travel is to search out small museums, ones that are "off the beaten path" and not thronged by tourists at every hour of the day. This has had some wonderful benefits--I'll never forget, for example, perusing the wax anatomical models at the Museo "La Specola" in Florence, or the Arabic decorative tiles at the Leighton House in London. In that tradition, I wanted to let you know that if you ever have the chance to visit Malta, do not miss the Malta Postal Museum.
I freely admit that I was unsure whether it would be worth the time: "A museum about the history of postage and the postal service? In a country with a population of half a million? Why bother?" I'm so glad I overcame my hesitations. The museum's stamp collection traces the entire modern history of the Maltese archipelago, from the very first halfpenny stamps issued early in Queen Victoria's reign to celebrations of the papal visits in the 2000s, and is fascinating in itself; but what really makes the museum worthwhile is its illustrated tour of how "the mail has gone through" under different occupiers (the Knights of St. John, the French, the British) and under the most trying of circumstances (naval blockade, plague outbreak, wartime censorship). Short, well-produced films help illuminate the many letters in the collection and don't shy away from some of the more unpalatable aspects of Maltese history, such as the British haste in June 1940 to intern anyone suspected of pro-Italian sympathies, a policy that (as so often in wartime) ran roughshod over civil liberties. More than just a history of the post, it's a unique window on the broader history of Malta, reminding us that even something as humdrum as delivering the mail on time can be an essential part of social infrastructure.
Anyway, I'll stop rambling now. But seriously, if you ever find yourself in Valletta, the Malta Postal Museum should definitely be on your itinerary.