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Xerxes Said

@forgottenancients-blog / forgottenancients-blog.tumblr.com

The oft forgotten corners of ancient history, from the beginning of time to the 10th century AD.
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Caftan, 8th–10th century Caucasus Mountain regions Silk, linen, and fur

"The original linen coat (caftan), preserved in part from the neck to the bottom of the hem, is made of finely woven linen. A decorative strip of large-patterned silk is sewn along the exterior and interior edges of the caftan. A minute fragment of lambskin preserved as the caftan's interior attests to its fur lining. The woven patterns on the silk borders of the caftan include motifs such as the rosettes and stylized animal patterns enclosed within beaded roundels, which were widespread in Iranian and Central Asian textiles of the sixth to ninth century. The colors used in the textile include a now-faded dark blue, yellow, red, and white on a dark brown ground. The decorated silk fabrics are a compound twill weave (samit in modern classification) and the body of the garment is plain-weave linen. Two slits running up the back of the caftan make it particularly suitable as a riding costume."

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Caftan

9th century

Silk L 140 cm

Covered with splendid Persian silk, this caftan was probably intended for a chief. Just how valuable such silk was is shown by the fact that the king of Iran was depicted in Sassanian reliefs wearing just such a garment. Here we see a fabulous monster (a senmurv) in a medallion set against an emerald-green background. The caftan is made up of pieces of Soghdian, Byzantine and Chinese textiles.

The cut of the caftan is typical of male garments found in the burial site known as Moshchevaya Balka (in the Northern Caucasus): cut on the straight with a closely fitting upper part and a wide lower part, without a fastening but with side slits made for greater convenience on horseback. Very long fasteners would have been attached to the braid trimmings. The revers are trimmed with fur, and the whole caftan was lined with squirrel fur.

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