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A Lady on Her Day Bed (1743)
François Boucher (French, 1703-1770)
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Portrait of Marie Therese Louise of Savoy, Princesse de Lamballe
- Artist: Jean-Baptiste Charpentier the Elder (French, 1728–1806)
- Date: 18th Century
- Medium: Oil on Canvas
- Location: Unidentified Location
Description
Marie Thérèse Louise of Savoy, Princesse de Lamballe (Italian: Maria Teresa Luisa; 8 September 1749 – 3 September 1792) was a member of the Savoy-Carignano cadet branch of the House of Savoy. She was married at the age of 17 to Louis Alexandre de Bourbon-Penthièvre, Prince de Lamballe, the heir to the greatest fortune in France. After her marriage, which lasted a year, she went to the French royal court and became the confidante of Queen Marie Antoinette. She was murdered in the massacres of September 1792 during the French Revolution.
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Two-piece dress
1750-1775
Amsterdam Museum
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Jean-Baptiste Oudry, Still Life with Musette and Violin, 1725. Toledo Museum of Art (Ohio, USA).
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Yellow Silk Petticoat, Mid 18th Century, British.
Met Museum.
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Cape
last third 18th century
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
“Cloaks in one form or another were popular items of dress in the American colonies from the time of the early settlers. This particular type of cloak, called a “cardinal” because of its color, is made of a closely woven wool cut on the bias and left with a raw edge along the hem. The hooded cape is a variant of the capuchin, or monk’s habit. It is gathered in a circular shape at the back to stand high without crushing the mobcap or coiffure underneath. The vestee is a practical solution for keeping the upper torso warm while leaving the hands free. By the late eighteenth century cardinals could be bought ready-made in England; thus, it is possible that this cape was imported rather than made in the colonies.”
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"Cardinal" Cape, American, last 3rd of 18th century, wool
"The hooded cape is a variant of the capuchin, or monk’s habit. It is gathered in a circular shape at the back to stand high without crushing the mobcap or coiffure underneath."
Source: metmuseum.org
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This ensemble represents a popular style of informal dress for women in the 1760s. Known by the French name ‘pet-en-l’air’, it comprises a short sack worn over a petticoat. The silk is very unusual, bearing three different methods of decoration: weaving, embroidery and paint.
When Beatrix Potter was writing one of her books for children, The Tailor of Gloucester, in 1903, she visited the Museum for inspiration on 18th-century dress. This is one of the garments she was shown. In The Tailor of Gloucester there appears a little mouse wearing this splendid ensemble with a mob cap.
My fun fact of the day: The 'pet-en-l'air' gown is so named because of the way the jacket flares out in the back. As if being lifted by a little wind.
Because 'pet-en-l'air' means fart.
Whee!
Source: collections.vam.ac.uk
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British robe à la française at the Metropolitan Museum of Art - This is dated to the 1740s, but dresses often had cuffs and engage antes. This has only engageantes.
Top 1740s side of British robe à la française (Metropolitan). From their Web site 1600X2000.
Second row 1740s British robe à la française (Metropolitan). From their Web site 1600X2000.
Third row left 1740s Side and sacque of British robe à la française (Metropolitan). From their Web site 1600X2000.
Third row right 1740s Back of British robe à la française (Metropolitan). From their Web site 1600X2000.
Fourth row left 1740s Cuff of British robe à la française (Metropolitan). From their Web site 1552X1950.
Fourth row right 1740s Robings and stomacher of British robe à la française (Metropolitan). From their Web site 1575X1983.
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spitalfields-silk
Title: Ensemble
Date: ca. 1775
Culture: American
Medium: silk
Source: metmuseum.org
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Psyche Revived by Cupid's Kiss
Antonio Canova
1793.
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I don't know if you're ready for this BUT American Duchess and the Bata Shoe Museum just launched a collab collection called In Bloom.
They made 3 styles in several colours using 3 styles from the the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries from their current exhibition "In Bloom: Flowers and Footwear", and are currently in pre-sale, with estimated deliveries between July and August 2023.
Let's take a look:
We start at the 18th century with the Primrose shoes, based on their Dunmore model, accurate for 1770s-1790s they are embroidered on satin and are $179 USD while in pre-sale and later will be $199. The original style is in black and pink silk satin, and OF COURSE that's my favourite variation, but the green ones are a close second.
Images from top: 1780s shoes, Bata Shoe Museum / Primrose shoes, American Duchess.
From the 19th century we have this style called Flora, accurate for the late 19th century (1870s-1900), are $230 USD while in pre-sale and later will bee $250. This embroidered boots with satin ribbon laces are probably my favourite style from the collection. Of course my fave colour is black, which is also the colour of the original piece, but the lavender ones are just *chef kiss*:
Images from top: the original French embroidered boots by Francois Pinet, late 1870s-early 1880s, Bata Shoe Museum. / Flora boots, American Duchess
Finally, the 20th century style is the Daisy, accurate for the 1920s-1940s. A vintage style full of flowers and colour, this T-strap style is perfect to pair with a simple dress from any decade and have a very decent 6.3cm heel, so you can dance all night in these art deco shoes.
1920s shoes, Bata Shoe Museum / Daisy shoes, American Duchess.
The sales from the In Bloom collection will support The Bata Shoe Museum in their study, outreach, and conservation of historic footwear, and we're here for it.
More info:
Which style are you looking for the most?
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Robe à l’Anglaise
1770s
Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris