[FOR SERIOUS SEAFOOD DONE EVERY WHICH WAY. YEARS AGO, PEOPLE ONLY ATE THE REAL THING. AND WHAT BECAME OF THE RING? I ASKED. SO SPANISH-BORN CHEF CéSAR LABRADOR IS KNOCKIN' 'EM DEAD WITH SPECIALTIES FROM EVERYWHERE, LIKE HIS REAL-DEAL LOUISIANA GUMBO.]