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Eringurumi

@eringurumi / eringurumi.tumblr.com

Cute things I've crocheted! Instagram: @erin.gurumi, tag me there!!!
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Anonymous asked:

Hi! I'm trying to use your Dragonair pattern to make one for my friend, but I'm a bit confused on the abbreviations [n-3 sc] and [n-4 sc], and was wondering if you could explain them? /genq

Hi! Ah, wow it's been so long since I wrote this, but I think I know what I meant! I was using "n" as in "the number of stitches per row", and the n-3 means that I am not counting the three stitches that are either dec or incs. So for example, to type out the instruction:

  • 5 rows of 2 dec, [n-3 sc], 1 inc (17, 16, 15, 14, 13 stitches)

More fully, it would be (starting from a row with 18 stitches):

  • 2 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc (to make 17 stitches)
  • 2 dec, 14 sc, 1 inc (to make 16 stitches)
  • 2 dec, 13 sc, 1 inc (to make 15 stitches)
  • 2 dec, 12 sc, 1 inc (to make 14 stitches)
  • 2 dec, 11 sc, 1 inc (to make 13 stitches)

Same would go for the (n-4 sc) row, except for that one because there are three decreases, you now be reducing from 13:

  • 3 dec, 9 sc, 1 inc (to make 11 stitches)
  • 3 dec, 7 sc, 1 inc (to make 9 stitches)
  • 3 dec, 5 sc, 1 inc (to make 7 stitches)
  • 3 dec, 3 sc, 1 inc (to make 5 stitches)

Hope this helps!!?!

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Nonbinary Flower Lion Pattern

This is a fairly simple pattern, and I'm sure it could be adapted to be many kinds of colors (dare i say... a whole PRIDE :D). As always, if you use this pattern, please link back to my page, and tag me here on tumblr or @ erin.gurumi on instagram! I love to see what people make!

Technical stuff:

I used a 3mm hook and these yarns:

  • Red Heart Super Saver in Bright Yellow (body)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Pale Plum, Lavender, Amethyst, and Medium Purple (petals)
  • Loops and Threads Woolike in Rose (tail tuft)

Of course, I don't think matching the colors is necessary, since I think many color combos would be cute! It should be noted though, that the yarn I used for tail is super-fine weight unlike the others that are worsted, so if you want to use a thicker yarn you should probably modify that part!

^ Head

This is a very straight forward amigurumi head! A couple bits of advice: I made the ears a bit taller than I would have otherwise, and set them a bit further back on the head since I wanted the ears to go behind the mane/petals.

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • (5 sc, inc) 6x to make 42 stitches
  • 6 rows of 42 stitches
  • 5 sc, dec) 6c to make 36 stitches
  • (4sc, dec) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (3sc, dec) 6x to make  24 stitches
  • (ADD EYES/STUFFING)
  • (2sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • dec, until closed, finish stuffing and finish off

Ears

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 4 rows of 12
  • flatten, sew to head

^Muzzle:

I made the muzzle out of felt and embroidered the nose/mouth Also, while I worked on the muzzle bit early on, I didn't attach it until near the very end, since I was afraid it would get messed up with all the other sewing I had to do!

^ Petals

Make 8 of these! I would recommend making all 8 at once and then pinning them to the head before sewing - that way if they are a bit too big (which I think I ended up having) you can slightly curve them so that they fit! (If they are too small, either space them out evenly, or if it really looks bad you may need to increase to more stitches)...

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 2 rows of 12
  • flatten, pin, and sew to head

^ Body:

Pretty straight-forward, I made them a bit taller than a usual amigurumi because I wanted them to be sitting like a cat rather than a teddy bear!

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (3sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • 1 row of 24 stiches
  • (2sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 4 rows of 18 stitches
  • (1sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • finish with a long tail, sew onto head

^ Haunch and legs

I think a haunch/leg combo is often cuter than the usual amigurumi "sitting teddy bear" pose, but they are both applicable in different circumstances!

Haunch:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 1 row of 12 stitches
  • stuff lightly as you sew it on

Leg:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • 3 rows of 6
  • flatten, sew under the haunch

^ Arms

First, depending on the shaping of the body and where it was sewn relative to the head, it might take a slightly different number of stitches to get the arms to touch the ground! Here's the number it took for me, but you may need less or more! Secondly, I took a bit of spare yarn and sewed the two "paws" together at the bottom so that they would sit more daintily!

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • 8 rows of 6
  • finish off, sew to the body

^ Tail:

For the length of the tail, I used foundation single crochets. If you don't know how to make these, there are some good tutorials online, and they're a great trick for your crochet bag as I find them more consistent and nicer than starting projects that would normally start as a chain. Or, you're probably fine to just chain out and sc back to the length of tail that you want!

Length of tail:

  • foundation sc 10
  • sew one end to backside

For the tuft at the end of the tail, I definitely winged it, and I used a much thinner yarn than the rest of the project... I think this is what I did but I am honestly not sure of the exact numbers, the idea was to have one end round and the other taper by decreasing slowly. See if this works for you??

  • 4 sc in a magic circle
  • (2sc, inc) x2 to make 6
  • dec to make 5
  • dec to make 4
  • dec to make 3
  • dec to make 2
  • finish off, attach round end to tail

I think they turned out cute! If you have any questions please feel free to ask me! Again, if you make them, tag me here or on instagram @ erin.gurumi - Good luck and happy crocheting! ^_^

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Anonymous asked:

Could I possibly get the Boba Fett pattern from you please. please let me know. Thank you

All my free patterns are here!

While I never wrote up the Boba Fett pattern, I did write up the pattern for the Mandalorian, which was an improvement on the actual shaping for Boba Fett - all it would take is for you to choose different colors... I've seen other people use my pattern to make both Boba and Jango, which I think is awesome!

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Dusa Pattern

I got a request for a crochet pattern for my amigurumi plushie Dusa, so here it is! She is actually pretty straightforward when it comes to the crochet bits, and the hard parts are embroidering the face and shaping the hair! As always, if you use this pattern, please link back to my page, and tag me here on tumblr or @erin.gurumi on instagram! I love to see what people make!

Technical stuff: 

I used a 3mm hook and these yarns:

  • Red Heart Super Saver in Minty (head)
  • Loops and Threads Impeccable in Green Lagoon (hair)
  • Cream (scrap yarn from a stash, similar to Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Red (scrap yarn from a stash, similar to Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Medium Purple

^ Head

As I mentioned, the crochet part is pretty straight forward. The head is just one big sphere, but the part I find the most challenging is doing the embroidery

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • (5 sc, inc) 6x to make 42 stitches
  • (6sc, inc) 6x to make 48 stitches
  •  7 rows of 48 stitches
  • (6 sc, dec) 6x to make 42 stitches
  • (5 sc, dec) 6c to make 36 stitches
  • (4sc, dec) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (3sc, dec) 6x to make  24 stitches 
  • (ADD EYES/STUFFING AND START EMBROIDERY- see below!)
  • (2sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • dec, until closed, finish stuffing and finish off

^ After you are nearly done with the sphere (for me, I like to start when I am at the 30 or 24 stitch row), I used some yarn to embroider her eye liner (it ended up looking a bit too thick, but I was really struggling with making it look even.. I even ended up cheating a bit and using some marker... which I bet would have turned out nicer had I just used that!). Then I also added her nose and mouth - I didn’t have black embroidery thread, so I used yarn and a bit of unraveled yarn... This is probably not recommended, so if you have a better strategy please go for it!! I think this turned out a bit more skeletal than snakelike, but I did my best!

^ Hair Snakes

Making the actual tubes was very straightforward, it was the attaching them to the head which took some thinking! For simplicity’s sake, I made four tubes, one slightly thicker than the other, and all the same length. But, I imagine it’s really easy to make them a bit longer, or maybe add one more to fill in the back of the head!

Make one of:

  • 6sc in a magic circle
  • sc 6x until you have a tube 12 inches (30 cm) long (stuff lightly as you go)

Make three of :

  • 5sc in a magic circle
  • 5sc until you have a tube 12 inches (30 cm) long (no stuffing in these ones, probably could do very light stuffing if you want)
  • * FOR TWO of these I added a metal armature - the stuff I had around is probably not right for making dolls, it looks like 1.2mm aluminum? 

^ Ok, for the first two hair pieces, I used the empty (no metal) 5sc tube and the stuffed 6sc tube. I bent the 5sc tube into a sort of omega shape, looping around the crown of the head, touching points at the forehead, and coming down to make the bangs. The 6sc tube went behind the 5sc loop, coming down towards the cheeks and then curling back to make the front of her cute little bob! Use tons of pins and then sew in place, either with the tail of the yarn or a separate length of thread/yarn!

^ For the second two hair pieces, I used the two 5sc tubes with the metal armature in them. for the back, I sewed it behind the 6sc tube and bent the two ends to look like the snake head and tail that come from behind her head. For the second tube, I bent it into her cute snake on the top, with the bottom curled tightly to fit into the space left by the bangs-tube, and sewed it on there. I used some fabric paint to make little dots for the snake eyes!

^ Medallion, Wraps and Duster

Super simple, these were just chains that I made until they were the right length to wrap - you can mostly improvise... I think I could have made the head wraps longer, you can see they are kinda faked in the back! (Also, I experimented with a slightly larger medallion size, but ended up preferring the smaller one.)

2 small Side Wraps:

  • chain ~6, leaving a tail

2 long Forehead Wraps:

  • chain ~15, leaving a long tail

Medallion:

  • 8 sc in magic circle, use yarn to embroider the Hades insignia

I used a candle to VERY CAREFULLY burn the fuzz off the medallion, so it would be a bit shinier. If you want to do this, please be cautious, mindful of the type of fiber your yarn is made of, and if you are little, have an adult help!

Hot glue the crisscrossed wraps and medallion together, tie all the wraps in their various places, then pull the ends inside a tube or head!

Duster: cut purple yarn into small strands, tie them tightly at one end, then hot glue the duster head to a toothpick... I’m sure there are nicer ways to make one of these, but I liked the look of the yarn!

^ The last thing I did was add her fangs and pink cheeks using a bit of felt and glue - I did this last because I figured the more I handled her with all the sewing, the more they might get messed up.

Here you can see from the back a bit better... I definitely think it could be improved by making the wraps longer and adding an extra hair tube, but overall I am happy with how she turned out!

And that is it!! She is all ready to keep Hades clean and beautiful! If you have questions please feel free to ask me! Again, if you make her, tag me here or instagram @erin.gurumi - Good luck and happy crocheting! ^_^

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The Mandalorian and Child

I am so very excited about the new season of The Mandalorian! I’m thinking back to last year and how it was a simpler time XD and when I designed these two amigurumis to celebrate! If you want to make them as well, the free patterns are here:

And if you do make something and plan to share it online, tag me on instagram @erin.gurumi or here on tumblr! I love seeing them so much it really warms my heart! (and I save theemmmmmmmm :’) ) 

Anyway I hope this season is great and that Mando keeps being a Good Dad.

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The Mandalorian Pattern

Ok! Here is my original crochet amigurumi pattern for the Mandalorian, to go with my other yarn creation, Baby Yoda. As before, if you use this pattern, please link back to my page, and tag me or send me a picture! I will slam that reblog button so fast! Or tag me on insta: @ erin.gurumi

Fun fact: this isn’t my first time around Mandalorian armor... In 2013 (!) I crocheted my friend a Boba Fett amigurumi, which you can see HERE and HERE. I improved the pattern a bit, but I did want to share because there are some in-progress pics which could potentially help, as I’m unfortunately not the best at taking them while I work!

Technical stuff: I used a 3.0 mm crochet hook and these yarns: 

  • Loops and Threads Impeccable in Walnut Tweed (body and cape)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe Latte (belt and bandolier)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Light Grey (armor)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Black (visor)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Carrot (gloves)

I was really happy with the brown color I found for the body (this project was the first time in YEARS I’ve actually opted to increase my stash and it was worth it!), but I think there is plenty of room to experiment with other colors! 

^ Helmet 

I think it was such a bold choice to go with uncolored metal for the Mandalorian’s armor! It’s very hard to simplify and not be evocative of medieval knights or Trojan/Spartan warriors... In this picture, you can see I made a short strip of grey yarn that I thought could be the seam down his helmet, but I decided it just didn’t work for my scale.

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • 2 rows of 36 stitches
  • 1 row of 36 stitches, with 12 black stitches in the front
  • 1 row of 36 stitches with 12 black stitches aligned with previous ones 
  • 4 rows of 36 stitches in grey
  • 1 row of grey, add two increases at the front (38 stitches)
  • 1 row of 38 stitches

I found it easiest to eyeball where I wanted to start the black yarn for the visor, rather than count out how many grey stitches before the color change. At the end, leave a tail but don’t pull the loop through, since changing to the brown yarn for the under helmet part will be a color change.

^ Front visor section and bottom of helmet:

Before closing off the helmet, I made the front separately and sewed it on - I think that’s much easier than trying to do color changes in each row and keeping them nicely lined up, plus, it gives the helmet just a bit of texture that I like to imagine gives the suggestion of some contours. 

  • 6 foundation single crochet in black
  • turn, 6 sc in grey, tie off leaving a tail
  • reattach grey yarn to other side of the black, 6 sc, tie off
  • sew onto helmet

To close off the helmet, change to the brown yarn, and for the first row crochet only in the back loops to make a sharper change between the helmet and the underside (neck?) area. I was not super precise with this part, as all I wanted was for the underside to be mostly flat.

  • (2sc, dec) ~9x in back loops to make ~29 stitches
  • (1sc 1 dec) until closed (stuff part way through)
  • tie off and weave in tail

^ Legs (make 2)

To make the feet look more boot-like, I did all the foot-to-leg decreases on one side, but most of the shape comes from just smooshing it with my hand. Also, I tried to evoke his one larger armor piece by having an extra row of grey on his right leg, but it ended up being a bit subtle. (I know his armor is only on the front of his legs, but I didn’t want to color change that often in such a small space, and the back of the leg is hidden enough by his cape that I don’t mind!)

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 1 row of 18 sc in back loops
  • (decrease 8x), 2 sc to make 10 stitches
  • 6 rows (his left) or 5 rows (his right) of 10 stitches in brown
  • color change to grey in back
  • 3 rows (his left) or 4 rows (his right) of 10 stitches in grey 

For one leg, tie off the tail, for the second leg, make sure that the loop is still available to start the torso section. (I chose which leg to begin the body based on the direction I was crocheting, for me it ended up being HIS right leg). Make sure both legs are stuffed!

^ Torso:

The torso is made by connecting the two legs with a round of crochet. I started with the brown yarn, switched to a lighter brown for the belt section, then for the breast plate unfortunately it’s just a bunch of color changes! My best advice is to keep securing and tying off ends as you go, and stuffing as the body gets taller.

  • On right leg, color change from grey to dark brown, chain 1, slip stitch into left leg, sc around both legs (~20 stitches - if it ends up more, just decrease in back to that)
  • another row of 20 stitches in dark brown, color change to light brown
  • 2 rows of 20 stitches in light brown
  • (1 dec in the back) 7 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (19 stitches)
  • 7 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (19 stitches)
  • (1 dec in back), 6 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (18 stitches)  
  • 6 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (18 stitches)
  • (1 dec in back) 5 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (17 stitches)
  • 5 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (17 stitches)
  • (1 dec in back) 4 grey in front, 12 dark brown in back (16 stitches)
  • (1 dec in back) all dark brown (15 stitches)
  • (1 dec in back) all dark brown (14 stitches)

Finish off and leave a tail to sew the head on.

^ Arms (make two):

I was really happy with my decision to make his little orange mitts - for such a simple costume with very little ability to emote, those gloves really help to draw focus on small gestures!

  • 6 sc in magic circle in orange, color change to brown
  • 1 row of 6 stitches in brown
  • (inc, 2 sc) 2x to make 8 stitches
  • Take one tail of the orange yarn and thread it through to the second brown row, chain 3 and loop it over, securing it back into the brown yarn to make a thumb
  • Change to grey, 4 rows of 8 stitches
  • Change to brown, 5 rows of 8 stitches

Stuff and finish off leaving a tail.

^ Bandolier / Assembling body:

Sorry he looks a little dismembered here... but at this point you’re almost done!

  • For the bandolier, in light brown, chain ~9 (I just measured it across his chest plate from belt to shoulder)
  • Tie off the end and pull both tails through the body, making it snug against his chest, tie off and weave in ends
  • Sew head onto body using the tail from the neck, weave in ends
  • Sew arms on leaving a little room between them and the head (so his pauldrons will fit!), weave in ends

^ Pauldrons

These are simple! Make two!

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • (sc, inc) 3x to make 9 stitches

To attach them, since I liked the look of the stitches sitting freely on the arms, I took the tail from the center and sewed it through the arm, then used just a single stitch on the upper arm and lower arm to hold them in place.

^ Cape:

A lot of the taper on this cape was because I was accidentally dropping stitches at the beginning of each row - I am terrible at crochet when it isn’t in the round! I used half double crochets since I like how they make a slightly looser texture than the body. You can also see here why I try to color change in the back - it doesn’t end up looking super even!

  • foundation single crochet 14, turn
  • 1 row (14 hdc, turn)
  • 9 rows of (1 dec, hdc across, turn)

This got me to approximately 5 stitches across, which looked like a good size to fit between the shoulders. I took the other tail and wove it up the side until both tails were coming from the top of the cape. Tie off the end and sew onto the back of his neck!

I know that was a lot! As always, feel free to ask me questions if you get stuck or something doesn’t make sense, since it’s very possible I made a mistake in my write up! Best of luck crocheting your very own Mandalorian! I hope to see him and his partner in crime Baby Yoda off on many adventures together! 

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Baby Yoda Pattern

Look out friends I know there are so many crochet Baby Yodas out there, and plenty of crochet Baby Yoda patterns, but I’m about to add mine to the mix!  As always, if anyone uses this pattern, please link back to my page, and tag me or send me a picture! I’ll always reblog! Like the rest of you, I’m obsessed with this little sweetie and want to see as many as humanly possible! Or tag me on insta @ erin.gurumi 

From what I can tell, my pattern is one of the smallest designs out there. So, while lacking in detail (I love the tiny hands and facial features people are able to make!), the trade off is, look how SMOL he sits in my hand! Make a dozen of them! Fill a candy dish with them! Put one in the manger of your Nativity scene!

So, the secret to a tiny Yoda is, in part, using tiny yarn. I had this perfect ball of light green yarn in my stash and I have no idea what it is or where I got it (possibly inherited from my grandma?), but you can see it here compared to the Red Heart Super Saver “Buff Fleck” yarn I used for his coat. Also, for his head and ears, I used a 2.5mm crochet hook, while for the body I used a 3mm crochet hook. I think it makes a difference! I’m vaguely curious if this pattern could scale up, maybe with worsted weight for the head and a chunky yarn for the body?

^ Head: 

To make sure his head has a more oval shape, I didn’t do multiple rows of the widest diameter (counter-intuitively, to crochet a sphere, you need multiple rows of the widest diameter, it’s just some property of how the yarn stretches!)  

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches  
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • Add 6 mm eyes between last two row, stuff
  • (1 sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • dec until closed off

^ Ears:

 This is a challenging one since you are working with such few stitches. When making a narrow cone like this, I find it helps to stick my hook into the cup and press it out, to make a more sharp point and better expose the stitches I need to work with.

  • 3 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 1 to make 4 stitches
  • (sc, inc) 2x to make 6 stitches
  • 2 rows of 6 sc
  • flatten ears and sew shut

Sew the ears to each side of the head, making sure they stick out mostly horizontally. Having them too high on the head really changes the silhouette and makes him look less Yoda-like! 

^ Coat:

As you can see, I was actually experimenting on his little potato sack at the same time I was working on the head, because I wanted them to have good proportions to each other. I ultimately went with a slightly larger size than you see here. I know in amigurumi often the head is much much bigger than the body, but here I wanted him to still look a bit like he was swimming in his cute little sack.

  • foundation single crochet 14
  • connect the ends in a loop
  • sc 14
  • sc 13 (decrease once in back)
  • sc 12 (decrease once in back)
  • tie off leaving a long end

^ Collar: 

This is such a crazy important piece of his costume! I wanted him to look cozy and snug but not TOO tightly wrapped up. I didn’t get a good picture of the collar pre-attached, but it really is so simple:

  • chain 14, turn, chain 2
  • double crochet in second chain, then 13 double crochets across

I would recommend experimenting with the number of stitches though, depending on how tight they are - you want it to be able to wrap around the neck of the coat with a little left over to form the overlap. To attach the collar, I carefully sewed it AROUND THE OUTSIDE of the main body of the cloak, NOT directly to the top of the coat, as then you can’t attach his head! 

Here’s the two coat/collar combos I experimented with, which was possible since I attached the collar before I attached the head. I don’t think that’s strictly necessary, as it does make sewing on the head harder because you have to reach down through the collar (making sure the head attached to the coat, not the collar!). But it is doable! (The smaller body had 12 stitches in diameter at the base of the coat, and the smaller collar and half double crochets - I just think it looked more squished and messy.)

As for stuffing his body - I kinda didn’t! there were enough loose ends of the various yarns that basically tucking them in provided enough structure - he doesn’t have any feet (it would be easy to make some though, if you wanted), but he actually stands up great like this! 

I mean, he stands up great, but don’t think that means he doesn’t also love to be picked up and held! This is a better view of the back of his collar, which comes up so cute and snug around his ears!

That’s it for Baby Yoda! Good luck and please feel free to ask if you have any questions! If you make a little guy, pleeese share a pic with me! I can’t get enough of him! And, if there is some interest in the pattern for Best Space Dad the Mandalorian, I may write that up later! They are so cute with each other!!

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Sorcerer Mickey Pattern

I was asked a while ago to type up my Sorcerer Mickey pattern, and I just did not get around to it. So let’s get started! I used a 3mm hook and mostly scrap yarns from my grandma, but I think they are all approximately the weight of Red Heart Super Saver. I also used some off white and black felt. As usual, if anyone uses this pattern, please link back to my page, and tag me or send me a picture! I’d love to see what people make!

^ Felt face

Honestly, this little pattern is super simple for the crochet part, the bits I struggled most with were making the face and hat decals out of felt... Here are several attempts and a paper pattern I made for the face. I pretty clearly stole the shape from the Disney Tsum Tsum aesthetic. I went with felt eyes and nose because dang, I really experimented with safety eyes and it just never looked right.

^ Head and ears

Now, I believe it makes the most sense to do the sphere for the head first, then work on the felt bits so that you see exactly how large they’ll be in relation to the head... I just didn’t have a picture of the head before and even if I did, it’s a featureless black sphere there’s not much to see!

Head:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches  
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • 5 rows of 30 stitches
  • (3 sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • begin to stuff head
  • (sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • decrease until closed, stuffing the rest of the way

Ears:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches  
  • 2 rows of 12 stitches

Flatten and sew the ears across the bottom, then attach to the head (Although, I think I first made the hat to ensure that the ears and the hat fit snugly together!)

^ Wizard hat:

To make a nice tall pointy hat, start with a tiny magic circle and increase less often than you would for a sphere:

  • 3 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 3x to make 6 stitches  
  • (2 sc, inc) 2x to make 8 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 4x to make 12 stitches
  • 1 row of 12 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 3x to make 15 stitches
  • 2 row of 15 stitches

Finally, to make the hat have an ever so slight flare at the bottom, I crocheted around it once more time in the front loops only, increasing every 1 or 2 stitches. This came out to 23 stitches, but this doesn’t have to be exact! 

Now, I arranged the hat, ears, and face on the head using pins, making sure I liked where everything sat in relationship to each other, and sewed it all together! Unfortunately when I sewed the face on, even though I tried to be careful, I didn’t really like the way it looked! Maybe using hot glue would have been the better option...

^ Making moon and stars for the hat

Here you can see all my gazillions of attempts at making even a moderately symmetric star... Ultimately I went with 5 stars and the moon. I used glue to attach them to the hat, since they were so tiny I think I would have had no chance at sewing them successfully.

^Robe/body:

 The bottom of the robe is just flat crochet (that is to say, there isn’t an “inside” of the robe where a body/feet would be). I don’t think that’s super necessary, although it helps him to stand. After making the base of the robe, you crochet in the back loops for a round to make a sharper transition to the vertical portion of the robe. 

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches  
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • 1 row of 30 sc in BACK LOOPS
  • (3 sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • 1 row of 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 1 row of 18 stitches
  • (4 sc, dec) 3x to make 15 stitches
  • (3 sc, dec) 3x to make 12 stitches
  • 1 row of 12 stitches
  • Leave a long tail, stuff body and sew body to head 

A nice little touch is his gold sash. I just used some goldenrod yarn and around the back, threaded it through a couple stitches to simulate some belt loops (really, just to prevent the sash from rolling up or sliding down), and then tied a nice tight bow in front.

^Sleeves and arms:

This bit is just a little confusing to put into a pattern, but the concept is fairly simple. starting with a circle of chains, crochet around the circle, increasing only on one side (which will become the “bottom” of the flared sleeve). 

Sleeves: 

  • chain 10
  • sc 10
  • 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc to make 12 stitches 
  • 4 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc to make 15 stitches 
  • then sc half way around, so the ending yarn is at the bottom of the sleeve
  • Tie off and secure the thread by sewing/pulling it through the sleeve

Arms:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • 2 rows of 6 sc
  • Stuff with a bit of yarn and tie off

Then, stuff these tiny crochet nubs inside the sleeve. I ended up sort of sewing the arms to the sleeves and then sewing the sleeves to the robe.

And there you have it! A tiny sweet Mickey perfect for coming on your Disney Vacation!! And for real, if you try this pattern and something doesn’t make sense, please feel free to ask me questions!

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Tahm Kench Pattern

Hey friends! I got a request to share my Tahm Kench pattern... I am sorry to admit, I crocheted this guy YEARS ago and in kind of a fugue state, so I don’t know how helpful my notes will be. But we can do our best! Seriously though, if you’re trying to use this pattern and have a question, please ask because I’m sure there is something I missed or was unclear with. And as usual, if anyone uses this pattern, please link back to my page, and tag me or send me a picture! I’d love to see what people make!

I used 3 mm crochet hook, and as I mentioned in my hummingbird pattern, don’t remember what kind of yarn I got, but it was pretty thin and shiny... and the other yarns were all I believe some kind of Red Heart scraps. Find what works for you!

^Head:

Ok, this is the hardest part I think, so if you get through this you’re golden. Here was my strategy for making the head! It’s pretty flat (not a lot of max-stitch rows), and I made a big gaping mouth that we’re gonna add the inside to later. I also want to make a note here, that since I was using such thin yarn I had to make my circumference pretty long (48 stitches), but I think with even a relatively non-thick yarn (for example, Red Heart Super Saver), that many stitches will make a MUCH larger product, so, adapt as you see fit...

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • (5 sc, inc) 6x to make 42 stitches
  • (6 sc, inc) 6x to make 48 stitches
  • 1 row of 48 stitches

Ok, here’s where it gets a little tricky: to make that wide open mouth, instread of crocheting into the loops I made a 20 stitch long foundation single crochet chain (it’s like a slightly fancier chain, it takes longer but looks cleaner and is harder to get twisted, I really like it!) then came back down to the existing circle and finished the last 28 single chains. This makes the top of the head and the bottom “lip”. 

^Finishing off the rest of the head:

  • 3 rows of 48 stitches
  • (6 sc, dec) 6x to make 42 stitches
  • (5 sc, dec) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • (4 sc, dec) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (3 sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (1 sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • finish off by decreasing, tie off end

Then I stuffed the head through the mouth! Here you can see me spectating some old school League as inspiration while I worked!

^Eyes:

I think it would have been cool if I had had some sort of safety eye that would have been more appropriate for TK, or one I could paint, but instead I opted to make his eyes from yarn. Pretty easy:

  •  With green yarn, 6 sc in a magic circle
  • Sew a single stitch with yellow yarn
  • Attach to the head

By the way, you can see here I was considering putting cardboard inside the mouth so the stuffing wouldn’t bulge out too much, but ultimately didn’t end up needing it.

^Inside of mouth

I have this lovely raspberry yarn that was absolutely scrap yarn from my grad school knitting circle’s stash and I love it and don’t know anything about it.  Anyway, for the mouth, I started doing a regular magic circle with increases UNTIL IT FIT INSIDE THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE LIPS. I used half double crochets which I think are much stretchier/squishier since ultimately it got pulled into a more oval shape. This will obviously change depending on the weight of the two yarns you’re using, so just take this as guidelines:

  • 6 hdc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 hdc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 hdc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches

Then tie off with a long tail, and sew inside the mouth, being careful not to show the red yarn through to the other side of the green.

^ Make tongue out of felt

Look at this gummy hilarious fellow! For the tongue, cut a shape that you like, and hot glue it deep inside the mouth! I went for a long licking tongue, and used a thin raspberry colored sharpie to add a bit of depth to it.

^Make teeth out of felt:

Same deal! Cut out tiny little triangles, glue them in! It looks like even though I was making the tongue and teeth at the same time, I glued the teeth in first? I don’t think it matters though.

^Make a tiny hat out of felt:

Haha, this was fun - I really just went by eye, making the hat out of three pieces of felt: A circle for the top, a strip for the side, and a doughnut for the brim. I added a bit of trim with the raspberry yarn and kept it on his head with a pin (to emulate the fish hook he has in this hat), although I imagine making a hook out of something else and using hot glue to attach the hat could work too. 

^Mustache: 

Now he’s starting to look like the River King - for the mustache I just made a 25 stitch chain, made sure both ends were secure (I think I used a dab of hot glue). then cut off the yarn ends. I sewed it on with thread just by catching a little bit of the fiber, then made his ring by tying a bit of gold yarn around it!

^Body and arms: 

Phew, were back to some good old crocheting. This bit is super straight forward. To make the body:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • (5 sc, inc) 6x to make 42 stitches
  • (5 sc, dec) 6x to make 36
  • 1 row of 36 stitches
  • (4 sc, dec) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (3 sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 2 rows of 18 stitches
  • Bind off and leave a long tail, stuff and attach to head

For the arms, I used two colors to indicate his... gauntlets?

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • switch to brown yarn, sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc to make 8 stitches
  • 1 row of 8 stitches
  • switch back to green, 2 rows of 8 stitches
  • Bind off leaving a tail, and sew onto the body

^Haunches, feet, tail: 

Since TK is so rotund and squat, I gave him little stubby little legs and haunches.

To make the haunches:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 1 row of 12 stitches
  • Bind off leaving a tail

To sew them on, I found it easiest to start attaching them low down on the body, then stuffing them slightly before closing the rest of the stitches

To make the feet:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • 2 rows of 6 stitches
  • Bind off leaving a short tail

To make these little flat feet, DON’T stuff them, instead press them flat, then sew them to the underside of the body so they just poke out under the haunches

To make the tail:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • (2 sc, inc) 2x to make 8 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 4x to make 12 stitches
  • 2 rows of 12 stitches

Sew on the back low down so it helps him to stand up!

^ Coat:

I remember this cool bit of lore from when Tahm was released - his coat is actually two coats stitched together because he’s... i guess too big for just one coat? He also has this smart looking vest and I made the facimile of these things by sewing the front panels slightly inside the back panels to that the back bits stick out.. Again, I was eyeballing this so that it actually FIT on his body, so if your yarn weights differ, this exact pattern may not work:

2 back panels with arm holes, navy yarn and tan yarn:

  • foundation sc 8x
  • Turn, hdc 3, chain 3 to make arm hole (skips over 3 stitches), 2 hdc
  • Turn, 8 hdc

Sew the two halves together after making sure that his arms fit through them and they meet snugly in the back

2 front panels, raspberry yarn:

  • foundation sc 4x
  • Turn, hdc 4
  • Turn, hdc 4

Sew them on to the back panels with a bit of the back panel sticking out, making sure it comes together in TK’s front snugly.

Sew the shirt shut with some goldenrod yarn!

* I made the very ghostliest hint of lapels by taking the tails of the raspberry yarn, weaving them up through the top center corners of the vest and then tugging them down and sewing the yarn into his body. It’s a small touch but nice I think?? 

And that’s him! Good luck Unbenching, again, please feel free to ask if you have any questions because this was a mess!

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Scalemate Pattern

Hi friends - I got a request to share my scalemate pattern! And.. because of the weirdness of tumblr messages, I don’t remember who! So I hope this makes it back to whatever fellow Homestuck fan requested it - let’s make some piles of plushies!  As usual, if anyone uses this pattern, please link back to my page, and also send me a picture! I’d love to see what people make! I want to see an army of scalemates!

I used a 3mm crochet hook, and Red Heart Super Saver yarn in “Spring Green”. I’m certain, however, that Homestuck fans will be keen to choose their own color and associated scalemate name scheme - for example, this little fella is named Rear Admiral Applebottom.

^Head:

This is definitely the hardest part of the scalemate! My idea for the head was to start with the snout and crochet out, instead of just making a round head and sewing a snout on - it makes the face smoother, but also gives you a bit of a surprise as to what the shape becomes when you stuff it - if it becomes too rounded, I just kind of smoosh more definition into the face?? The trick here, is that in one row, I put all the increases on one side of the circle so that it flares out into the forehead area.

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 3 rows of 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 1 row of 18 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x, then additional 6 sc to make 24 stitches
  • 1 row of 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • 5 rows of 36 stitches
  • (4 sc, dec) 6x to make 30 stitches

(At this point, you can perform this step I describe below before finishing closing off the head, but I truly don’t think it made much of a difference!)

  • (3sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches

Stuff the head, then finish closing

  • 1 sc, dec 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 6 dec to make 6 stitches
  • close off w more decreases

^ Optional Step

Here’s something that I tried, but didn’t seem to make too much of a difference and you can likely skip it if you want. I tried to make an indent where the eyes go by using a sewing needle and thread and catching a bit of the yarn where the eye should go, then pulling it in and tying a knot. In the end, this really didn’t make a difference in how the head looked, and I don’t even think it makes sense with the design of scalemates, so PLEASE feel free to skip this - I was mostly experimenting with new techniques!

^ Adding eyes:

These buttons came in a sewing repair kit that I picked up at some point in my life, but they were almost exactly the size of 12mm safety eyes! The one important thing to remember is that since you’re sewing eyes on rather than using safety eyes, they ARE less safe! Don’t let animals or small children chew them off!? Other than that, how exciting it is to be able to choose the eye color - I’m sure at craft stores there are lots of great color and style options!

Spikes and Tail:

Ok, this part is very straight forward! The one challenging thing is to start crocheting around that small (3 stitches) magic circle - I find that to give them a sharper point, I push my crochet hook into the spike to stretch it out before stuffing.

Small spikes (make 2)

  • 3 sc in a magic circle
  • (1 sc, inc) 3x to make 6 stitches
  • 2 rows of 6 stitches

medium spikes (make 2)

  • 3 sc in a magic circle
  • (1 sc, inc) 3x to make 6 stitches
  • 1 row of 6 stitches
  • (2sc, inc) 2x to make 8 stitches
  • 2 rows of 8 stitches

large spikes (make 3, use one for tail)

  • 3 sc in a magic circle
  • (1 sc, inc) 3x to make 6 stitches
  • , 1 row of 6 stitches
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 3 rows of 12 stitches

Leave a long tail of yarn at the end of each spike, stuff them, and sew them onto the head. I would recommend using pins to hold them in place so that I can make sure they go on as symmetrically as possible.

^ Body:

This body is super straight forward - I imagine that you can actually do color changes to make the tummy out of yarn, but I chose to make the tummy with felt - either one I’m sure will look fine!

  • 6 sc in a magic circle 
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches  
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • (3 sc, inc) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • (4 sc, inc) 6x to make 36 stitches
  • (4 sc, dec) 6x to make 30 stitches
  • 1 row of 30 stitches
  • (3 sc, dec) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • 2 rows of 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 4 rows of 18 stitches

Leave a long tail of yarn and sew the body onto the head after stuffing! And while you’re at it, sew that tail on as well! 

^ Legs:

I’m so happy with how these turned out - to make them, I started with a chain 6 (the bottom of the foot), and crocheted around it. Then again I did some uneven decreases to make sure that the bottom of the leg was flush with the ground while the foot was somewhat distinct from the leg. Again, when it comes to yarn work, some fudging and hand-shaping goes a long long way!

  • chain 6
  • sc around the chain to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches

With the decreases, the reason the decreases came in such a weird spot for me was that I wanted the 3 (or 2) decreases to happen OVER the TOP of the leg - so however it turns out for you, just make sure you’re not decreasing on the long end of the oval!!!!

  • 3 sc, dec 3x, finish with sc to make 15 stitches
  • 3 sc, dec 3x, finish with sc to make 12 stitches
  • 3 sc, dec 2x, finish with sc to make 10 stitches
  • 3 rows of 10 stitches

Leave a long tail on the legs and sew them on to the body! 

The final thing I added was a little white tummy, which I just cut from felt and sewed on. Of course, any color will work, this is just what I happened to have on hand as I made the Admiral relatively early on in my crochet career. 

And that’s all! I’m afraid I didn’t take great pictures while I was making him, so apologies for that. If you get stuck on something in the pattern or something is looking wrong, please feel free to message me. Other than that, this is all in all a fairly simple amigurumi, especially compared to the massive work of art that is Homestuck. Happy crocheting!

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Ewok Hood Pattern

Hello friends! I got a request for sharing this Ewok hood pattern, and heck, I can’t resist! It’s super easy, I’m always in favor of more Star Wars in the world, and I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before Disney releases a stand alone Ewok movie. (The joke is... there are already two!!) As per usual, if you make one, tag me! I’d love to see a pic or reblog your post. <3

For yarn, I used Red Heart Super Saver in Carrot and Coffee, and some fuzzy brown yarn that was gifted to me. I think color combos are very flexible though, as most Ewoks wear sort of earth tones. Even looking at Wicket’s hood in particular, I was really going back and forth on making something more of a gold-ish tan or brown. I also used 10 mm knitting needles and a 6.5 mm crochet hook, but I don’t think those specifications are necessary, as I’ll explain below!

The hood part is super straight forward: I just knitted the only thing I can, a long rectangle! Because I was in an hurry, I used huge knitting needles and a seed stitch (knit the purls and purl the knits). I cast on 29 and always began my row K1, P1 etc, and just worked as many rows I needed to get my desired length. BUT, I think there are any number of ways you could produce the hood: crochet, knit with smaller needles or different stitch etc. Here’s the approximate dimensions you should end up with:

Here’s my final rectangle, folded over (the crease is at the bottom of this picture, but it will be the top of the hood). It’s about 11 inches wide by 32 inches long. You can definitely make it longer if you want it to drape lower in the front. After you’ve folded it in half, sew 6 inches from the crease down (this closes the hood at the back of the head) and on the opposite side sew 4 inches (or as many as you need) from the bottom up (this makes the closure at the front where your face goes). Then turn this piece inside out so the stitches are inside!

Sorry the pictures for the ears are so shitty - I actually went through several versions before I landed on holding the brown Super Saver yarn and the fuzzy yarn together - crocheting with fuzzy yarn is so hard! The second strand gave it a bit more structure and made it easier to deal with. Here’s a very generic amigurumi ear pattern - make two, fold in half, and sew them onto the hood where you would like your ears to be:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 2 rows of 18 stitches

Here’s a quick view from the side/back. You can see how the fabric is sewn part way down the back, and then the sides drape down the front.

And that’s that! Happy costume making! Let me know if you have any questions, and let me see those cute but mighty teddy bears! Yub nub!

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Hi everyone!

I have entered a few of my amigurumis to this design contest run by amigurumipatterns.net! The voting just went live so if you are interested, please vote for my 4 entries (they populate randomly after the first, so just search “eringurumi” on the page) and then vote for 6 more because there are just so many other talented artists (and because you need to pick 10 for the vote to register)! Thanks! 

PS I am actually not sure when voting ends, but if it’s more than a week from when I posted this, the link may be already expired!

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Vel’koz from League of Legends Pattern

Hi all! I got a request for my Vel’koz pattern! I think of all my amigurumi, he’s one of the most unique designs, but I don’t actually think he’s that difficult! As usual, if anyone uses this pattern, please link back to my page, and also send me a picture! I’d love to see what people make!

I used a 3mm hook and Red Heart Super Saver yarns in “Pretty n Pink” (pink),  “Amethyst” (purple), and “Cornmeal” (yellow). For the maroon, I just used some scrap yarn, I’m not sure what it was. Sadly, it doesn’t look like I took as many in-progress pictures as might be ideal, but I’ll do my best to describe carefully what I did! Keep in mind what I’ve found to be the very best strategy for crochet: just kinda fudge it!!!

^Eyeball: 

When I made the eye, I actually had the “wrong side” of the crochet surface facing out. I think it makes it look a bit smoother and less “dimensional”, but it’s really just a style choice. I started with the maroon yarn and made a small simple sphere:

  • 6 sc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 stitches
  • (1 sc, inc) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • (2 sc, inc) 6x to make 24 stitches
  • 3 rows of 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches

Switch to pink for cornea, sc 18 in the back loops so that the cornea (hot pink) looks like it sits behind the sclera (maroon)

  • (1 sc, dec) 6x to make 12 stitches
  • 6 dec to make 6 stitches
  • close off w more decreases

After closing the eye and weaving in the end, I cut a small strip of light pink felt to make the pupil.

^Main Tentacle:

This first tentacle is slightly longer than the other two, and has a very sharp bend in it - part of the bend is created by increasing and decreasing on opposite sides of the tube, but a lot of bend can be created just by squashing the piece into your desired shape! (See my Sandworm pattern for another example of that)

  • chain 24, connect in a loop
  • 3 rows of 24 stitches
  • (2 sc, dec) 6x to make 18 stitches
  • 4 rows of 18 stitches, with 3 increases, on one side, 3 decreases on the other
  • 4 rows of 18 stitches, with 3 increases on the OPPOSITE side from previously, 3 decreases on the OPPOSITE side from previously
  • 8 more rows of purple, decreasing once in each row (over 8 rows, reduce from 18 stitches to 10 stitches)
  • 8 rows of pink, decreasing once each row (over 8 rows, go from 10 stitches to 2 stitches)
  • tie off and weave in end

Stuffing it is a bit strange, I think what I did is after I made a tube of it, I added stuffing in as I went, so that I was crocheting off a more stiff tube. I just sort of stopped it from squeezing out with my other hand. When the tentacle was finished, I decided which direction looked the best and sewed it to the eyeball.

^Front tentacles (make 2):

For these tentacles, I crocheted in the backloops for the first 9ish rounds so there would be an easy way to attach his shoulder armor stuff (I think i didn’t add those until later in the project, but for clarity’s sake I’ll put them in the pattern here!) I would actually recommend only crocheting in the backloops for maybe the first 5 rounds, as for me they make the stitches much looser and I had more stuffing peaking out than I would like. Again, as with the first tentacle, I stuffed as I went.

  • chain 18, connect in a loop
  • 4 rows of 18 stitches, with 3 increases, on one side, 3 decreases on the other IN THE BACK LOOPS!!
  • 4 rows of 18 stitches, with 3 increases on the OPPOSITE side from previously, 3 decreases on the OPPOSITE side from previously (FIRST ROW IN BACK LOOPS)
  • 8 more rows of purple, decreasing once in each row (over 8 rows, reduce from 18 stitches to 10 stitches)
  • 8 rows of pink, decreasing once each row (over 8 rows, go from 10 stitches to 2 stitches
  • tie off and weave in end

Again, attach to body by sewing them on after deciding which direction you want them to face - I really have to stress that most of the shape they have can be put in by just smooshing the tube in whatever direction you want! Sew on the arms so that they face whatever direction you like - Vel’koz is a dang wiggly tentacle monster.

^Shoulder armor (this pic has the carapaces already attached, please just ignore!)

Once the two arms are attached to the body (so you know which side is the front and which is the back), start in the underside of the arm about two rows down and tie in a pit of the yellow (cornmeal) yarn to the loops you made by crocheting in the back loop. Single crochet once into each loop, making sure you’re going in the direction that spirals down the arm. When you get to the top of the arm (whichever side is facing out) do a picot stitch: chain out 3 and then single crochet again in the same loop.

^ Carapaces: Vel’koz looks pretty goofy without his... what I was calling carapaces, although I don’t know if that’s the right term for them! I made 6 of these, from three patterns. All of them are made using the cornmeal yarn. (PS, sorry, I hadn’t sewn on the shoulder armor at this point! it can be done whenever, I just kept in with the arms for clarity). They are all basically elongated tube shapes that have been squashed flat.

Large Top Carapace/Bottom Carapace (make two): 

  • 6 dc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 dc stitches 
  • decrease 1 (11 dc)
  • decrease 6x evenly (5 dc)
  • decrease 2x evenly (3 dc)
  • keep decreasing until it closes off 

Small Top Carapaces (make two): - similar to the large ones, but using half double crochets instead of double crochets

  • 6 hdc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 hdc stitches
  • decrease 1 (11 hdc)
  • decrease 6x evenly (5 dc)decrease 2x evenly (3 dc)keep decreasing until it closes off 

Large Side Carapaces (make two):

  • 6 dc in a magic circle
  • inc 6x to make 12 dc stitches
  • decrease 1 (11 dc)
  • decrease 6x evenly (5 dc)
  • decrease 2x ON ONE SIDE (3 dc) - this is what gives the side carapaces a bit of a curve. When you attach it, make sure it’s flattened so that it has a bit of a swoop upward
  • keep decreasing until it closes off

To attach the carapaces, I first attached them all together with their loose ends. It was all very mess, but essentially, I used a tapestry needle to sew the yarn through the inside of the tube shapes and connect them where it looked right. Then, I used thread (not yarn) to sew the underside of the yellow pieces onto the eyeball in a kinda haphazard way - it’s all hidden anyway, was my reasoning >_>.  For the bottom carapace piece, it often drooped down, so I used a pin to keep it up (sewing it to the body at the tip would also make a lot of sense).

Small eyes (make three):

Of course, what would Vel’koz be without his other eyeballs? Why, he’d just be one big eyeball with tentacles, how droll! These were super simple.

  • sc 4 in magic circle, pull tightly so that they pull tightly 

To attach them, I just secured both ends through the large and small top carapace pieces, then tied them on the other side. Note that I’m pretty sure I did this BEFORE I attached the carapaces to his head, but I suspect it wouldn’t be impossible to do them last, especially if you wanted to use hot glue or fabric glue to secure them.

And that is it for Vel’koz! He’s certainly an odd amigurmi, but overall I don’t think he’s too difficult to put together! As I mentioned, my notes and progress pictures were just not as thorough as one might hope, so please feel free to ask me questions if something in the pattern doesn’t make sense (it is almost certainly my own failing!). If you do end up making him, please share a pic because I’d love to see your work! Thank you for your contribution! ;D

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Anonymous asked:

Hi! :) I don't have tumblr profile and I can't figure out how else to comment Haha. But I really liked your jumping spider and I crocheted my own! I added pipe cleaners to the legs to make them a bit bendable and otherwise stiched them to the body. Anyway! Thanks for the pattern. Cheers, Pil. PS I posted some pictures on instagram @pilrasmussen (can't link here)

O wow!! Your spider turned out adorable, and using pipe cleaners is a great idea - it’s like it’s doing that crazy jumping spider mating dance! I hope it’s ok if I link to the picture here; it seems to work in the answers. Thanks so much for sharing with me! ^_^

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