It's FRIDAY FASHION FACT! As Halloween approaches, costume parties seem to be happening all over the place. So this seems like the perfect time to talk about one of the most famous costume parties in history: The Duchess of Devonshire's Diamond Jubilee Ball.
In the summer of 1897, the nation was celebrating Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, 60 years on the throne. At the time, this was the longest reign by a monarch in British history (A few years ago, Queen Elizabeth II became the second British monarch to reach this milestone, surpassing Victoria's full reign a just few months ago.) Louisa Cavendish, the Duchess of Devonshire, was well known in society. Before marrying the Duke of Devonshire, she had been married to the Duke of Manchester, causing her to commonly be referred to as "The Double Duchess." When she was a young woman in the late 1850s, she was appointed to the highly respected position of Mistress of the Robes, giving her influence over the Queen's household. She became very close to the the Queen at this time, and though it is rumored that Victoria became less fond of the Duchess in later years, the Duchess remained close with several members of the royal family.
It was only natural, then, that she would throw one of the most lavish Jubilee celebrations. On July 2nd, all of society's elite flocked to the grand Devonshire House. It is rumored that up to 3,000 princes, countesses, lords, and other nobility from far and wide attended the event, though that number is likely exaggerated as only 700 invitations were sent. Even the Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII, and the Duke of York, the future King George V, attended. While it was always expected that guests would "dress to impress" at such an occasion, the expectation was taken up a level, as the soiree was declared a fancy dress (aka costume) ball. All the attendants were asked to dress as members of famed royal courts, whether foreign, ancient, or mythological. Of course, not everyone followed the guideline exactly, many guests taking inspiration from classical art instead. Yet all took great care, and money, in ensuring their costumes were flawless.
Top couturiers, including the legendary Jean-Philippe Worth (son of Charles) were hired to create elaborate costumes, often encrusted in fine gems, and intricately embroidered with precious metals. Seamstresses worked tirelessly to fill the demand. More money was spent on some of these ensembles, which were only worn once, than many people at the time made in a year. These efforts did not go unnoticed, though. The Duchess had a temporary photography studio set up at the ball to memorialize all of the elaborate looks. Of course, with so many guests (and the fact that at the time, one had to sit still for over a full minute for a clear photo) not all were photographed. Several gentlemen specifically avoided it, as they did not want to be seen as "foolish." Sadly, many of the images were lost over the years, with about 200 surviving. Even so, it is incredibly rare for so many images from a single event to exist from the late 19th Century. It was well known that the photos would be published after the event, so several guests returned to the photographer in costume during the following months if they were not satisfied with their original portrait.
The photos were printed on cards and sold to the masses, not an uncommon practice at the time. Yet the prints were not available for some time after the event, and naturally no one wanted to wait so long to learn the details of the event of the season. Luckily, the press was all over it. The very next day, the papers were filled with every minute detail of the party, complete with sketches of some of many of the costumes. The buzz about the event remained for some time after, and thanks to the beautiful images that remain, we can continue to fawn over the incredible looks today!
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