Jade Knotted Dragon Pendant, 3rd century B.C. (Eastern Zhou Dynasty, Warring States Period)
via Met Museum
Gold, Enamel and Gem-Set Bracelet, ca. 1840
Center painting depicts Mercury giving a lyre to Apollo.
via Bonhams
Velvet Brocade and Iron Purse, ca. late 15th Century
via The Met
Old Mine Cut Diamond Spiral Pendant Earrings, ca. 1880
via Fred Leighton
Welcome back to FRIDAY FASHION FACT! Today we’re talking about what is very likely the most useful piece of fashion ever created- glasses! Of course, when they were first created, glasses were strictly created for practical purposes, but when something is worn so prominently, it doesn’t take long for style to be added.
It is unclear exactly when glasses were invented, and by whom. In ancient days, multiple cultures used polished crystals like a magnifying glass. By the Middle Ages, glass-work had advanced so that it was able to be formed into a curve, creating magnifying glasses as we know today. The earliest glasses were simply two magnifying glasses connected at the handles by a rivet, so that the lenses could be adjusted to pinch the nose. They had no handle or earpieces, and thus were held in place by hand. This lasted for centuries. The first record of glasses in the western world were mentioned by Friar Giordano da Pisa in 1306, when he stated that eyeglasses had been invented less than twenty years prior.
In Asia, glasses were introduced by Westerners in the early 15th Century, but developed from there. They added loops of cord to the lenses which hooked around the ears to hold them in place, a trend possibly introduced by the Spanish. In the 17th Century, the arched piece connecting lenses over the bridge of the nose became popular across the globe, making the adjustable rivet obsolete. Glasses continued to be held, though, until the early 18th Century. London optician Edward Scarlett was the first to add arms to glasses which rested on top of the ears. Around the same time, it became common to add handles to the side of glasses. These handled glasses, known as lorgnettes, were often very decorative and fashionable. The handle would also commonly double as a case, so they could flip open and closed. Handled glasses remained popular until World War I, when lifestyles changed and they became impractical.
At the start, glasses were only used by artisans and religious scholars. As the years progressed, wearing glasses became something of a status symbol. It showed that a person had both the time and wealth to dedicate to studies. Also, manual labor jobs were not believed to need perfect vision, while arts and writing did require it. This is why so much of the upper class carried lenses, even if they were not necessary. Lenses would even be hidden in the handles of ladies’ fans, or the knob of gentlemen’s walking sticks. The status of glasses is also what gave rise to the monocle in the Victorian Age, which were popular among wealthy men.
When handled eyeglasses fell from style, so did the status associated with them. The association with scholarly pursuits remained, though, and still lingers to this day. Of course, technology has had a huge impact on how the style of glasses has developed, and likely always will. While today glasses are often thought of as “nerdy,” it is that association with higher education which led to their popularity. Just like most trends, glasses have gone in and out of fashion over the last century, and this fluctuating trend is sure to continue.
Want to learn more about glasses? Check out these books:
Fashions In Eyeglasses: From the Fourteenth Century to the Present Day, by Richard Corson
Eyewear: Gli Occhiali, by Franca Acerenza
Have a question about fashion history that you want answered in the next FRIDAY FASHION FACT? Just click the ASK button at the top of the page!
Day Dress Appliqued with Classical Motifs, ca. 1890s
Motifs taken from textiles designed by Jean-Baptiste Marie Huet, the Elder, ca. late 18th- early 19th cent.
Jeanne Paquin
via FAMSF
Wing Sleeved Wool Coat with Fur Trim, ca. 1910-20
Diamond and Platinum Necklace, ca. 1905
Open Face Pocket Watch, 19th Century
via Bonhams
Sundial and Compass Ring, ca. 16th Century
via Bonhams
Metal Handbag, ca. 1300
Made in Northern Iraq, it is thought to be the world's oldest surviving handbag. Inlaid with gold and silver scenes depicting Mongol court life.