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Pumpernickel Dreams

@backsideofwater / backsideofwater.tumblr.com

You can only get to Neverland if you believe you can fly.
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I am a lucky sort of person for many reasons. One of these reasons is the fact that I have people willing to get on a plane to travel halfway around the world to see me. It is for this reason that I left the town of Franz Josef to go to the Christchurch airport.

This solo road trip was one of the longer ones, up north and through Arthur’s Pass. I listened to a lot of folk music with my windows down. I passed by a lot of sights I probably should have stopped to see. I peed in a bathroom next to a rural tennis court.

Christchurch is the town that everyone says is, “Meh!” Prior to the 2011 earthquake that destroyed many of the historic buildings, people would never have called Christchurch “Meh!” Perhaps the reason for this opinion lies in the massive amounts of construction that still going on. I was there for perhaps 16 hours in total. I ate loaded potato wedges and beer with the Israeli guys there. In those hours I became an expert, and I say that Christchurch is a pretty solid “O.K.!”

The next morning was an exciting one for me. You see, Becca is my roommate and my pal, and she was arriving to see me and to embark on a 2 week adventure together. Becca and I laugh a lot. We are like two peas in a pod, or like two characters from Thelma and Louise: she is Louise, and I am the car they drive off the cliff in the end of the movie.

Becca arrived at the airport wearing hiking boots and socks pulled up high. She commented on my multitude of freckles. I commented on her camp counselor attire. She claimed her outfit was done for packing practicality reasons. I claimed that my face was the way it is because freckles are tiny angel kisses, and New Zealand has a lot of angels.

This road trip was a little different from the other ones. I was not alone, which meant that I was talking to a person, instead of myself. The time passed quickly. I tell you, when you are away for 2+ months from someone that you normally see every single day, there is always plenty to talk about. By the time we arrived at Lake Tekapo we were wind-blown and sun-warmed and eager to jump into a glacial lake. So we did.

Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo shores, a tiny church, and a selkie.

Lake Tekapo and the neighboring lake, Pukaki, are known for their incredible blue colors. Tekapo’s got a turquoise theme going on, like the color of your grandmother’s antique Native American jewelry. Pukaki is similar, but more vibrant and with a chalkier quality. Science says the lakes are that color because of glacial sediment. They are freak-of-nature lakes, and photos will not really do them justice.

Becca and I stayed in a person’s house in Tekapo. We ate muesli for breakfast (and dessert) and made greek salad. We washed our dishes in a bathroom sink and nearly lost our only hats on top of a windy mountain during a hike.

Tekapo hike

View from the observatory

Nearly lost the hat.

One of our days in the area we drove to Mt. Taranaki (Mt. Cook) and Lake Pukaki. Now, Taranaki Park expresses the power of nature. That place makes one feel very small. On our way down the Hooker Valley Track (not what it sounds like) we were surrounded by flowers and plants of all kinds. Streams of crystal clear water trickled through the grasses, a stark contrast to the terrifyingly swift, chalk grey river coursing down from the glacial lake. The mountaintops were covered in glaciers, shadowed with blue in the sunlight so that they almost looked fake. During the walk back a piece of the glacier cascaded down behind a mountain side with a soft roar and a cloud of snow. The hanging bridges over the river swayed slightly in the very strong winds. We did not pee our pants but that is not to say we didn’t feel the need to.

For lunch we ate at a cafe in the valley that did not have a clear entryway. We walked through the nature center, down some stairs, up some stairs, and eventually jumped a row of hedges. As I sat there poking at the innards of my pork pie (should have ordered the grilled cheese) I felt glad to have my pal there to share this pretty place with. It was like a vacation from my vacation. Traveling alone is exhilarating, but you can’t deny the comfort and benefit of a familiar face.

And oh! What travels were to be had! From the lovely lakes we’d venture on to Mt. Sunday, the filming location for Edoras in the LotR trilogy! And then to seal-speckled Kaikoura! And on even further to green-watered Abel Tasman! And then, with my good ol’ chum Rebecca by my side, eventually I’d say goodbye to the South Island for good.

They were two weeks of fun that passed by pretty quickly. But more on that soon.

  Step Twenty: In Which I Receive A Visitor I am a lucky sort of person for many reasons. One of these reasons is the fact that I have people willing to get on a plane to travel halfway around the world to see me. 

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