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#fashion – @aph-japan on Tumblr

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@aph-japan / aph-japan.tumblr.com

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reblogged

Something like this would be so colossally helpful. I'm sick and tired of trying to research specific clothing from any given culture and being met with either racist stereotypical costumes worn by yt people or ai generated garbage nonsense, and trying to be hyper specific with searches yields fuck all. Like I generally just cannot trust the legitimacy of most search results at this point. It's extremely frustrating. If there are good resources for this then they're buried deep under all the other bullshit, and idk where to start looking.

>:)c

May I present to you, nationalclothing.org?

It doesn't have everything, but it's still my first source when researching traditional clothing from other cultures.

There's also this resource on historical fashion: Claire’s Historical Fashion Reference & Resources

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zheida

another addition as far as physical media goes there is the encyclopedia of national dress (that i still need to buy myself bc this kind of thing is super important to my sort of fantasy designing) but yes i do agree i wish there was EVEN MORE documentation on this

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waheedawolf

here are some resources for Indian clothing archives:

Purushu Arie's blog; started when he was studying at NIFT, the blogger has gone on to become a leader in the neo-traditional fashion scene in India.

if anyone knows more please add links !

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kira-ouji

Intro to Ouji

Ouji is a Japanese fashion style that is typically thought of as the masculine counterpart of lolita fashion. Ouji is not a sub-style of lolita, but a fully-fledged fashion in its own right. It would be more accurate to think of ouji as the brother-style of lolita fashion, or the “prince” to lolita’s “princess,” since “ouji” is the Japanese word for “prince.”

The elements of a typical ouji outfit are: pants, a blouse, a jacket/vest, socks, shoes, and optionally a hat. When putting together an ouji coordinate, these pieces should be combined to create a look that is boyish yet elegant. Despite being a “masculine” fashion, this style can be worn by anyone, regardless of gender.

Ouji can be worn in a variety of substyles and themes. It’s three main substyles are the same as lolita’s: sweet, classic, and gothic. However, the substyles in this fashion are not nearly as well-defined, and there is significantly more overlap between styles. Additionally, color is much less important when determining which sub-style an ouji coordinate falls into, since black is quite common across them all. Instead the cut/shape of each garment, and the overall styling of the coordinate typically determine which category it falls into. Sweet ouji has a cute, frilly look, classic is more refined and elegant, and gothic has an overall darker look, usually featuring sharp, crisp lines. A number of other sub-styles, such as punk, exist but are much less common. When trying to determine which substyle a coordinate falls into, keep in mind that black is not automatically gothic, and sweet does not have to be pastel.

Sweet Ouji:

Classic Ouji:

Gothic Ouji:

Common themes include pirate, military, school, and royalty.

Many well-known lolita brands also carry ouji items. Alice and the Pirates, Atelier Boz, and Metamorphose temps de fille are among the most popular. Even Angelic Pretty has been known to carry ouji items in the past. Many Taobao brands, and several western indie brands create ouji pieces as well.

Finally, while you may occasionally hear ouji fashion referred to as “kodonna,” please note that this term is not correct. “Kodonna” is a combination of the Japanese words for “child” (kodomo) and “adult” (otona), and was once used by a member of the visual kei band, The Plastic Trees, to describe his personal style in an interview with a Japanese magazine. When this interview made its way to the west, a number of people were confused by his comments and believed he was referring to ouji. The fashion style has never been referred to as “kodonna” in Japan, and these days, the term is disliked by most who participate in the fashion.

#gnc tag#fashion#japanese fashion#ouji#ouji kei#clothing#japanese brands#alice and the pirates#metamorphose#gothic#gothic kei#angelic pretty#japanese#japan#(OK for the sake of Not Feeling Like I Imagined All of This despite having active Japanese fashion tags since long before 2k15 here)#(as in Knowledge I Knew Even before 2k15 Happened)#(I am rbng some old Jfashion info posts from my other blog archives)#(Hopefully people have long-followed close enough you can Get what these things are Actually Talking About by now but Yes)#(and not come up with *Wildly Inaccurate Assumptions Otherwise* or the like y'knO----)#(AKA : I had some Ouji branded pieces before and now I'm seriously thinking I need to get them organized and Out of the back of my closet)#(I wasn't sure how to)#coordinate#(them before because I didn't have as many of the long capes as seen here hhha but I have a COUPLE by now I Think they came in sETS)#(*Secondhand sets* FYI {again everything I had back then was from before 2k15} B u t)#(SO LIKE I Might As Well Start USING tHE--- {but specifically I liked seeing the styles in the last few photos})#the dream#(and yeah tbh iT DOESNT MAKE SENSE... TO TAG OUJI AS... {OTHER NAME ONLY} WHEN ITS *OUJI KEI*... Y E AAAA ANYWAY)#(Buttcapes blog and wardrobe posts as a whole are honestly fantastic and how i learnt a lot about gothic kei in general HIGHLY rec)#({Also but omggg I was confused about the 'Kodon{n}aTM' term for SO LONG and im so grateful this was finally clarified but that was bc})#({I was confused bc} {OTHER PPL kept using it that way EVERYWHERE I WAS LOOKING} {despite having an idea of this info})
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darkhei-noam
Anonymous asked:

hey, jw - do you know anything about traditional ways north african and especially moroccan jews used to do their hair?

Yeah! This is a big topic and the answer is basically “it depends where and when…” Traditional hairstyles and head-coverings differed greatly between single and married women (I assume you’re talking about women), between rural and urban areas, and between the pre-colonial and (post-)colonial periods.

In general, young women kept their hair covered with a simple scarf, and/or sometimes braided (as in this photo from Ksar-es-Suq / Er-Rachidia, 1946). In rural areas, married women wore various types of headdresses, some quite elaborate, which differed from region to region. Some examples (with great explanatory posts from my friend Maya):

  • the mehdor, a kind of wide headband of silver wire and fabric, worn in central Morocco
  • the grun (”horns”), a coiled horizontal headdress covered with cloth, worn in the southern Atlas Mountains
  • the sarma, a tall conical headdress of cut metal, worn in coastal Algeria (there’s a similar type of headdress, more pointed, worn in Tunisia)

Above: Two married Jewish girls, Erfoud, ca. 1935 (photo by Jean Besancenot) — the girl on the left is wearing the grun headdress.

One great source for you is Jean Besancenot’s 1940 book Costumes du Maroc (it was reprinted in 1988 and can be found or requested in most libraries)… He spent several years in the late 1930s documenting clothing and jewelry styles with photographs and drawings, and had a strong focus on Jewish communities. You can actually see some of his original negatives of Moroccan Jews here (just scroll over for the flipped positive version).

Above: A young Jewish woman from Tinghir (Todgha valley, Atlas), wearing a headdress of woven hair covered with a coin-diadem known as a sfifa. Photo by Besancenot, ca. 1934-9.

Another wonderful book about Moroccan hairstyles, again with many historical photos from both Jewish and non-Jewish communities, is Mireille Morin-Barde’s book Coiffures féminines du Maroc: au sud du Haut Atlas.

In rural areas, these complex traditional headdresses lasted well into the 20th century. In more urban areas, the influence of French and other European fashions meant that by the 19th century, Jewish women had adopted simple colourful scarves, as seen in many of the Orientalist paintings of Jewish women by Delacroix and others.

Above: Jewish Woman in Tangiers, 1886, painted by Emile Vernet-Lecomte.

By the 20th century, many of the Jews in the large urban centres of Fes, Casablanca, Rabat, etc. had adopted European fashion to the extent that women usually wore their hair in French styles without any covering at all, as you can see in this photo from the 50s or 60s — the bride is wearing a traditional headdress as part of the keswa el-kbira, but the other women have short uncovered hair in a European style. 

Hope this helps point you in good directions — good luck researching!

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alzerin

OBSESSED with the fact that buttons got so popular in England during the 13th century that they had to pass laws limiting how many buttons you were allowed to put on a garment. They really had to bring in the government to shut down the button mania. Buttons are the sexiest clothing fastener.

yesss! and I remember reading in fashion history class that some women sewed Too Many buttons on their garments but argued their way out of the fines because the extra buttons had no matching buttonholes so OBVIOUSLY they weren't actually functional buttons but beads!

I found the source again! The first-hand account is actually set in Florence in the 1300s (a little later than the 13th century and not England) but there too women would flagantly flaunt the sumptuary laws regarding, among other things, buttons and how many were suitable. Italy too said NAY BUTTONS ART TOO SEXY FOR THE MASSES.

Here is a snippet from Il Trecentonovelle by Franco Sacchetti translated into English:

Then he goeth farther and meeteth a woman wearing many buttons in front of her dress; he saith to her, 'Ye cannot wear those buttons,' and she answereth, ‘Yes, Messere, I can, for these are not buttons, they are beads, and if ye do not believe me, look at them; they have no hanks, neither have they any button-holes.'

Sources: 1, 2

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dduane

There's no end to the hilarious folly of sumptuary laws and the endless (even more hilarious) ways that people found around them. :)

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im a bad person who thinks bad thoughts like ‘ew what is that girl wearing’ and then remember that im supposed to be positive about all things and then think ‘no she can wear what she wants, fuck what other people say damn girl u look fabulous’ and im just a teeny bit hypocritical tbh

I was always taught by my mother, That the first thought that goes through your mind is what you have been conditioned to think. What you think next defines who you are.

READ THIS THEN READ IT AGAIN

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dr-gloom

i havent seen this post in like 3 years but i was telling the bolded bit to a coworker the other night

this is fate

this is the one post that’s stuck with me through my entire time on this site

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spytap

I remind myself of this a lot.

I saw this post once when I was younger and it has stuck with me ever since, and I’ve taken it with me through my thought process for years now

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