A Lovely Way to Spend an Evening

Like a customized Swiss Army knife, a chatelaine provided its wearer with exactly the tools she needed closest at hand. For an avid seamstress, that might include a needle case, thimble, and tape measure, while for an active nurse it might mean a thermometer and safety pins. Inspired by the complex key rings carried by “la chatelaine,” the female head of a grand French estate, these beautiful, little contraptions were as fashionable as they were practical. In fact, their design was sometimes so trendy that style trumped usefulness.

Top: From left to right, this elaborate Art Nouveau needlework set includes a tape measure, strawberry-shaped emery for sharpening needles, needle book containing flannel pages to hold needles, scissors in scabbard, acorn-shaped vinaigrette, thimble holder, and heart-shaped pinwheel. Above: This tintype captures a woman wearing a chatelaine similar to the Tiffany piece at right, circa 1870s, which includes a combination perfume bottle and vinaigrette, left, and notebook with pencil.

Left, this “Faith, Hope, and Charity” chatelaine may have been a mourning piece, as it contained a romantic quote by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. Right, two sporting-themed chatelaines featuring dog’s head medallions.

Left, a variety of chatelaines designed to carry spectacles. Right, this cabinet card image, circa 1885, shows a nurse in uniform wearing a long chatelaine with a pinwheel and scissors. In her hand she holds a watch, which hangs from her neck on a black ribbon guard chain.

Left, this chatelaine is made from intaglio seals ending with a key and agate-cameo locket. Right, the chatelaine as it would have been worn on a period dress.

• Courtesy of the Burton Historical Collection, Detroit Public Library